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Saving for my first blower project, lots of questions

spacemarine83

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y OK gents, here goes-

My wife has enthusiastically agreed to a power adder for the Mustang since i agreed to take her to Ireland on a vacation this summer. That puts me into the fall/winter for my blower purchase and build. So, on to the car details and questions. (Beware, this is a long post.)

The Car and climate-

2017 GT Mustang Premium, non power package, 6spd, 3:31 gears. 3700 miles, owned since July 30 2017. I drive roughly 7.5 miles a day and the car basically gets warmed up and turned off. I live in Oregon, so we do get rain roughly 8-9 months out of the year. Our temps range from 20 degrees during a very cold winter, to over 100 degrees in the summer and we see quite a bit of rain. The car is my daily driver and kid hauler. I also am fairly kind to the car, and don't really push it past 5000 rpm, mostly doing what I would consider daily driving around town at 2000-3500 rpm max.

What I am looking for-

I am looking for a power adder that adds a nice, large flat torque curve while retaining daily driving manners. I do not need or want a high strung FI system if at all possible, just something that gives more power all over the curve in a consistent manner. I do plan on doing a couple of autocross sessions with it, but no road racing or drag racing. Mostly road driving with an extra punch when I want it.

The questions-

#1- Given the short drive with occassional weekend runs to the beach in nice weather, am I biting off more than I can chew with a considering a blower? have you found that driving a blown GT to be a problem over short distances where the car is only warmed up but not driven a lot?

#2- Reliability, how has it been for you? I am looking for a safe tune setup and not really looking to build crazy power and a really low 1/4 mile time. I am looking at the Ford Racing/ Roush 670hp blower kit and was wondering if anyone has experienced a failure of the blower, associated parts, and/or motor/trans with the complete out of the box kit.

#3- I have the MT82, with the MGW shifter and BG fluid in the transmission, and are there any issues with running 600+hp through that transmission?and do I need anything to ensure the transmission lasts assuming no crazy abuse? Also, will I need to put in a new clutch at the same time I do the supercharger installation?

#4- Tires and supporting mods are a big one I find after reading through a ton of posts here on Mustang6g. I am going to go with a set of 19x10 LMR GT350 wheels and a 275mm square tire setup. Is this enough tire width, assuming I use good rubber? (Looking at the PS4S tires as a strong contender at this point.) Also, I am going to be going with the OPG, probably from Livernois Motorsports and doing the install of the gears at the same time as the supercharger. Having said that, do I need to (or should I) upgrade the radiator? I am looking at Mishimoto radiator as a replacement for the stock unit if it is something that is a good idea to do while I am already working on the car. Also, other posters have commented on the harmonic balancer? Is this something that is needed, and if so, why and what brand do you recommend? Finally, as far as engine internals go, is there anything else I need?


It is a long post, but figured I would start asking and getting the funds set aside.:) Thanks for reading and putting up with my long winded questions.

Update-

Going with the procharger unit, questions on page 3!
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MyLilPony

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My 2 cents...

Everything you want can be bolted on in less than 8 hours...Procharger Stage 1 kit and be done. Here is why using your questions...

1. No issues driving short distances, just stay out of boost unless your oil is up to temp. The PC is a VERY streetable kit and drive like stock if you don't mess with pulleys etc... PC kits pull like stock too, very predicable power and VERY linear! below 3500 you wont even notice it. It does tend to be a bit noisy but in a good way. Like sitting at a stoplight and everyone looks at you kinda way. My kids enjoy that :) You will have every rice boy try to give you a run though. If you don't like that, get the straight cut gears and you will be quite.

2. I cant speak to long term and mine is a 2015 and i only have 10k on the car. BUT it has been a very FUN 10k. No issues, bolt up, tune and drive!!! So easy for sooooo much fun!! I seriously doubt there will be any longevity issues with the car. in stock kit form (like the one i said you should get), I would expect the motor to last 100k plus.

