Rotors with inverted cooling

[Bull Run]

For everyone's reference, these are GTPP backplates that arrived today, which are just enough to cover the ball joints and allow air reach backside. They took about two weeks to arrive and I couldn't wait as I need to season the new rotors before I can brake hard to fully test the used GTPP calipers before their 30-day return window closes. So I just cut the existing backplates into a similar shape. I'm just going to throw them in with the old rotors when I'm ready to sell them (after the calipers are tested to be good).

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[Bull Run]

Honestly haven't sorted all of that out yet. No plans to do anything with the rears, just front if I can figure out a way to get an inlet built.

Just realized that you have 2018 so the JLT is out of the question...

 

[Dr. Norts]

For everyone's reference, these are GTPP backplates that arrived today, which are just enough to cover the ball joints and allow air reach backside. They took about two weeks to arrive and I couldn't wait as I need to season the new rotors before I can brake hard to fully test the used GTPP calipers before their 30-day return window closes. So I just cut the existing backplates into a similar shape. I'm just going to throw them in with the old rotors when I'm ready to sell them (after the calipers are tested to be good).

How much were the backing plates?

You have a link to where you picked up those rotors from?

Eventually when I upgrade my rotors I'd like to go this route, since the upgraded PP links with the air deflectors are useless without the open back / rear cooling rotors.

 

[Bull Run]

How much were the backing plates?

You have a link to where you picked up those rotors from?

Eventually when I upgrade my rotors I'd like to go this route, since the upgraded PP links with the air deflectors are useless without the open back / rear cooling rotors.

Part numbers are FR3Z-2K004-H and FR3Z-2K005-H. I got them at https://www.tascaparts.com for $3.33 each with $9.18 shipping, which came out to $15.84. Shipping seemed high relative to the unit cost but they ended up being cheaper overall compared to other places with free shipping.

 

[Blue Moon]

Another vote here for the Baer Eradispeed+ rotors. They look great, work great, and are whole lot lighter than OE rotors (which I now have in my trunk for winter ballast).

 

[BmacIL]

I have a hard time doing this for even their plain finish eradispeed rotors @ $685 when I can get a full GT PP brembo setup for about the same. Obviously they're lighter.

 

[re-rx7]

I have a hard time doing this for even their plain finish eradispeed rotors @ $685 when I can get a full GT PP brembo setup for about the same. Obviously they're lighter.

Im in the same boat. THe 50th anniversary kit is about 100-150 more.

 

[2015Etrac]

I have a hard time doing this for even their plain finish eradispeed rotors @ $685 when I can get a full GT PP brembo setup for about the same. Obviously they're lighter.

Same here. I was looking into the Baer and Giro disc front rotors for the Performance Pack brakes I'm installing but I think $1,000 for just the fronts are a lot, especially since I'll rarely, if ever, track the car.

 

[2015Etrac]

I seen Raxiom makes a halo LED fog light for the 2015-2017 cars which is hollow in the middle. I was thinking about buying a cooling kit and using the Raxiom lights as an air inlet, apparently it works, I seen someone posted before about using a JLT brake cooling kit with them. Seems to be a good option for people who want a brake cooling option while keeping fog lights. They actually look really nice too, though not as bright as the factory ones.

 

[Blue Moon]

I seen Raxiom makes a halo LED fog light for the 2015-2017 cars which is hollow in the middle. I was thinking about buying a cooling kit and using the Raxiom lights as an air inlet, apparently it works, I seen someone posted before about using a JLT brake cooling kit with them. Seems to be a good option for people who want a brake cooling option while keeping fog lights. They actually look really nice too, though not as bright as the factory ones.

I bought a set of those halo fog lights. Just waiting for warm weather to put them in.

 

[2015Etrac]

I bought a set of those halo fog lights. Just waiting for warm weather to put them in.

They do look good. If I decide my brakes need more cooling I plan to buy the Raxiom lights with the JLT cooling kit.

 

[metroplex]

This is an old thread but I wanted to chime in...

Those inverted vane rotor designs started coming out in MY2013 for the Taurus SHO / Explorer Sport / Police Interceptors on the front. Rumor was that when they started testing the 2010 SHO, and 2011-2012 Explorers, the first things that most people found out were the front brakes easily faded. Some of the internal testers said that on the SHO, Brembos needed to be standard/optional. But they drilled the rotor hats and used inverted vanes starting in 2013 on the 352mm "HD" front brakes. I personally have not heard of any heat issues with this rotor design. The air flow is supposed to come from the outside of the wheel for better cooling as it was also intended for police applications. The marketing for the SHO basically said the Perf Package trim gives you a 4-door family car where you can drop the kids off to school, track the car for a few hot laps, and then pick up groceries on the way home.

The newer SHO/Explorers with 352mm HD front brakes went back to normal vane positions and un-drilled rotor hats like on my 2018 Explorer and all of the OE-level Motorcraft replacements did the same as well. The only way to get the drilled hats with inverted vanes are with High Service Level Motorcraft replacements or aftermarket. Rumor was there are NVH issues with the drilled hats and inverted vanes - but nothing I ever noticed. My 2017 Fusion Sport has the inverted vanes and undrilled rotor hats (like the S550 rotors above) but at 13.6" front instead of 13.8" front. Again, I never experienced any heat/fading issues or NVH issues.

Also note that the SHO Performance Package and Police Interceptors have cut-down brake dust shields as well, these are only $5 each but basically they shaved down the shields for maximum rotor exposure but only on the fronts. My guess is the drilled hats still allow more air flow into the vanes with the cut-down shields. I will say that my SHO fared much better in 4 years of driving in Michigan year-round with salty winters as the rotors were relatively rust-free. My 2018 Explorer after 2 winter seasons have an unbelievable amount of rust in the rotors and vanes because they are conventional rotors and it is hard to rinse out all of the rotors with the standard cooling vanes. I found on the inverted vanes if I hit the hub area with water, it would quickly squirt through all of the vanes and clear it of salt.

The S550s here that track their Mustangs won't give a damn about anything I wrote above because they don't see any winter/salt driving, and probably run bigger aftermarket brakes with ducts, etc.... but I thought I'd chime in.

 

[K4fxd]

The S550s here that track their Mustangs won't give a damn about anything I wrote

That is good info.

I do track mine and had horrendous brake fade with the stock inverted vane rotors. I made one warm up lap and about 3/4 of a fast lap at NCM full course.

I went with Steeda's two piece for the fix.

 

[TeeLew]

That is good info.

I do track mine and had horrendous brake fade with the stock inverted vane rotors. I made one warm up lap and about 3/4 of a fast lap at NCM full course.

I went with Steeda's two piece for the fix.

I get the feeling that previous guy would have been good with 10" drums.

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