Saving for my first blower project, lots of questions

[spacemarine83]

Awesome responses gents!

So I am really, really liking the Procharger versus say the Roots blower. Looks to be more controllable power if you will. In an effort to keep the quote tree down I am going to post some questions with the username so that it doesn't get confusing.

Crackerjack- From your experience, is the power on the higher end uncontrollable in turn? I ask because you mention that I would have to really be on my game in mid turn under power. Would this be under WOT type power?

JHatley7- You mention needing a clutch, halfshafts and supporting suspension mods. What would you mean by supporting suspension mods? Would that be a full kit from say ford, steeda, bmr, or otherwise? IF it was only buts and pieces, what would you recommend?

Venumous- Yeah, I do plan on running the Michellins, and I am wondering if the PS4S will let the car hook in moderate weather with an outside temp of say 70-95 degrees. Also, at what point do I need to look at replacing the halfshafts and why?

ProchargerTech- More of a shout out to a potential customer leaning towards buying one of your units.

To all- On the subject of of OPG, I have seen some state that its not needed because I wont push the car past stock redline parameters, but some still do it. Can you guys explain why it is needed (or at what point it is or is not needed) when using a Procharger or another centri unit? Also, is it mainly for peace of mind and an insurance factor?

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[ProChargerTECH]

All I can add is this....

Since 2011, we have had a load of company owned (used and very abused) coyote cars with our superchargers. After all the model years, and all the miles... all of these cars remain stone stock (down to replacing tires with OEM tires) and we have NEVER suffered any kinda failure of engine or driveline.

 

[Mustang_Lou]

All I can add is this....

Since 2011, we have had a load of company owned (used and very abused) coyote cars with our superchargers. After all the model years, and all the miles... all of these cars remain stone stock (down to replacing tires with OEM tires) and we have NEVER suffered any kinda failure of engine or driveline.

I know someone who's got a '94 Cobra with a Procharger on it and still going strong. I think the way the power is delivered (ie. no big torque hit that can bend a rod <- happened to me when I spiked to 21 psi in 1st gear on a turbo car) is what makes it more reliable. You may not get the neck snap as you would in a PD blower but instead it's a steady build through the rpm range.

 

[venumous]

At 600whp you're not going to hook on any street tire, period. Don't launch the car from a stop and you won't wheel hop either. You'll be fine on the stock halfshafts. I definitely would spend the money elsewhere if I were in your situation. Even the stock clutch will hold for some period of time as long as you're not slipping it, though it will obviously fail quicker.

 

[Crackerjack17]

Awesome responses gents!

Crackerjack- From your experience, is the power on the higher end uncontrollable in turn? I ask because you mention that I would have to really be on my game in mid turn under power. Would this be under WOT type power?

It's not uncontrollable at all, you just have to be careful(at least on the stock PP tires). I was just trying to give you an idea of how the power comes on. The power curve is very linear and when the rpm's start heading towards 4-5k that's when it really starts picking up power, quickly. hmmm, how to explain... let see, so there is an on ramp I frequent and it starts off straight, so I roll onto it in second, but can't give full throttle because of wheel spin, so then I short shift to third, WOT, it's accelerating, 7k , shift to 4th, on ramp starts to bend to the right slightly and right in middle of bend i'm hitting 5.5-6.5k, I have to lift a little because rear end is getting light and power is coming on bigtime. (take note, this is also on summer tires in 30-40 degree weather)

Just today, I was out and it's 30-35 degrees again. stock Pirelli PP wheels are on it right now and I was getting wheel spin in 3rd gear at 70mph when WOT in a straight line.

I would say anytime you are operating in the higher rpm's under wot, you have to ready for wheels spin unless you get some pretty sticky tires and or it's not freezing out. But that's what's awesome about the centri. Drive it normal and it's normal. under 4k, it's like a regular mustang basically.

I don't do hard launches and I'm not trying to win any shifting contests, so I'm not concerned with the stock clutch or half-shafts either at this point. If I decide I want to go to the track, I may get half-shafts and a clutch down the road.

 

[jhatley7]

Awesome responses gents!

JHatley7- You mention needing a clutch, halfshafts and supporting suspension mods. What would you mean by supporting suspension mods? Would that be a full kit from say ford, steeda, bmr, or otherwise? IF it was only buts and pieces, what would you recommend?

All I can add is this....

Since 2011, we have had a load of company owned (used and very abused) coyote cars with our superchargers. After all the model years, and all the miles... all of these cars remain stone stock (down to replacing tires with OEM tires) and we have NEVER suffered any kinda failure of engine or driveline.

Ok, it is really hard for others to tell you what you need to upgrade. We all drive our cars differently, even tho we are all racecar drivers! Only you know how you drive.

As for the supporting mods, I'm not saying they need to be purchased with your procharger but to start planning to replace those items. Halfshaft have been snapped by stock cars on stock tires, while there are 700+ hp cars running the 1/4 with drag Radials on stock shafts. Same with clutch. If you know how to properly use it, you won't have an issue for awhile. If this is your first clutch car not so much.

As for the suspension, again all depends on how you drive the car, the stock suspension is actually pretty good for most people's needs. BUT do you really want a 600 WHP mustang that doesn't hook? What if you decide to open her up, the tires break loose and you lose it? Or some kid in a civic thinks he is fast and when you punch it, all you do is spin. #losttocivic lol I am just starting my suspension mods. The kicker for me was while logging for my 1st Whipple tune, Still on stock tires, I was spinning all the way into 5th @ 116 mph. So 1-4 were useless @ WOT. Now i was at a different power level that you are wanting. So what's the point? Kind of like buying a big bad wakeboard boat and is sits in your driveway year round.

