S550 2019 Active Exhaust Valve

[mikemusso]

Folks, My driver side Active Exhaust Valve Motor is not opening and closing like my Passenger side. It does move but does not fully open and close.
I believe this is the cause of the constant "exhaust mode not available" messages and operational issues. I have sprayed it with silicon, WD40
and gave it a nudge with a long ratchet bar.. No help.

Not sure if worth mentioning but I thought this was the worn passenger side cable problem. I ordered and replaced both sides with no resolve
before I visually noticed the difference in valve movement.

Do I have to drop the back section of the exhaust to change the motor? The bolts look accessible but not sure about managing replacement.

I do have a Ford Blue Certified warranty until August but the dealership won't tell me if this is covered without bringing it in....... $250 diag cost then
parts and labor if not covered. Only $100 if it is covered but could cost much more if not.

Thanks Mike

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[MiamiGT350]

I have no way of predicting what the dealer will blame, and later what they will choose to cover under warranty.

Most lubricants will burn off when the exhaust heats up. You need high-temperature copper spray, if anything.

Scan your car for DTCs related to the exhaust. A message in the dash will store an error code.

If you suspect the wire looms, you can swap the right and left wire looms to see if the issue moves to the other side.

If you suspect the actuators, those also can be swapped right and left.

If everything seems to work fine after getting warmed up, then it's likely your valves are dirty and sticking. You'd need to drop the exhaust to access everything. You can use brake cleaner to clear all out where the spring sits. which tends to collect a lot of small rocks. Additionally, the valves should turn easily/freely by hand when the actuators are off.

Also, you can also try doing an exhaust actuator relearn (it's also available in ForSCAN): https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/active-exhaust-sounds-like-crap.121345/post-2920036

 

[junits15]

You can change it without dropping the exhaust. From what I recall that motor is way more expensive than it should be.
A 1/4” 10mm ratchet will get the job done.

 

[SnowFox]

I have no way of predicting what the dealer will blame, and later what they will choose to cover under warranty.

Most lubricants will burn off when the exhaust heats up. You need high-temperature copper spray, if anything.

Scan your car for DTCs related to the exhaust. A message in the dash will store an error code.

If you suspect the wire looms, you can swap the right and left wire looms to see if the issue moves to the other side.

If you suspect the actuators, those also can be swapped right and left.

If everything seems to work fine after getting warmed up, then it's likely your valves are dirty and sticking. You'd need to drop the exhaust to access everything. You can use brake cleaner to clear all out where the spring sits. which tends to collect a lot of small rocks. Additionally, the valves should turn easily/freely by hand when the actuators are off.

Also, you can also try doing an exhaust actuator relearn (it's also available in ForSCAN): https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/active-exhaust-sounds-like-crap.121345/post-2920036

This. Do the relearn procedure. Usually clears up issues with the valve

 

[MAGS1]

You can change it without dropping the exhaust. From what I recall that motor is way more expensive than it should be.
A 1/4” 10mm ratchet will get the job done.

First I’ve heard of that. Wire harness yes, but to change the actuator (and seat the spring properly), the exhaust needs to be dropped. If you’ve got some tricks to share, please do. I and I’m sure others would like to know for future use.

 

[junits15]

First I’ve heard of that. Wire harness yes, but to change the actuator (and seat the spring properly), the exhaust needs to be dropped. If you’ve got some tricks to share, please do. I and I’m sure others would like to know for future use.

I've done it a few times now, you can absolutely get it off without dropping the exhaust. There's not really a trick to it, just sneak a small 1/4" rachet and a shallow socket up there and it will come out, there's enough room.

 

[MAGS1]

I've done it a few times now, you can absolutely get it off without dropping the exhaust. There's not really a trick to it, just sneak a small 1/4" rachet and a shallow socket up there and it will come out, there's enough room.

How is it getting the actuator seated properly? Can’t imagine that’s super easy given how the motor sits?

 

[SnowFox]

First I’ve heard of that. Wire harness yes, but to change the actuator (and seat the spring properly), the exhaust needs to be dropped. If you’ve got some tricks to share, please do. I and I’m sure others would like to know for future use.

Same. The actuator motor yes. But the actual valve/body no.

 

[mikemusso]

I have no way of predicting what the dealer will blame, and later what they will choose to cover under warranty.

Most lubricants will burn off when the exhaust heats up. You need high-temperature copper spray, if anything.

Scan your car for DTCs related to the exhaust. A message in the dash will store an error code.

If you suspect the wire looms, you can swap the right and left wire looms to see if the issue moves to the other side.

