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Spare tire subwoofer

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69mach1-395

69mach1-395

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Thanks StangTime. I'll get 16' since I have some good ground cable.
I plan to have enough slack so that if I need the spare, I can move the sub forward and to the right so it will be out of the way.
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69mach1-395

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Wiring is not cup of tea for sure. I'm glad it's almost over...lol

First result...not much better than before. I'm thinking that using the old subs crossed over wires for high level input signal might be the cause. I even ran 2 wires each for + and - to match the subs input scheme. Maybe not enough input voltage and/or double crossover is happening. The output is not what I hoped for so I guess I have to use the rear speakers for high level input.

I know I've seen it recently, but can someone quickly provide the rear speakers wire colors if it's not obvious which ones to use? I guess 2015-17 with the shaker system are all the same.
 

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You ever thought that it might be the sub itself that, due to physics, cannot be much better than the already choking stock subwoofer?
I mean, how much volume has that spare tire enclosure for that 12" woofer and how much power does the amp have?
Read all you can about Hoffmann's Iron Law.
 
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Not really...when I see a product on amazon with 81% 5 star ratings I usually have no problems giving it a try.
Amazon.com: Cerwin-Vega VPAS12ST 12" 2Ω 600W / 150W RMS Powered Active Subwoofer Spare Tire Application, Black : Electronics

And CV has always been known for decent bass.
I have had good perfomance from free air subs before but if this one does not improve with better inputs, it will go back for sure.
What is missing from the amp section is input level adjustment and that could be the problem here also.

Do you know which wires/colors to tap into?
 

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69mach1-395

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Thanks Mike.
I did some youtubing earlier and got the following consensus;
Left + wht/grn
Left - brn/ylw
Right + brn/wht
Right - brn/blu

Which matches with the thread you posted...
 
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Good news everyone...using the rear speaker leads made a huge difference, so don't use the sub leads. Only problem is, for now, I don't have rear speakers as the wires were so tight I could not tap in gracefully. I'm getting too old for all these contortions, lol

I'll get real world results tomorrow when I drive around all day.

Here's an idea of how it looks and fits...

20211210_164251.jpg
 

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Where did you get the shower cap for the spare????
 
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Great news everyone...this sub kicks the shaker to the floor. I should have done it sooner is my only regret. The stock woofer only uses 14 ga power wire, so there is your first clue.
I have to tame the beast with the controller for some bass heavy songs by dialing back the gain and/or bass boost. I have the crossover around 75-80 Hz and phase doesn't do much.
So Mike, I can definitely recommend this unit. Just be prepared for some post contortion pain. Note that the screw down threads are 6mm, so the included parts don't work. You will need to fab that to length depending on your spare or no spare.
 

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Just be prepared for some post contortion pain.
Post contortion pain is my daily life! Let me know when you do a cabin filter on a BMW i8. Anyway, thanks for the updates. I have some thinking to do. Did you do anything to help the bass pass into the cabin?
 
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I have always left one rear seat down but might try it with both up.

20211214_145743.jpg
 
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Okay, tried it with both seats up. The sub powers thru them but I prefer the sound with one down after all...much cleaner IMO.
 
 




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