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Sad, possible loss….

AvalancheSVT

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thanks man---been a rough pill to swallow but i guess its my penace for no one getting hurt...are you saying you think i should have a decent TL value?
your car is special, mint, low miles, and relatively new plus the used market is trying to huck 40K mile GT's for 40K still.

if you had magneride (and recaros would definitely do it) the payout should get you closed to mach 1 territory. bullitts are basically tippy top loaded GT's.

fact of the matter is there's no replacing that car so finding a MINT near 6k bullitt out the door for 49K would be absolutely insane.

i'd tell them "look, if you think i can get a car as good as mine for this money OUT THE DOOR find it and i will buy it, otherwise we're talking special edition practically brand new cars here".

actually the california special with the performance pack is pretty close.

this would be my number to beat. 57K. TTL and the rest will be thousands so like 60K out the door, so 57K, consider the 3+ you're leaving on the table the cost of usage of the bullitt.

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Adotcaruso86

Adotcaruso86

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your car is special, mint, low miles, and relatively new plus the used market is trying to huck 40K mile GT's for 40K still.

if you had magneride (and recaros would definitely do it) the payout should get you closed to mach 1 territory. bullitts are basically tippy top loaded GT's.

fact of the matter is there's no replacing that car so finding a MINT near 6k bullitt out the door for 49K would be absolutely insane.

i'd tell them "look, if you think i can get a car as good as mine for this money OUT THE DOOR find it and i will buy it, otherwise we're talking special edition practically brand new cars here".

mangenride, recaros,,,b&o...pretty sure there wasnt an option that isnt on the car.
 

AvalancheSVT

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mangenride, recaros,,,b&o...pretty sure there wasnt an option that isnt on the car.
dude. that's 60K to replace if its a nickel. oh the engine mods too, i forgot the bullitts are faster.

yeah, they're on the hook for a new mach 1. its the only thing comparable right now and your car was basically brand spanking new. that's like 1 oil change mileage.

premium mach 1 all options without the handling package.

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daaaaaaaaaaaaaaang.


so is this your insurance company or someone else's? that matters, you actually get more leverage when you're "the victim".
 
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Simplejack

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Take the pay out, will take for ever for parts/labor ect... I wouldn't think you would see it back before spring break
 

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chesster51

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ad is incorrect. i see at least 4 mods.

1. filter
2. shifter knob
3. spoiler install
4. rear emblem replaced with bullitt letters
As stated in the ad there’s over $5000 in mods that are documented in a spreadsheet which will be provided to a serious buyer. Thanks for checking in though.
 

GeorgeC

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Hey everyone, this comes with embarrassment to even post/ask for help….as well as sadness. I won’t get into how it happened but it did. Long story short, the car is in perfect shape, 6,000 miles, minus the obvious damage. My insurance company has an estimate at 24k right now but telling me “no one will do this big of a job” and is recommending a total loss. I’m torn. If I find a place that is capable of fixing it, will it ever be the same? Is it best to take the check and find something new? I’m literally heartbroken and don’t feel like I deserve anything anymore but looking for any help my fear is if there is a collision location with the capabilities to fix it, is it worth it? I never plan, or want to sell it but the obvious is the value will be extremely diminished

thanks in advance
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The right shop can repair anything the insurance may still total it. What they worried about is what's called open items damage they can't see. If they get the car apart and find additional damage that would definitely total it. The insurance company should authorize 8-16 hours to take the car apart to find out how much additional damage there is. If you decided to use aftermarket parts to repair it they wouldn't have a problem with that unless the parts were more expensive but with the oem parts costing what they do its not likely they will be more expensive. Find out what the total loss figure is and go from there. Sorry for your loss and good luck. I know you feel bad but remember it really is just sheet metal.
 

babrams3

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Tough loss, I'd take the check. Even getting her fixed up, she might never drive the same and have an ugly accident record. Mustangs are heartbreakers man
 

Cobra Jet

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Take the payout and do whatever you wish.

Bullitt or not, it's just a car - it can be replaced (or fixed), but not knowing the circumstances of your event, glad no one was injured and chalk it up as an experience to be learned from or one that will eventually fade into the past.

The VIN to that car will forever be blemished regardless of which VIN reporting service is used to check prior history. If that car does get deemed "totaled", it won't just have crash/accident history, it will have a "salvage" title. Having a salvaged title history is worse than just having an accident history.... and even if repaired correctly, it will be a real issue to try and sell it in the future with salvage history.

Wipe your slate clean, start fresh is the way to go, especially since you have stated you still owe at least $36k on it.

---

Also not knowing your situation, if it were me - I'd let the Ins. Co. come back with a fair payout value. Then if satisfied with their validation, I'd then say ok, I want to keep the car and buy it back. So they would deduct whatever delta from the payout, car would be paid off, you keep the car and the remainder of the payout $$$.

(Been there, done it before, and yes, you can make a real positive out of a negative).

After doing that - now you can decide to do whatever you wish with the car. You could:
- piece it back together with used parts and drive it OR use it as a race car.
- sell it off as is (making more $$$ on top of your already received payout). Selling it off as is, to get rid of it quick, that's an easy $15k-$20k back in your pocket selling it just as it sits.
- part it out (again banking more $$$) , but it takes longer to sell off all the good parts and drivetrain - and a salvage company won't give all that much for a body shell.

:)
 

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AvalancheSVT

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The right shop can repair anything the insurance may still total it. What they worried about is what's called open items damage they can't see. If they get the car apart and find additional damage that would definitely total it. The insurance company should authorize 8-16 hours to take the car apart to find out how much additional damage there is. If you decided to use aftermarket parts to repair it they wouldn't have a problem with that unless the parts were more expensive but with the oem parts costing what they do its not likely they will be more expensive. Find out what the total loss figure is and go from there. Sorry for your loss and good luck. I know you feel bad but remember it really is just sheet metal.
this is the sticking point with the insurance company. this could EASILY exceed half the cost of the car thenthey gotta pay out depreciation for such a huge repair. this could end up costing them 30-35K not counting time spent dealing with the situation itself.... so they're better off cutting him a check for 55K just to eliminate risk and be done with it.
 

TrackMustang

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Just got the word…53k minus 1k deductible, paid 50,500 after TTL….There is a ‘19 bullitt for 44k with 15k miles. Same options, recaro and magneride….
Obviously I was way off. Good for you bud, that’s awesome!
 

dmcg940

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That's quite a lot of damage. For me, I wouldn't want it after it had been repaired and would want the payout. I'd never feel the same about it. And I'm not sure it will ever actually BE the same. Not to mention the big fat red mark on your Carfax.
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