If you suspect the actuators, those also can be swapped right and left.

If everything seems to work fine after getting warmed up, then it's likely your valves are dirty and sticking. You'd need to drop the exhaust to access everything. You can use brake cleaner to clear all out where the spring sits. which tends to collect a lot of small rocks. Additionally, the valves should turn easily/freely by hand when the actuators are off.

Also, you can also try doing an exhaust actuator relearn (it's also available in ForSCAN): https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/active-exhaust-sounds-like-crap.121345/post-2920036

I have no way of predicting what the dealer will blame, and later what they will choose to cover under warranty.

Most lubricants will burn off when the exhaust heats up. You need high-temperature copper spray, if anything.

Scan your car for DTCs related to the exhaust. A message in the dash will store an error code.

If you suspect the wire looms, you can swap the right and left wire looms to see if the issue moves to the other side.

If you suspect the actuators, those also can be swapped right and left.

If everything seems to work fine after getting warmed up, then it's likely your valves are dirty and sticking. You'd need to drop the exhaust to access everything. You can use brake cleaner to clear all out where the spring sits. which tends to collect a lot of small rocks. Additionally, the valves should turn easily/freely by hand when the actuators are off.

Also, you can also try doing an exhaust actuator relearn (it's also available in ForSCAN): https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/active-exhaust-sounds-like-crap.121345/post-2920036

Miamigt350.
I am trying the re-learn and never get the clicking.. Only get valve clicking or motion just after start up. Tried the procedure patiently several times. May try taking the top off and cleaning. So aggravating as this was a main feature I felt was a must have when I bought the car last month.

 

[junits15]

How is it getting the actuator seated properly? Can’t imagine that’s super easy given how the motor sits?

You don’t need to seat the actuator any special way, you can run the actuator calibration after installing and it will just take care of itself.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/active-exhaust-sounds-like-crap.121345/post-2920036

You can get away with not even running this by just cycling between quiet and track, it will click them back into place too. I’ve done this a few times now, it always works.

 

[junits15]

Same. The actuator motor yes. But the actual valve/body no.

The actuator is 100% removable without dropping the exhaust. The valve is obviously not because it’s welded in.

 

[SnowFox]

The actuator is 100% removable without dropping the exhaust. The valve is obviously not because it’s welded in.

I agree. That's what I was saying. It sounded like somebody was saying they could take the whole valve off without dropping the exhuast.

Technically...you could..with a sawzall

 

[Mustang Tally]

I had the same issue. Best way I resolved it was to change the fuse 15amp, then tape up the wiring harness it’s most probably catching on the frame. Very simple fix and here’s a link if you need a walk through.

 

[PHILTHY_PONY]

I have no way of predicting what the dealer will blame, and later what they will choose to cover under warranty.

Most lubricants will burn off when the exhaust heats up. You need high-temperature copper spray, if anything.

Scan your car for DTCs related to the exhaust. A message in the dash will store an error code.

If you suspect the wire looms, you can swap the right and left wire looms to see if the issue moves to the other side.

If you suspect the actuators, those also can be swapped right and left.

If everything seems to work fine after getting warmed up, then it's likely your valves are dirty and sticking. You'd need to drop the exhaust to access everything. You can use brake cleaner to clear all out where the spring sits. which tends to collect a lot of small rocks. Additionally, the valves should turn easily/freely by hand when the actuators are off.

Also, you can also try doing an exhaust actuator relearn (it's also available in ForSCAN): https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/active-exhaust-sounds-like-crap.121345/post-2920036

Shit I didn't know you could swap the plugs i mean I'm assuming that's what you mean, I know wires in my pass side plug were damaged i separated them then threw some silicone on them to stop them from touching and put a chunk of fuel line split in half over the frame piece the harness hits. I also did same as buddy above sprayed them both gave the one valve a bit of a poke with rachet extention thinking it was stuck. Anyway I went in recently and they want $130CAD for that chunk of wire with plug on it, i just don't want to waste money if not the issue, so if I can swap cables I can see if it'll start on drivers side then I'll know 100% it's bad plug. Mine when set in quiet start will fire up and it'll open/close continuously until I go out and manually put into sport mode, if I put it into normal mode once I hit certain rpm or something it'll open into sport or track on its own only way I can get to stay in one mode if to put into sport mode and it'll work. I have headers going on this week and really need to get this figured out, shit is going to get loud be nice to have some control over it even if only helps a little still better then nothing.

 

[WD Pro]

I put it into normal mode once I hit certain rpm or something it'll open into sport or track on its own

That bit is normal - the valves aren't in a fixed position dictated by mode :



WD

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