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JoshuaShane

JoshuaShane

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There are Sync 3 forums that can show you how to do advanced software changes like revert to earlier versions of Sync and stuff. You might look them up.
The amplifier is actually part of the head unit- it does more than amplify channels if I remember correctly. It has its own ground. You can check to see if the wires transmitting sound signals to the amp have- I believe- changing alternating current voltage as the volume is attempted to be changed. Five Star Car Audio has great Mustang system install videos, really getting in depth with the way the system works. That's all I got!
Thank you I’ll definitely check those things out. Tomorrow I’m pulling every fuse I can get my hands on and gonna check them and I guess go from there.
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Adam the Lighting Guy

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Here is a silly question. Many modern vehicles have the turn signal click click sound now through the speakers instead of a traditional "flasher " mechanical unit. Do you get that click sound when the turn signals or Hazzard lights are on ? If you do, I would suspect a software issue with the head unit. If you do not, then as others have mentioned that the head unit has a built in amplifier and that may have failed.
 

ShadesOfBloo

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No my uncle changed it. I tried asking him about it but he always acts like everyone should know how to rebuild an engine so he’s not much help when asking questions.
That sounds familiar...
Are his answers a bit like "proof by intimidation"?

"EVERYBODY knows that..."
"You should know that before you come to my class"
Or (from a professor mocking professors who do this) "It's intuitively obvious to the most casual observer."

I can't remember the specific ones I've heard from mechanics, but I've known mechanics who could have done anything and chose auto repair, and they don't seem to mind most questions.

It seems to be a whole different type of person who is surprised (and easily offended) by questions from a customer that owns a torque wrench and has some idea what he's looking at.

Answers like that are signs that you should ask somebody else.

...And here you are, so you're probably on the right track. 🙂
 

ShadesOfBloo

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Sorry I’m stupid when it comes to things under the hood. Lol!
Does ground points mean maybe the battery connectors needs to be checked?
Give yourself some credit. We all go through a phase where "You don't know what you don't know."
I've met a guy that went charging in with tools and changed parts willy-nilly, without understanding how his car worked. Talking to him got painful after a while.

If you ain't know nuthin', but you're smart enough to ask questions, "stupid" is not the word for you.

I believe the other guys who say your ground is not likely the problem, but it will come up again one day, so...

On the (Japanese) cars where I have the most experience, you can see a wire that's bolted to metal. Sometimes a painted body panel, sometimes a bare metal bracket for some other part. Usually within 6 or 8 inches of the battery.
I don't know about Ford, but I know those conductors age badly on a Nissan. Every few years I look at the ground connection on my '92 Nissan, and see rust worth sanding off.

I found a photo of a 2018 EcoBoost grounding cable. (I still haven't found where it is in the engine bay.)
2018 Mustang Ecoboost, negative ground wire.png


Edit: This might be the connection, on this strut tower:
2018 Mustang, appears to be the ground wire.webp


(Okay, I'm done with my tangent for now 😁)
 
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MD18EcoStang

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Give yourself some credit. We all go through a phase where "You don't know what you don't know."
I've met a guy that went charging in with tools and changed parts willy-nilly, without understanding how his car worked. Talking to him got painful after a while.

If you ain't know nuthin', but you're smart enough to ask questions, "stupid" is not the word for you.

I believe the other guys who say your ground is not likely the problem, but it will come up again one day, so...

On the (Japanese) cars where I have the most experience, you can see a wire that's bolted to metal. Sometimes a painted body panel, sometimes a bare metal bracket for some other part. Usually within 6 or 8 inches of the battery.
I don't know about Ford, but I know those conductors age badly on a Nissan. Every few years I look at the ground connection on my '92 Nissan, and see rust worth sanding off.

I found a photo of a 2018 EcoBoost grounding cable. (I still haven't found where it is in the engine bay.)
2018 Mustang Ecoboost, negative ground wire.webp


Edit: This might be the connection, on this strut tower:
2018 Mustang, appears to be the ground wire.webp


(Okay, I'm done with my tangent for now 😁)
Yes, that's the shock tower I was referring to earlier (front passenger side), and definitely the ground cable on the Ecoboost I was thinking of. It's often also used as a mounting point for some of the Ecoboost catch can options, where if not installed with care, can become a problem. I also agree with you about a ground issue being less likely in this scenario, since the problem seems very isolated and specific and there seem to be no other issues, but you never know.
 

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I have an odd question: Do your non-radio sounds still work? Like the chime when you leave the headlights on and turn the car off, or the nav system voice?
 
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JoshuaShane

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Ok guys I’m finally checking the fuses. Not sure what I’m looking for on them. I pulled this one out.. is it blown or is it ok?
IMG_6151.jpeg
 

SheepDog

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Ok guys I’m finally checking the fuses. Not sure what I’m looking for on them. I pulled this one out.. is it blown or is it ok?
IMG_6151.jpeg
Looks ok. The little "S" in the middle would have a break in it if it were blown, and generally a bit of discoloration
 
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JoshuaShane

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Looks ok. The little "S" in the middle would have a break in it if it were blown, and generally a bit of discoloration
Ok I see what you’re talking about. Let me check some other ones and see if the S is separated.
 

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JoshuaShane

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What about this one? Doesn’t look like it’s connected at the bottom of the U.
IMG_6154.jpeg
 

JetGray_Mach1

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What about this one? Doesn’t look like it’s connected at the bottom of the U.
IMG_6154.jpeg
That looks blown, you can confirm with a Multimeter. Instead of pulling them one by one you can use a Multimeter as well much easier for future. You just place the probes at the back end and look for a beep to confirm connection.
 

JetGray_Mach1

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If you don't have extra, you can remove one from another area "has to be same size" and test it to see if that fixes your problem.
 
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JoshuaShane

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That looks blown, you can confirm with a Multimeter. Instead of pulling them one by one you can use a Multimeter as well much easier for future. You just place the probes at the back end and look for a beep to confirm connection.
Yea I need to get me one of those because it’s hell laying down and trying to pull these with my left hand. Lol! So do I just go to an auto parts store and buy a 20 fuse or does it have to be a specific 20 fuse?
 

JetGray_Mach1

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Yea I need to get me one of those because it’s hell laying down and trying to pull these with my left hand. Lol! So do I just go to an auto parts store and buy a 20 fuse or does it have to be a specific 20 fuse?
There is different types of fuses. Just take it with you and match the correct one.
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