Research for my first FI build

[GTAG07]

I own a 2016 Mustang GT/CS (auto) that is bone stock right now. I have been lurking on here for several months now, especially on the Forced Induction forum. I’ve done my best to not be that guy that repeats all of the obvious questions that have already been discussed, but I think I’m at a point where I’d like some guidance. Side note…upon describing my build plans to a fellow mustang owner I was essentially called a disgrace to mustang mod-ers and a liability to everyone around me, because I was shortcutting everything. I mention this only to emphasize that I would like your candid as well, because I fully intend to be educated and safe with this build. Others have said my plans are good. Now I'm looking for feedback from the community. On to the fun part…

GOALS:
Sleeper daily driver with an extra punch to play with, but still good drivability. Driven 70 highway miles a day during weekdays. I may occasionally go to the strip to see what it can do, but very rarely. I will not be going to circuit tracks. I do not want to go e85 or require an engine re-build for the initial setup. Ideally, I’d like this setup to survive until 100k miles (at 27k already) upon which time I will sell or re-build the engine. Would prefer to not wake the neighborhood upon my arrival so I’m hoping for a fairly quiet setup. I think about 650-700 crank hp is about what my power target is; anything higher will probably be unfeasible for my goals.

ENGINE:
-Beefcake Special Procharger HO SC Kit
-P-1SC head unit
-Helical gearset for noise reduction
-standard HO intercooler
-vortech BAP
-ID 1050 injectors
-Lund tune
-Mak Hurricane Inlet Pipe
-Billet OPG & Sprocket (still on the fence on this)
-Catch-can
-Boost gauge/pod for monitoring
(Stock exhaust/intake)

DRIVETRAIN:
-Driveshaft safety loop

SUSPENSION, BRAKES, & TIRES:
-NT555R tires
(Stock suspension/brakes)

DRIVER:
This mustang is my first car above 250 hp. I’ve beaten other cars hard, but its different when there’s this much power. I’ve eased into the stock GT, and now I’m very comfortable playing with advancedtrac off. If/when I add power, I will certainly ease into it again so I don’t do anything stupid, and that may lead to more mods if it feels unsafe.

So that’s my build plan so far. The concerns that my mustang acquaintance brought up were that you have to upgrade everything (suspension, brakes, tires, etc.) to safely drive a FI setup. Also, he said that you can’t daily drive a supercharger setup in the Texas heat and expect it to last long. That seems to contradict some of the things I’ve read on here, but he’s got decades of experience doing this so it does give me pause. The main thing I’m still pondering is if I’m driving a 650 hp car, do I need to steeda-out my suspension even if I’m not turning hard on a track or obsessing over launch performance? Also, what drive situations would require me to need aftermarket brakes?

Thanks for all of the knowledge you’ve shared on the forums already, I look forward to hearing what everyone thinks.

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[FIVE_LITER]

You dont need to upgrade suspension and brakes

 

[Crackerjack17]

Dude, I think you are on point. You don't have to upgrade suspension stuff. Stock will handle what you want just fine. Add a reische gen2 170 thermostat. With my lund tune and 170 thermostat, coolant stays pegged at 185. Lund turns the fans on earlier and full blast. My temps are very consistant with the lund tune.

 

[GTAG07]

Ya I've seen the thermostat mentioned here and there, wasn't exactly sure what it did. I saw that was an upgrade on the beefcake website too. Sounds like a good investment especially for my hot climate and occasional highway traffic.

 

[dubster99]

Tell your friend he's a pus*y ass bitch, add the reische 170, do rolling burnouts in front of his house at 3am.

 

[Black Dog]

This is the kit I bought. There are a bunch of these on the streets. So much win with this kit and it performs. Go ask about this kit on some Mustang face book pages. All good reviews. http://www.lpfbuilt.com/2015-2017-S550-50-Twin-Turbo-Kit_p_167.html No belts to rob you of power and awesome fuel economy even on E85.

 

[JennyStang]

For you crank goal. Don't waste money on ids unless you play on going e85 and upgrading your fuel system. Also no need for opg at that power level, stay under 7500rpm and don't bounce off the rev limiter.

 

[GTAG07]

Ya on here I've seen that >700 crank is where OPG is needed, but I'm leaning towards doing it for piece of mind when I get higher in mileage.

 

[venumous]

In TX why not get the Stage 2 IC? I don't have an auto but I would think a new 1 piece driveshaft is a good idea for the track (assuming it is the same as the M6)?

 

[jhatley7]

Centri guys correct me if I'm wrong, but don't the all make noise at idle? Via the bov? Thinking that and the bigass intercooler may throw off the sleeper goal.

 

[whatsup62]

Centri guys correct me if I'm wrong, but don't the all make noise at idle? Via the bov? Thinking that and the bigass intercooler may throw off the sleeper goal.

Not with all...I have the helical cut gears on my PC and the stock pro-flo valve. This is a very quiet combo. Lightly painted my IC and run pretty much in stealth mode.

 

[venumous]

Yep just paint IC black and you're good with helical gears and proflow BOV.

 

[GTAG07]

Thanks for the feedback y'all. Good to know I'm not taking crazy pills.

 

[sigintel]

Tracking a Whippled 15 at 10 psi in Austin summer. Run 235CHT short course DAM, 230 medium, 225 Harris Hill, 220 MSR Houston, anything longer/faster like TWS or COTA 205-220 at 90-100F.

Staying around 600-650 rwhp my opinion is:
Skip opg,tg and just pull crank damper and upgrade ATI if it works w your kit belt setup.
If not compatible ATI, then pull entire front cover and do opg,tg.
Or, keep rev limiter hard at 7500 and aim for 7200 shift points, no continuous 7500+ limiter bouncing.

Skip shaft loop. Our stock shafts are two piece and supported mid length. The 6R80 auto greatly absorbs driveline shock, it should be impossible to bust shaft with hot fresh burnout on 555R on good prep unless you like to stay in throttle w wheel hop trying to break shit.

GT350/PP radiator or better is a must. Reische 170 is a must. Open rear of hood by removing cowl, battery cover, and weather strip. Run 50/50 OEM coolant only without water wetter.

Stock brakes and suspension are good to go.

Stock fuel w 72# or higher injector should be fine 600-650 without BAP. Durability wise, I dont track w BAP as raising voltage w extreme Texas heat does NOT improve pump durability.

Again, just my limited opinion.

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