Selling 2016 EB PP for GT - Advice

[emericA243]

So I have a 2016 EB PP which I bought stock and hardly used in 2017 with 6k miles on it at the time for $21k. I have since totally transformed the car and am looking to sell it. I should of gotten that 5.0 from the start but oh well, here i am 3 years later trying to cope looking for one.

Needless to say this will really only happen if I can sell my current vehicle to the right buyer. I'm not interested in totally returning it to stock and parting everything out. While that may get me closest to the best full return sale price its alot of effort. Id rather look for the right buyer as she is. At worst case i would try to meet in the middle with a buyer\dealer and decouple any basic things to get it as close as stock as possible and eat the cost. I pretty much have every OEM part that was replaced in a box in near mint condition as it was when i purchased the car(tail lights, headlights, grilles, exhaust, IC, etc)

I'm clearly not looking for the full "what was put into it" cost back in my pocket, but I also think i'm being more then reasonable. Anyhoo, 3 years later it has 18kmi on the odometer now and it has been babied inside and out. I'm not going to list all the upgrades on it but just to put it into perspective...

Front splitter
Side skirts
Rear Skirts
Front Fog Splitters
Cervinis Stalker Hood /w Vents
Front Windshield Banner Tint
5% Tint Around
QuikLatch Bumper Release
Retrofitted Headlights
Custom Grille w/ Halo Lights
Switchback LED Front Signals
LED Rear Sidemarkers
5-Mode EURO Tail Lights
Rear LED Reverse\Brake Light
Custom Airbrushed Horse
Rear Spoiler
Black Vinyl Roof
Underglow all around
EIBACH 1" Lower Springs
Stress Jacking rails

Yellow Camo Wrapped Interior
Alcantara Red Strip Flat Steering Wheel

Ford Performance Power Pack
CAI
Garret Intercooler
TurboSmart BOV
Mishimoto Catback Exhaust


Now with all that being said.... Assuming I can sell this thing for $25,000 I would be wanting to look at a 2016-18 GT for around the same price. Obviously it would probably be stock, which is fine, as ill work on doing all the modifications back to it, 5.0 style. However from what ive gathered, it looks like around $25k will get you a GT non premium anywhere from 10-25kmi on the odometer. Ive seen some as low as 7k mi and some as high as 32k mi for that mid-high $26-27k price range. What would one consider as an average \ good price these days on these S550 5.0's? And secondly, as far as telling if it was taken care of, any common recalls \ issues with 5.0's(im not aware of them) what is something I should be on the look out for? I plan to have this car last me a while, until it cant function anymore so....

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[Zinc03svt]

Why...? I’d say build the short block, cometic head gaskets, and go big turbo. Fuck a GT...

 

[emericA243]

I'll admit mechanical / engine is not my specialty. What does something like that cost, in parts and labor? And secondly what specs do you get from that? Don't get me wrong I don't hate on the EcoBoost I'll call it zippy but not fast. one thing that really only draws me to the GT is theoretically the better longer lasting engine and that sound you can't replicate

 

[NightmareMoon]

Man you’re going to have to depersonalize that car and lower your expectations for asking price. You might get a little more for the power mods, but you’re reducing your potential market with the tacky visual mods. Underbody lights, yellow highlights on the black bits, camo wrap, all that stuff should go IMHO. Its not going to raise the price even if somebody kinda liked it, and a lot of people won’t go near it... and I like yellow cars and have owned one.

 

[Rock&Roll]

Wow you really boogered that car up

I'd really consider taking the time to put all those OEM parts back on and selling that stuff separately. Nobody really wants your creation. They want stock just like you do.

Or take a loss I guess. Tough call.

Good luck

 

[emericA243]

Man you’re going to have to depersonalize that car and lower your expectations for asking price. You might get a little more for the power mods, but you’re reducing your potential market with the tacky visual mods. Underbody lights, yellow highlights on the black bits, camo wrap, all that stuff should go IMHO. Its not going to raise the price even if somebody kinda liked it, and a lot of people won’t go near it... and I like yellow cars and have owned one.

Yep, I said in my original post I know removal and reselling as stock would be the best bang for the buck. The same car stock sells for over $20k. Honestly anyone buying it as it is PLUS all stock parts with it as well for $25k is a steal.

App depends on the right teenager these days wanting it I suppose.

 

[emericA243]

Do either of you have any advice on the GT questions? That's really more so what in looking for this thread to be about

 

[NightmareMoon]

Do either of you have any advice on the GT questions? That's really more so what in looking for this thread to be about

Ok then, we'll talk about GTs.

Some GTs will have HVAC recall or repairs. Those failed on many cars, including mine. If you can find a good low mile car, ideally with some maintenance records I don't think you'll have much to worry about. The engines on the 15-17s are pretty bulletproof. Personally I'd rather buy a car with crappy worn out tires and a $1k discount than get a car with new (but off brand) tires.

I'd recommend trying to find a PP car, just for the Brembo brakes and the 3.73 torsen. In the used market, in your price range, I'd think you could find a premium leather car with PP1, it would just have a few more miles than a base car with cloth.

 

[canyon ed]

Ok then, we'll talk about GTs.

Some GTs will have HVAC recall or repairs. Those failed on many cars, including mine. If you can find a good low mile car, ideally with some maintenance records I don't think you'll have much to worry about. The engines on the 15-17s are pretty bulletproof. Personally I'd rather buy a car with crappy worn out tires and a $1k discount than get a car with new (but off brand) tires.

I'd recommend trying to find a PP car, just for the Brembo brakes and the 3.73 torsen. In the used market, in your price range, I'd think you could find a premium leather car with PP1, it would just have a few more miles than a base car with cloth.

Or get a loaded Auto and build a GT PP1 like I did which Ford NVRMADE . But add GT350 parts to your build. Need any help finding parts let me know.

