Recommendations for replacement lug nuts.

[MAGS1]

the silence. It is insightful. I shall meditate on your utterances.

It’s hard being proven wrong. I still remember the one time I was wrong. Worst day of my life

But seriously. I get it, we’re taught things over the years and those teachings stay relatively consistent and constant. Then Ford flips us on our heads with these torque values and we’re like WTF. But, thankfully, there’s experts out there (be they people here/elsewhere and/or credible websites) that explain it and tell us that yes, Ford is right. The larger bolt needs a higher torque spec due to clamping forces needed. And yes, these values will be lower if a lubricant is used. And if an aftermarket stud is used, follow those manufacturers torque specs. Change is hard

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[MAGS1]

I replied but it didn’t post. Haynes has the spec at 100 for my wife’s C6 Grand Sport. Has anyone asked a tire repair place what they torque to? I’ve never had a lug nut come loose on any car I have ever had over the last 30 years. IMHO I personally would be concerned that a lug nut might snap off the stud at 150 more than one becoming loose at 100. That said, torque to 150 if if prefer. Now, let’s talk about the 10-2 steering wheel hand position.

Ok and what size is the stud for the C6 GS? What material is used? Those things matter when talking torque specs. It’s not a one size fits all. C6 Vette torque specs does not equal S550 Mustang torque specs (unless the same studs are used, which I doubt).

Regarding tire shops, I’ve seen the guys at my Discount Tire go reference a book or computer before they torque my wheels down. Not sure if every shop does but they should.

 

[SheepDog]

I replied but it didn’t post. Haynes has the spec at 100 for my wife’s C6 Grand Sport. Has anyone asked a tire repair place what they torque to? I’ve never had a lug nut come loose on any car I have ever had over the last 30 years. IMHO I personally would be concerned that a lug nut might snap off the stud at 150 more than one becoming loose at 100. That said, torque to 150 if if prefer. Now, let’s talk about the 10-2 steering wheel hand position.

C6 has a 12mm x 1.5 stud, not a 14 MM stud like these Mustangs

 

[Kabayo]

Ok and what size is the stud for the C6 GS? What material is used? Those things matter when talking torque specs. It’s not a one size fits all. C6 Vette torque specs does not equal S550 Mustang torque specs (unless the same studs are used, which I doubt).

Regarding tire shops, I’ve seen the guys at my Discount Tire go reference a book or computer before they torque my wheels down. Not sure if every shop does but they should.

I don’t know the stud size, but the rear wheels are aluminum 19x12” with GM lug nuts. I haven’t been lucky enough to see a tire tech check the computer for a torque rating. My experience has been they have a certain amount of PSI in their impact wrench and tighten away. That why I always recheck when i get home.

 

[MAGS1]

I don’t know the stud size, but the rear wheels are aluminum 19x12” with GM lug nuts. I haven’t been lucky enough to see a tire tech check the computer for a torque rating. My experience has been they have a certain amount of PSI in their impact wrench and tighten away. That why I always recheck when i get home.

Ok, so per Sheepdog, the C6 has a 12mm stud which is what is driving the torque spec of 100 ft/lb (lb/ft if we’re saying it correctly). Aluminum wheel, carbon fiber wheel, steel wheel, doesn’t matter. It will be the same no matter what wheel is on there.

Always good to recheck when returning from a tire shop (or dealership). I’m always pleasantly surprised (guess I shouldn’t be surprised at this point considering I’ve been going to them for over 25 years) that my local Discount Tire hand torques the lugs, they don’t hit them with an impact. Not every place does that though I’m sure.

 

[Kabayo]

Ok, so per Sheepdog, the C6 has a 12mm stud which is what is driving the torque spec of 100 ft/lb (lb/ft if we’re saying it correctly). Aluminum wheel, carbon fiber wheel, steel wheel, doesn’t matter. It will be the same no matter what wheel is on there.

Always good to recheck when returning from a tire shop (or dealership). I’m always pleasantly surprised (guess I shouldn’t be surprised at this point considering I’ve been going to them for over 25 years) that my local Discount Tire hand torques the lugs, they don’t hit them with an impact. Not every place does that though I’m sure.

