Spring spacers, results may vary.

[armykyle1 [HACKED ACCOUNT]

I just finished installing steeda adjustable upper control arms and 1/4" spring spacers. Initial impressions are the there's noticeably less flex and wiggle in the ass end. The ride is a tad more harsh. Which was to be expected, but no additional road noise. I did a quick hit from 10mph and the car spun a lot and spun good in the 1/2 shift but tracked perfectly straight. Typically it would wiggle enough on the shift to make me nervous. Overall, the control arms are great. However, the spring spacers... 1/4" was supposed to raise the car a 1/2" but looks to be closer to 1/4". The camber is really close to what it was before the control arm install but a tad more negative. I really needed that 1/2" raise and I may have to order the 3/8" spacers or just put the stock springs back in. Which I really don't want to do because I'd like to keep the slightly higher rates of the mag ride lowering springs. But rubbing isn't good. If I was running stock camber specs it'd be fine. But I'm trying to stay close to zero.

I know my setup isn't common or if anyone is trying to run this big of tire on 20s (315 35 20 nt555r2). I also plan on running a relatively tall and wide tire on a dedicated drag setup. This is just to help inform other people not knocking a product. Maybe steeda has a better solution for my situation.

Picture is

before and after.

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[blind*guardian]

I used a 3/8" Steeda spacer in the rear and it pretty much raised it 3/4" for me, so seemed to work ok for me. I think your height is pretty good, so I would just adjust the camber just a bit to make sure you don't rub.

 

[armykyle1 [HACKED ACCOUNT]

I used a 3/8" Steeda spacer in the rear and it pretty much raised it 3/4" for me, so seemed to work ok for me. I think your height is pretty good, so I would just adjust the camber just a bit to make sure you don't rub.

Keeping the camber 0. Straight line life.

 

[blind*guardian]

Yeah, I'm not sure about my tire life yet. I just got an alignment in the rear and I'm at -2, but I don't have adjustable camber arms, so will just need to see how the tires are affected.

 

[NTXChris]

Dumb question; after installing the spacers, did you loosen and retorque all rear suspension pivot points? There could be some bushing bind keeping you from realizing the full benefit of the spacers.

 

[armykyle1 [HACKED ACCOUNT]

Dumb question; after installing the spacers, did you loosen and retorque all rear suspension pivot points? There could be some bushing bind keeping you from realizing the full benefit of the spacers.

Yes. I pull the car on ramps and "clock" the bushings

 

[TeeLew]

Yeah, I'm not sure about my tire life yet. I just got an alignment in the rear and I'm at -2, but I don't have adjustable camber arms, so will just need to see how the tires are affected.

You don't need adjustable arms to adjust rear camber. There is plenty of adjustment stock.

 

[shogun32]

Keeping the camber 0. Straight line life.

ok, but have you checked squat during power? You could easily have the fender digging into the tire instead of being able to compress further and get more weight over the axle. I would take any wheel spacers out if you have some.

You have a lot of bulge so you have a wide tire on a (too?) narrow rim...

 

[shogun32]

I just got an alignment in the rear and I'm at -2

that's a LOT. 1.5 +/- 0.2 is a better number.

 

[Brian@BMVK]

that's a LOT. 1.5 +/- 0.2 is a better number.

-2 is fine (and recommended) for performance usage. Agreed on -1.5 for street driving.

 

[blind*guardian]

Thanks for the feedback. Will need to check with the alignment shop that I used as I thought that rear camber was not adjustable. Will probably try to get closer to -1.5

 

[TeeLew]

Thanks for the feedback. Will need to check with the alignment shop that I used as I thought that rear camber was not adjustable. Will probably try to get closer to -1.5

The chassis side of the upper lateral link is a bolt in a slot. They can adjust camber by loosening a single bolt. Most will try to convince you it's not adjustable to save themselves the effort. Toe will need to be reset after the camber adjustment.

 

[armykyle1 [HACKED ACCOUNT]

You don't need adjustable arms to adjust rear camber. There is plenty of adjustment stock.

Yea and the stock camber adjustment is trash.

 

[armykyle1 [HACKED ACCOUNT]

ok, but have you checked squat during power? You could easily have the fender digging into the tire instead of being able to compress further and get more weight over the axle. I would take any wheel spacers out if you have some.

You have a lot of bulge so you have a wide tire on a (too?) narrow rim...

Why would I be running wheel spacers if I already have clearance issues? An 11" wide wheel is fine for a 315 tire. The tires are a tad oversized compared to others. These are drag radials.

It rubs the fender a tad over large bumps or bridges in normal mode. Sport+ since the suspension is more firm.

I might just get some GT350R springs.

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