Steeda Alignment Dowels -- Alignment

[AAD Performance]

this makes me want to avoid the mustang....

The mustang is the better of the three when it comes to factory rear cradle alignment

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[galaxy]

OP, if the alignment dowels don't slide in, your car is already out of alignment. These dowels fix that. Add to that you should probably add the subframe bushing supports and do it all at the same time to really lock in the rear of the car to the body.

The main reason to put these in is to get a better connected rear end feel for the track. They are on my list of "to do's" as a certain poster has pointed out in the CAMC thread. Honestly if I was street driving only, I wouldn't worry about having them installed.

Just know I completely agree with everything you said, but to clarify, wouldn't it be more accureate if this statement was if the alignment dowels don't slide in, your car subrame is not centered?

I would argue the subframe could not be perfectly centered, but a good/normal alignment could still be achieved, no?

That's also why I asked my second question (post #2), as like you, want to do a couple additional things...and agree at the same time would be ideal.

 

[DRKHORS]

I recommend using some ratchet straps tied between the IRS and chassis points to help move the IRS and hold it where you need it to get the alignment dowels in and the IRS bolted back up. Makes the chore much easier when it's one person working with the car on jack stands.

 

[Some Random Guy]

HF scissor transmission jack makes this super easy. We fought my buddy’s subframe the whole time and stripped a few threads trying to do it by hand. Granted, we had to completely remove it because of snapped diff bolts. The second time we used my scissor jack and everything went in by hand using just a socket (no ratchet). Pure hand tighten at that point until we busted out the torque wrench.

 

[WItoTX]

Just know I completely agree with everything you said, but to clarify, wouldn't it be more accureate if this statement was if the alignment dowels don't slide in, your car subrame is not centered?

I would argue the subframe could not be perfectly centered, but a good/normal alignment could still be achieved, no?

That's also why I asked my second question (post #2), as like you, want to do a couple additional things...and agree at the same time would be ideal.

I don't think you are wrong. The nuance is, if you have your camber and/or toe cranked to the limit to account for the crooked subframe, you have limited your adjustability. And although its probably minuet, your geometry changes on your suspension. Again, not a big deal on the street. But it in a track setting it could be a giant pain and could have adverse handling effects.

 

[galaxy]

Welp, it appears my car was built on a Wednesday. I did one bolt at a time (the other three always remained torqued in place) and the sleeve and the bolt went straight back in. Everything was aligned perfectly. Did subframe braces at the same time and same story. All three points on the brace aligned perfectly and nothing had to be cranked into place.
So yes, it can be done, and quite easily.

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