Need help with wheels, spacers.

[FreePenguin]

Im thinking with my (19x9.0 square with its 45offset) that 20mm spacers would what I need.

(looking at the steeda unless people tell me they are bad for some reason) that should make all 4 wheels be perfectly same.

I’ve been reading people saying there are issues with them getting stuck to car.

Sponsored

 

[FreePenguin]

Google says the mustangs w pp1 wheels are 19.0 45 offset fronts.

With this said,
I have the same size wheels all around, I’ve been reading people do 25mm front and 20mm rear, so does this mean I should go 25mm all around? Or 20mm all around

 

[Nagare]

I think your rims are factory offset of 35 mine are offset of 45

how does this factor? Does this mean mine are or yours is further out already? Will that mean 20mm on mine will be further or closer inside, meaning maybe I need 15mm or 25mm or whatever to make up for the offset.

Thanks!

I actually don’t know your guys’s oem offset,]

My wheels are not stock, they are 20x10 with a +42 offset and I put a 5mm spacer on each corner which ends with effective offset of +37. Offset is different based on wheel width, I gave my answer for you above based on calculated what the difference would be using this calculator. Set current as 10" width, 37 offset, and new as 9" width with 25 (yours with 20mm spacer) or 20 (yours with 25mm spacer) offset.

The 20mm spacer would have your wheels 1mm more inside compared to mine, the 25mm spacer would stick out 4mm more.

 

[1 old racer]

if you go with the 20mm spacer make sure the tip on your lug studs dont bottom our against your wheel. When you install the 20mm spacer on your hub. apply some paint to the ends of the OEM studs and install your wheel. if the paint transfers onto the rim you will need to C'bore it out a little with a 9/16th drill just a little so that the wheel will seat against the spacer and not against the lug studs.

 

[Nagare]

And if you're wondering why to what he's saying above, the 20mm spacer might not be thick enough to cover the full length of the stud that it needs to so part of your actual studs could be hitting the "pockets" of the wheel. 25mm doesn't have that issue because it is thicker and covers the whole stud (iirc from when I had mine on).

Other thing to point out before it happens is that your cradle might be misaligned now and after the suspension changes. If this happens, one side will stick out more than the other (or one side will be tucked in more, depends how you look at it). This can be fixed by installing the Steeda alignment dowels while they're doing the suspension work because it centers the cradle where it should be. Only saying this because at stock height you don't really notice it because there's so much space there anyway, but once it's dropped it is a lot more evident because the fender is right there.

 

[FreePenguin]

So you’re saying the 20mm is the best bet, and if it rubs just to drill it down / shave it out so it won’t rub anymore in the recession spots.

think 20mm would be safe for not getting the rock chips? 25mm sounds like that will be throwing Rocks on my paint.

I was literally just reading about the fitment issue about grooves on wheel back plate.


is this the steeda dowel kit that I need? Easy to install? (Watched video) should be easy enough. If this is right kit I’m ordering now
https://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-mustang-irs-subframe-alignment-kit-2015-all-555-4438.html


Also ordering 20mm spacers once you guys say this is my best bet!

 

[FreePenguin]

Any comments whether the steeda ones should be safe? I don’t want bad spacers, I’m just using all steeda suspension as of now lol

 

[Nagare]

They should be safe, Steeda has never steered me wrong!

And yes those are the right ones for the alignment dowels I was talking about.

 

[FreePenguin]

I’d like all of my wheels to be the same squared, I like the look on right more then left. So if 20mm made mine close to that, I think would be really nice.

I read spacers eat wheel bearings, think I’d have this issue with 20mm?

 

[FreePenguin]

Or one more thought, I’ve been teetering idea of going to 20s after my drop. I stayed 19s to re use my rubber.

would either of these provide a more flush look than what I have?

 

[Nagare]

20x8.5 +35 would sit in 17mm compared to mine
20x10 +48 would sit in 11mm compared to mine

Really you'd want 10" wide with a 35-38 offset or 9" wide with a 24-27 offset.

If you aren't set on whichever shop those screenshots are from, check out LMR now because they have some killer deals on their wheels for Black Friday-Cyber Monday. Some are $500 for the set!

 

[Grintch]

So why do you want to do this again? So your buddy will think you are cool?

If you like your car and your wheels don't mess with them.

If you want new wheels and a more flush fitment, get wheels with the right offset (and preferably, get wider wheels and tires so you actually make the car better). Since you seem to like the PP wheels, I would look at the OE Wheels 19x10 +35 PP replicas.

As an engineer I would NEVER use bolt on spacers. Two bolted joints are weaker and less reliable than 1. And I would only use bolt through spacers if I really need them (and associated longer studs if needed).

 

[Nagare]

I get the sentiment and understand it, but it doesn't have to be about what anyone else thinks for the car, just looks way better to have that type of fitment and you don't need wide wheels for a relaxed daily driver. $80 for spacers vs $600+ for new wheels is a no brainer decision.

 

[Grintch]

See post #27 where he talks about getting different wheels. And post #1(?) where he is happy with his current wheels/setup but his buddy thinks he should get spacers.

Makes it hard to give good advice when you get mixed messages.

Sponsored