I have BMR Cb005 and vertical links installed. BMR springs and Viking rear shocks on order. I would suggest anything from BMR or Steada. Try and stay away from the NVH items, unless you want the inside of you car to sound like a racecar. I'm still trying to decide how much nvh i'm willing to endure. Most of your drivetrain issues/breaks are a direct result of more power with good rubber. Hence the statement about 100% stone stock with 0 issues.

Opg crank gear, while there have been issued with cars losing motors because of this, most if not all were above you power goal with raised rev limiter. Probably drove harder that you plan to as well. I did mine the same time as my Whipple. With the big picture in mind, they are cheap insurance.

Sry for the rant just trying to give another perspective. Good luck with whatever you decide!

 

[SoCalTim]

This is turning into quite a Procharger themed thread, lol :lol:

I'll add my 0.02 since I was recently in a very similar position to you OP.

I drive 7 miles to work every day, my car is only just up to normal temp before I arrive at work, so it barely gets any play time. Most of my driving is 2-4k rpm, with the occasional rips in 2nd and 3rd when traffic lets me.

I have enjoyed the stock power from my GT for about 16 months, not even putting a single tune or bolt-on, just 100% stock. I decided last summer that my goal was to make a Hellcat equivalent of my Mustang. 600hp-700hp range, but retaining good streetable road manners so the wife can drive the car to the grocery store and not kill herself.

I went in circles deciding between the Whipple, the Kenny Bell, the Roush, the Paxton the Procharger kits...all with different offerings and all making the power I was looking to achieve in 'Stage 1' or base level spec.

For me it was a flip of the coin between the Paxton and the Procharger. I ended up deciding my fate and bought the following kit this past month:

-Procharger HO Kit
-Upgraded to Stage 2 Large Intercooler (Only a $295 upgrade cost and living in a hot climate I wanted every bit of cooling efficiency)
-Upgraded to helical gears in the P1SC blower (Wanted to be as stealth mode as possible. It still whilstles beautifully and is a joy to the ears with the windows down!)

I got the full kit from [MENTION=10926]beefcake[/MENTION] for a steal of a price. Let me tell you that messaging him directly will get you a better price than any advertised prices you will find on LMR, Lethal etc...always PM the vendor for their best price.

The reason I chose the Procharger came down to these main reasons:

- I wanted to be able to install myself, and thus saves around $1500 in garage labor fees. The Procharger kit took me 2 evenings work, for about 10 hours total. That was taking my time, not rushing, and having RedBulls whilst chilling in the garage.

-Price point - As far as bang for the buck, the latest Procharger kits are great. You get the 1000cc DW injectors, a HP tuners N-Gauge with a canned tune. Everything you need to go very fast in one box.

I chose the complete kit, and whilst the canned tune did need some work to 'fine tune' it to my car after purchase, the car is running sweet and the customer support has been great thus far.

All I can say is the HO kit, as with any of these power adders, is FAST. You will be squirreling all over the road unless you put some good tires on, so definitely look into a decent rear tire set up. I've got 295 Michelin Super Sports on mine and they still will spin if I gun the throttle at 70mph


You really can't go wrong with any of the power adders. Everyone chose their kit for their own reasons/preferences, but that is my experience and reasoning on my recent Procharger purchase.

If you check my build thread 'Why so Blue? Tims Procharged GT' in the members build section, you will see I also had a garage install the OPG upgrade before installing the Procharger kit myself. I felt more comfortable having a shop do the OPG work (even though I could have done it myself, I wanted piece of mind) , but had not even a second thought about installing the Procharger kit. I would definitely recommend self installation if you at all mechanically inclined and save yourself the install costs.

Ok, enough from me...good luck in your search for your set up

 

[Mustang_Lou]

So why'd you choose the P1SC over the D1SC Tim?

 

[spacemarine83]

OK guys, after watching a ton of vids on youtube, the kind driving I do, and the overall lower cost and ease of install...I am going to go with the Procharger unit. My buy date is black friday 2017 for sales.

Does Mustang6g have a preferred vendor?

And HO kit or Stage II?

Also, supporting mods what should I sart considering now, or have done early? OPG perhaps?

So far for mods to go with the blower I have the SVE 19x10 gt350 wheels in black on the list. For tires, I am open to suggestion. My plan is to run a set of summer tires, and then use the stock wheels for winter tires 5 months out of the year.

 

[SolarFlare]

So why'd you choose the P1SC over the D1SC Tim?

If I had bought mine from a vendor I would've gone D1 because it's much cheaper compared to doing it later. I bought a brand new kit from someone who didn't install it and it was a P1. It was a good deal I couldn't turn away.

 

[Draklia]

So over in the ProCharger tune thread it looked like the guys who were datalogging were seeing 4 degrees of positive knock. One of them was able to get it to go away by buying race gas at $10+/gallon. It was kind of thrown out there that you have to be able to find good quality gas, which sounded like it's tough to find in the winter especially when 91 octane is all that's available. Any of you guys running 91 octane and not have high knock on the winter gas. Just thinking for a DD this might be an unforeseen issue to contend with.

 

[spacemarine83]

Here in Oregon, we have 92 octane year round in both summer and winter blends so I am thinking that might solve the issue. Anybody care to chime in?

 

[Draklia]

Here in Oregon, we have 92 octane year round in both summer and winter blends so I am thinking that might solve the issue. Anybody care to chime in?

I have been wondering how many have data logged to see if they are getting high knock or not.

 

[NavyChief122]

Here in Oregon, we have 92 octane year round in both summer and winter blends so I am thinking that might solve the issue. Anybody care to chime in?

Whwn I lived in Oregon I ran a 93 tune year round on 92. But I was in bend Oregon which is 5000 ft.

 

[SolarFlare]

Can't comment on that since I only use 93 here.

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