3. MT82 sucks but you will be perfectly fine. ***take with grain of salt, i love my 6r80 :) There are a lot of folks on here crushing 700+ hp on the MT82 with no issues. Although some will say they are on borrowed time. For your goals though I would say you are just fine!

4. if you are going with a 10 inch rear go with a 295 and something a little stickier than the Ohtsu tires LMR sells their deals with. NT555 or something similar. With out a DR you will break loose in 1st and second pretty easy at 590ish HP. That's what you can expect with the bolt on HO kit.

4. Cont... I live in the greatest country in the world, Texas, and my radiator works great even well above 100. Get the 170 thermostat and you will be good. OPG and TS are good safety measures especially when you are ready to rev above 7500. it wont be long until that happens once you get use to your new found HP.

4. cont...cont... No need for the balancer if you are doing your OPG. That is like having a tertiary network in place when you already have redundancy. Who ever uses that anyway?!? :)
 

Boduke0220

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I'm in the same boat, I live in NC so it gets into the 20s occasionally and touches 100 sometimes in the summer. I daily my car. About 40 miles a day, mt-82 and 3.31s. I went vmp with an 82mm pulley and 93 octane with a Lund tune. I also did opg and cs while I was in there. It has been flawless for the 1500 miles I've had it on. Drives like stock until about 2500 where you better hang on. I think vmp or whipple is the way to go. I would recommend upgrading to a good heat exchanger. My iat's are usually 40-50 above ambient and I don't really like that. I can putt around town like a grandpa ( I'm 25 but don't really beat on my car) or rip a hellcat a new one. Whatever I want to do. My 86 year old grandma could drive this car, and I average 20.5 mpg which is awesome to me. Mt-82 had only locked me out once but I don't have any transmission mods yet so I really can't complain. It was well worth it. Also blows the tires off from a 40 roll so get some good rubber assp
 

Obsol3te

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Nice and large flat torque curve, i'd go with a positive displacement blower. I do however suggest you purchase the higher potential whipple/kenne bell units though.
While the roots blowers do make good power, they usually generate more heat and you typically have to spin them faster.

As far as reliability. I have had my KB on my car for about a year now, 10,000 miles. No issues. Drives with better pedal feel than N/A(the motor feels torquey down low again like my old pushrods) and it has a nice linear partial pedal power curve as well. Go with a good tuner and you'll be fine man. Ken Bjonnes is hard to beat(ive had Lund as well on my setup and Ken's is worlds above).

The tranny, as long as you dont put a sticky tire under your rear end you will be perfeclty fine with the MT82 and stock clutch. I have an MGW shifter and Amsoil in the tranny and nothing else. Again, 10k+ miles and no issues... The tires just give up. I do plan on upgrading to the RXT clutch this spring though.

Anything but a decent drag radial or bias ply slick is going to spin. And depending on the temps you might not have traction until almost triple digits.
It gets ridiculous, but remember, traction breaks parts.
 

MyLilPony

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If you are worried about IAT's and timing being pulled or over heating a centri is the way to go...the highest IAT's I see is +6 over ambient even at 100+ outside

Everyone will give you their opinion so good luck with your choice :)
 

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16MustangVet

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Paxton!

Game Over nothing else compares hp per dollar.

Id give beefcake a call do paxton beefcake special and oil pump upgrades too.
 

ProChargerTECH

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If you are worried about IAT's and timing being pulled or over heating a centri is the way to go...the highest IAT's I see is +6 over ambient even at 100+ outside

We do have a killer IAT. :) Which makes for loads of power back to back to back to back to back.

