Spacers with Factory OEM Wheels

[19GTDude]

Has anyone successfully used 20mm spacers with these OEM wheels without cutting the studs? There are notches on the back of the wheel between each stud hole. Not interested in being flush with the fender so I'd rather go with the 20mm instead of 25mm spacers. Thanks.

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[1 old racer]

I used them on my set of PP1 rims before I got new rims. All you have to do is counter boere the pocket between the lug holes. Here is how I did it. I installed the 20mm spacer and applied the tips of the oem studs with paint and installed the wheel . Then remove the wheel and see where the fresh paint transferred to the wheel. Center punch the center of the transferred paint mark. take a 9/16 or 5/8 dia drill bit and counter bore the rim about 1/2 deep. I wrapped a thick amount of tape on the drill bit so that I dont over drill the dept. Its not as hard as it may sound. or you can buy a set of 23 mm to 25 mm spacers and not touch the rim.

 

[NGOT8R]

If that is what is required, I recommend taking the wheels to a machine shop, so that they can be precisely drilled to the appropriate diameter and depth. However, I’d be afraid to do this because the wheel could break around the lug nut over time from having reduced the thickness. How about having a spacer welded to the back of the wheel instead? There are shops that can do this. My brother had a set of factory Cobra wheels cut and widened before years ago.

 

[1 old racer]

the best way to do this is to go with the 23 mm spacer. that is the thinnest spacer you can go with without c'boring the wheel.

 

[NGOT8R]

Have a look here.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/psa-i-had-a-cracked-steeda-wheel-spacer.157960/

 

[Norm Peterson]

Has anyone successfully used 20mm spacers with these OEM wheels without cutting the studs? There are notches on the back of the wheel between each stud hole. Not interested in being flush with the fender so I'd rather go with the 20mm instead of 25mm spacers. Thanks.

Just press the studs out of the spacers and use them as slip-on spacers. You will need to put longer studs in the hubs, but that's not a bad thing because ARP studs are at least as good as Ford's OE.

Machining the wheel can only reduce its strength and/or fatigue resistance.


Norm

 

[19GTDude]

I'll keep everyone posted. I managed to measure the pockets on the back of my OEM wheels which are .35 inches deep. Given the width difference between 20mm and 25mm spacers is .20 inches it may well work without having to go to 25mm spacers.

 

[Deleted member 35644]

I'll keep everyone posted. I managed to measure the pockets on the back of my OEM wheels which are .35 inches deep. Given the width difference between 20mm and 25mm spacers is .20 inches it may well work without having to go to 25mm spacers.

Post some pictures from various angles when you get them on. I'd like to see how it looks.

 

[1 old racer]

Something you can do to make sure you are camping down on the spacers face and not the top of the lug stud, it to tear off some tissue and place between the wheel and spacer and torque it down. If you can remove the tissue you are torquing on the tips of the lug stud. Also look at the pockets where the lug stud should clear and if you see any marks they are hitting the studs.

 

[Konamoth]

I currently run 25mm in front, 23mm spacers in rear. Don't know that I'd want to go any lower than that—as Racer pointed out, below 23mm you risk sitting on the stud tips.

I ordered mine custom from motosport-tech, as I really wasn't sure where the hell one finds 23mm spacers otherwise, hah.

 

[19GTDude]

20mm spacers installed. As best that I could measure my studs were sticking out about 9mm from spacer. The pockets on the back of the wheel measure just over 12mm. I was unable to remove a page of printer paper when the wheels were tightened down and the wheels truly felt like they were hitting the spacer when I slid them on. I plan to drive around the block and then remove the wheels to make sure there are no marks on the inside of the wheels. Any hint and we'll need to step up to 25mm spacers.

 

[1 old racer]

25mm will clear the stud for sure. As I stated before if you do not wish to ç'bore the rim the thinest spacer you can use is a 23mm. If the oem rims pockets were flat and square off you may have been able to get away with out boaring it out but sence the lug dia. is as large as it is it will come in contact with the tapered wall at the base of the pockets. Bore it out or put on a thicker spacer. One more item of concern. 25mm on a oem rim will be ok for the front ,but the rear will poke a little and may rub when the suspension bottoms out on bumps. This can cause very expensive damage. Go with the 23mm spacer and then you can drive it with out any worries

 

[1 old racer]

Mine with 23mm on the rear and 25mm up front with oem pp1 rims

 

[Deleted member 35644]

20mm spacers installed. As best that I could measure my studs were sticking out about 9mm from spacer. The pockets on the back of the wheel measure just over 12mm. I was unable to remove a page of printer paper when the wheels were tightened down and the wheels truly felt like they were hitting the spacer when I slid them on. I plan to drive around the block and then remove the wheels to make sure there are no marks on the inside of the wheels. Any hint and we'll need to step up to 25mm spacers.

Are you lowered?

 

[19GTDude]

Are you lowered?

Yep. Steeda progressives

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