 

[Zinc03svt]

OP could have bought a GT350 with the $$$ he spent on his Ecoboost.

 

[Shifting_Gears]

I second shooting for a 15-17 GT with the performance package. best deal right now would be a 16-17 you could get a certified pre owned to get the extended “warranty” aka service plan and the lower interest rate on a used car.

Gen II Coyotes are a sweetheart engine. Down a little on power from the 18+ but very stout and the cars are a good buyers value right now.

Performance Package cars will have the following and are ABSOLUTELY worth paying a few grand over a base car if you’re performance oriented:
Lower/stiffer springs
HD struts/shocks
Strut tower brace
Larger radiator/HD hoses/increased coolant capacity
Oil cooler
6 piston Brembo brakes, larger rotors
3.73 gears
TORSEN rear differential (mechanical, not clutch driven which is great for durability) and it puts power DOWN in the corners
Oil psi/vacuum gauges
19x9/19x9.5 PP specific wheels

Maybe missing a couple of items.

With that being said, I think you need to be realistic with your pricing of your EB. The aftermarket parts aren’t going to add significant value to the vehicle. Your best bet may be return to stock the obvious/easy stuff and sell the rest separate to recoup the costs. I don’t think stock or modded you’ll get $25k for the car private party, or trade.

 

[canyon ed]

I second shooting for a 15-17 GT with the performance package. best deal right now would be a 16-17 you could get a certified pre owned to get the extended “warranty” aka service plan and the lower interest rate on a used car.

Gen II Coyotes are a sweetheart engine. Down a little on power from the 18+ but very stout and the cars are a good buyers value right now.

Performance Package cars will have the following and are ABSOLUTELY worth paying a few grand over a base car if you’re performance oriented:
Lower/stiffer springs
HD struts/shocks
Strut tower brace
Larger radiator/HD hoses/increased coolant capacity
Oil cooler
6 piston Brembo brakes, larger rotors
3.73 gears
TORSEN rear differential (mechanical, not clutch driven which is great for durability) and it puts power DOWN in the corners
Oil psi/vacuum gauges
19x9/19x9.5 PP specific wheels

Maybe missing a couple of items.

With that being said, I think you need to be realistic with your pricing of your EB. The aftermarket parts aren’t going to add significant value to the vehicle. Your best bet may be return to stock the obs/easy stuff and sell the rest separate to recoup the costs. I don’t think stock or modded you’ll get $25k for the car private party, or trade.

You are correct but with an A

I second shooting for a 15-17 GT with the performance package. best deal right now would be a 16-17 you could get a certified pre owned to get the extended “warranty” aka service plan and the lower interest rate on a used car.

Gen II Coyotes are a sweetheart engine. Down a little on power from the 18+ but very stout and the cars are a good buyers value right now.

Performance Package cars will have the following and are ABSOLUTELY worth paying a few grand over a base car if you’re performance oriented:
Lower/stiffer springs
HD struts/shocks
Strut tower brace
Larger radiator/HD hoses/increased coolant capacity
Oil cooler
6 piston Brembo brakes, larger rotors
3.73 gears
TORSEN rear differential (mechanical, not clutch driven which is great for durability) and it puts power DOWN in the corners
Oil psi/vacuum gauges
19x9/19x9.5 PP specific wheels

Maybe missing a couple of items.

With that being said, I think you need to be realistic with your pricing of your EB. The aftermarket parts aren’t going to add significant value to the vehicle. Your best bet may be return to stock the obvious/easy stuff and sell the rest separate to recoup the costs. I don’t think stock or modded you’ll get $25k for the car private party, or trade.

Great idea but I built the only 17 GT PP1 auto because of LA CA traffic. Nice to see the 15-17GT crowd helping out.

 

[Shifting_Gears]

You are correct but with an A

Great idea but I built the only 17 GT PP1 auto because of LA CA traffic. Nice to see the 15-17GT crowd helping out.

17 GT PP1 auto convertible at that, lol. Don’t blame you. CA traffic is a different level of crazy.

 

[Wolfe]

So I may have missed it in your post but what exactly is your main goal in Upgrading to a 5.0? Are you after the power gains or the sound?

if the latter, then yeah there’s really nothing you can do to an EB to replicate that V8 sound, full stop.

However, if the the former...

Without even building the block, you can easily make 400+ rwhp on a conservative tune by upgrading the turbo and downpipe.

Just off the top of my head, the Vargas and the NX2 are drop in replacements that come in around 1600 so add in the intercooler and labor costs for installation (unless you plan on doing it yourself), I’d price the entire thing around 2k. You could look into adding a few supplemental mods like camshafts, fuel injectors & spark plugs but that would be up to you.

With as much as you’ve spent on the car already, I’d look into going that route as opposed to trying to unload your highly personalized EB to someone and starting over on a brand new car.

 

[Idaho2018GTPremium]

Not really my style but interesting none the less. My advice would be to get rid of the more flamboyant pieces like the yellow rear license plate holder, Murica front plate thing, the decals, and may be the yellow runner side skirts. Those changes may help tone it down a little and attract more interested buyers.

Regarding a GT...I won't really comment on the price cause I haven't really looked lately, but an '18 GT PP1 A10 base model is a sweet spot for performance. Gets you the Gen 3 Coyote, 460(+) hp w/ 7,500 rpm redline, and the updated front and rear end, and the 10 speed auto (a huge upgrade for acceleration and overall performance), and the numerous performance package upgrades. 0-60 in 3.8 seconds and 1/4 mile in 12.1 @ 120 mph per Car and Driver; and some others are hitting high 11s at the drag strip in that car, bone stock.

If it's in your budget, I'd definitely recommend the Premium over the base. Lots of nice upgrades.

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