And as far as the "TQ" curve... well on pump gas, I think people are starting to realize that we are a LOT closer to the same curve as the PD's then most will realize. :) Especially on these high compression motors, that don't like boost down low, and have variable cam timing to help us make the most of the power at hand. :)
 
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spacemarine83

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Thanks for the quick responses! So, I did call Procharger this morning, and they answered most of my questions. The main thing that the tech did really expound on was overall driveability on stock components. He said that to date, they have had no failures of engines as a result of using the Procharger. He did advise for the upgraded package over the base procharger kit. I do see that LMR.com has the HO kit for right about 6k.

I also called my local Ford dealership where I bought the car. They advised me that they could install the Ford Racing 2.3 kit, and that (and I quote) it retained the factory warranty. They stated that the did not have any cars come back for warranty work and they run really, really well. However, if my research is correct the warranty is transferred to Ford Racing or Roush for the engine IIRC. The cost out of the door was $8300 installed and would take 2 days. So, there is that. Overall that is a quite the price difference to say the least, but if I have this right, its really just two different ways of getting to the same goal.

So far I have a lot of research to do and it looks like I will be looking at some dyno graphs. If you guys have any, please feel free to share them. Really kinda torn on this one.

The one thing I do know is on the list is the 19x10 GT350 wheels from LMR. That is a done deal for the build.
 

ProChargerTECH

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Thanks for the quick responses! So, I did call Procharger this morning, and they answered most of my questions. The main thing that the tech did really expound on was overall driveability on stock components. He said that to date, they have had no failures of engines as a result of using the Procharger. He did advise for the upgraded package over the base procharger kit. I do see that LMR.com has the HO kit for right about 6k.

I also called my local Ford dealership where I bought the car. They advised me that they could install the Ford Racing 2.3 kit, and that (and I quote) it retained the factory warranty. They stated that the did not have any cars come back for warranty work and they run really, really well. However, if my research is correct the warranty is transferred to Ford Racing or Roush for the engine IIRC. The cost out of the door was $8300 installed and would take 2 days. So, there is that. Overall that is a quite the price difference to say the least, but if I have this right, its really just two different ways of getting to the same goal.

So far I have a lot of research to do and it looks like I will be looking at some dyno graphs. If you guys have any, please feel free to share them. Really kinda torn on this one.

The one thing I do know is on the list is the 19x10 GT350 wheels from LMR. That is a done deal for the build.
My buddy says it best with his quote.... "you can't race a dyno sheet"

And a lot of people will post up "glory runs" from when the car is dead cold, no back to back runs, and the absolutely PERFECT case scenario.

I can say that our "bang for the buck" entry level HO system, with a good tune for your fuel, can net you 10 second performance at the track. After all there is a member of this very forum that has done just that, and even gone faster now with a little more boost.

Buy the right system for your goals, and don't be oversold. :)
 

Angry50

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Thanks for the quick responses! So, I did call Procharger this morning, and they answered most of my questions. The main thing that the tech did really expound on was overall driveability on stock components. He said that to date, they have had no failures of engines as a result of using the Procharger. He did advise for the upgraded package over the base procharger kit. I do see that LMR.com has the HO kit for right about 6k.

I also called my local Ford dealership where I bought the car. They advised me that they could install the Ford Racing 2.3 kit, and that (and I quote) it retained the factory warranty. They stated that the did not have any cars come back for warranty work and they run really, really well. However, if my research is correct the warranty is transferred to Ford Racing or Roush for the engine IIRC. The cost out of the door was $8300 installed and would take 2 days. So, there is that. Overall that is a quite the price difference to say the least, but if I have this right, its really just two different ways of getting to the same goal.

So far I have a lot of research to do and it looks like I will be looking at some dyno graphs. If you guys have any, please feel free to share them. Really kinda torn on this one.

The one thing I do know is on the list is the 19x10 GT350 wheels from LMR. That is a done deal for the build.
no real bad choice really just preference.. i have the roush phase 1 and the warranty is just as any other.. i had transmission work done at the local dealership with no concern to me.. they replaced 1st and 2nd gear synchros
 

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spacemarine83

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We do have a killer IAT. :) Which makes for loads of power back to back to back to back to back.