My wife has some pretty meaty tires on her GS which has to be putting a lot of stress on the lugs, but so far no wheel related issues at all, knock on wood.

 

[SheepDog]

which has to be putting a lot of stress on the lugs

Not as much as you might think actually. The load is primarily carried by the hub and the friction between the hub face and the wheel mating surface. It's really all about the surface area of the materials being squeezed together and the enormous amount of friction that creates. Im sure Tony will chime in when he is done getting his 2002 Sierra off the side of the road in that video above.

 

[MAGS1]

My wife has some pretty meaty tires on her GS which has to be putting a lot of stress on the lugs, but so far no wheel related issues at all, knock on wood.

What @SheepDog said. You would actually put more stress on the studs/lugs if it was under torqued because the hub face and the wheel wouldn’t be mated properly.

 

[Kabayo]

Not as much as you might think actually. The load is primarily carried by the hub and the friction between the hub face and the wheel mating surface. It's really all about the surface area of the materials being squeezed together and the enormous amount of friction that creates. Im sure Tony will chime in when he is done getting his 2002 Sierra off the side of the road in that video above.

Wouldn’t cornering change the dynamics of friction against the hubs with 12” wheels or 9” in the case of many Mustangs?

 

[Kabayo]

Wouldn’t cornering change the dynamics of friction against the hubs with 12” wheels or 9” in the case of many Mustangs?

Thanks for the replies and info Mags and Sheepdog, it gives me something to think about for sure.

 

[SheepDog]

Wouldn’t cornering change the dynamics of friction against the hubs with 12” wheels or 9” in the case of many Mustangs?

Yes, any time the amount of available grip increases, the more force is being applied to try and "separate" the wheel from the hub but even with slicks on a 12" wide wheel, you wont get there. As long as the nuts are torqued correctly, you will lose or spin the bead of the tire on the wheel before the wheel would ever shear away from the hub. This is why it is very important to make sure the hub and wheel mating surfaces are clean, no rust, no grease etc. between them.

Another interesting comparison would be the center lock/nut type wheels on some Porsche and other high end sports cars. Those get torqued to over 400 ft-lbs. You have a single giant nut doing all the work of providing the clamping force between wheel and hub. Now, since these are also aluminum alloy wheels, should we only torque them to 100 ft-lbs? Oh thats right, the wheel has nothing to do with anything.

 

[Kabayo]

Yes, any time the amount of available grip increases, the more force is being applied to try and "separate" the wheel from the hub but even with slicks on a 12" wide wheel, you wont get there. As long as the nuts are torqued correctly, you will lose or spin the bead of the tire on the wheel before the wheel would ever shear away from the hub. This is why it is very important to make sure the hub and wheel mating surfaces are clean, no rust, no grease etc. between them.

Another interesting comparison would be the center lock/nut type wheels on some Porsche and other high end sports cars. Those get torqued to over 400 ft-lbs. You have a single giant nut doing all the work of providing the clamping force between wheel and hub. Now, since these are also aluminum alloy wheels, should we only torque them to 100 ft-lbs? Oh thats right, the wheel has nothing to do with anything.

Honestly, I wouldn’t be comfortable driving any car that had the wheels held on with only one nut even at 400 ft lbs. Where would you even get a wrench capable of 400 lbs?

 

[shogun32]

My wife has some pretty meaty tires on her GS which has to be putting a lot of stress on the lugs

that's part of the fallacy. There is no sheer stress on the lugs since the friction from the clamping force is what is preventing relative motion between wheel and hub. If your studs or wheel holes are getting chewed up, there's something VERY wrong with your nut torque.

 

[SheepDog]

Honestly, I wouldn’t be comfortable driving any car that had the wheels held on with only one nut even at 400 ft lbs. Where would you even get a wrench capable of 400 lbs?

 

[MAGS1]

Honestly, I wouldn’t be comfortable driving any car that had the wheels held on with only one nut even at 400 ft lbs. Where would you even get a wrench capable of 400 lbs?

Ask NASCAR drivers if they’re comfortable with a single lug holding their wheels on flying around Daytona or Talladega. The NextGen cars moved to a single center lug. If they trust them, I wouldn’t be concerned.

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