And as far as the "TQ" curve... well on pump gas, I think people are starting to realize that we are a LOT closer to the same curve as the PD's then most will realize. :) Especially on these high compression motors, that don't like boost down low, and have variable cam timing to help us make the most of the power at hand. :)
SO I do like the apparent lack of complexity of the Procharger install. Is it really something I can do over say a weekend in my garage? After reading the instruction manual, it seemed a whole lot less complex than the Ford Racing unit (whipple?).
 

venumous

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My buddy says it best with his quote.... "you can't race a dyno sheet"

And a lot of people will post up "glory runs" from when the car is dead cold, no back to back runs, and the absolutely PERFECT case scenario.

I can say that our "bang for the buck" entry level HO system, with a good tune for your fuel, can net you 10 second performance at the track. After all there is a member of this very forum that has done just that, and even gone faster now with a little more boost.

Buy the right system for your goals, and don't be oversold. :)
Yep, I made 678/673/680 in back to back to back pulls.

Procharger Stage 1 would be a great option for the OP. Idk if I'd even do OPGs sticking to the factory rev limiter, maybe I would.. For tires on a DD like that it is tough. MPSSs wont hold the power in 1st or 2nd and DRs aren't great in the rain, though 555Rs do ok (have to have 18s or 20s). MT82 will likely be ok for DDing but for auto-x I'd start to worry a bit. Id be ready to go to a T6060 or something if needed. Your radiator will be fine with the PC. As was stated Reisch 170 degree TStat and you're good for amazing temps.
 

venumous

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SO I do like the apparent lack of complexity of the Procharger install. Is it really something I can do over say a weekend in my garage? After reading the instruction manual, it seemed a whole lot less complex than the Ford Racing unit (whipple?).
With moderate mechanical skill it can easily be done in a full day.
 
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spacemarine83

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Yep, I made 678/673/680 in back to back to back pulls.

Procharger Stage 1 would be a great option for the OP. Idk if I'd even do OPGs sticking to the factory rev limiter, maybe I would.. For tires on a DD like that it is tough. MPSSs wont hold the power in 1st or 2nd and DRs aren't great in the rain, though 555Rs do ok (have to have 18s or 20s). MT82 will likely be ok for DDing but for auto-x I'd start to worry a bit. Id be ready to go to a T6060 or something if needed. Your radiator will be fine with the PC. As was stated Reisch 170 degree TStat and you're good for amazing temps.
Thanks for the information, I am going to be keeping the stock rev limit and am looking for bolt on power essentially. One thing to keep in mind is that I do not road race, or drag race the car.

For the OPG, I was under the impression that it is a must when installing a power adder. However, would this mean that the power packs 2 and 3 would also need it given the higher rev limt?

Realistically, I rarely shift at 6500, and have only shifted at redline once to see how the car responded. (It like srevs:), my wife not so much...:lol:)
 

MyLilPony

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SO I do like the apparent lack of complexity of the Procharger install. Is it really something I can do over say a weekend in my garage? After reading the instruction manual, it seemed a whole lot less complex than the Ford Racing unit (whipple?).
I did it in 8hr if you aggregate the time. The funny thing is, removing the front bumper is the hardest part lol. But I have taken that off a few times so it isn't really that hard. I have a stage 2 with id1000's, bap, and other stuff so a basic HO I would guess could be done in <6. Basic isn't really basic though, maybe a wrong word choice...

Roush blower you need to grind the block. Whipple you pull your intake manifold off add fans and heat exchanger etc.... PC you bolt on the blower, bolt on the Intercooler, plug and play the rest. No one will argue PC is the easiest install.

Don't get me wrong, I was 50-50 between whipple and PC. PC offered the drivability I wanted, ease of upgrade and $ for $ was best bang for the buck. Lethal and Beefcake are your best choices to buy. I went through Lethal because of Chris.
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