Recommendations for more power while staying N/A

[jmeiers]

Once my tune is finished and the tracks open up, I am willing to line my ported CJ/FBO combo up against anyone with same mods but ported 18 and see who is faster. IMO, dyno don't mean shit but that graph shows more power coming in sooner on the CJ and holding it for way longer.

Again, the fastest N/A cars have a CJ on top, regardless of how anyone wants to skew a dyno graph.

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[CBass2288]

Once my tune is finished and the tracks open up, I am willing to line my ported CJ/FBO combo up against anyone with same mods but ported 18 and see who is faster. IMO, dyno don't mean shit but that graph shows more power coming in sooner on the CJ and holding it for way longer.

Again, the fastest N/A cars have a CJ on top, regardless of how anyone wants to skew a dyno graph.

All the required stuff for the Cobra Jet is in no way worth it to me, but I have to agree with you. Cobra Jet is king daddy if set up correctly, and all the fastest NA cars are using the Cobra Jet. Overall, I think a ported 18 takes the W just due to simplicity for a street car like OP mentioned, but for the strip and a car setup for a 7500+ powerband, the Cobra Jet has no competition.

 

[jmeiers]

All the required stuff for the Cobra Jet is in no way worth it to me, but I have to agree with you. Cobra Jet is king daddy if set up correctly, and all the fastest NA cars are using the Cobra Jet. Overall, I think a ported 18 takes the W just due to simplicity for a street car like OP mentioned, but for the strip and a car setup for a 7500+ powerband, the Cobra Jet has no competition.

Thank you. And I agree it is not for everyone as the cost is high and there is some things that need to be done but it is in no way hard to do even for a shade tree mechanic like myself. I can put my stock 19 manifold right back on in an hour. An A10 in drag mode is going to take full advantage of the ported Cobra Jet as I will prove as soon as a track opens back up. On the stock 19 manifold, I was already shifting at 7800 rpms so another 2-300 rpms is nothing.

I just checked my datalog from my 11.06 pass and the lowest my car dropped to after the shift change was 6200 rpms, which is right where the CJ leaves the 18mani on that graph.

 

[Idaho2018GTPremium]

Once my tune is finished and the tracks open up, I am willing to line my ported CJ/FBO combo up against anyone with same mods but ported 18 and see who is faster. IMO, dyno don't mean shit but that graph shows more power coming in sooner on the CJ and holding it for way longer.

Again, the fastest N/A cars have a CJ on top, regardless of how anyone wants to skew a dyno graph.

I didn't say a ported '18 manifold was faster than a Cobra jet. I said the gains from a Cobra jet are minimal compared to a ported '18 manifold, and therefore, probably not worth the additional cost and headaches to most people. A Cobra jet is $1000. Plus the engine mounts to make it fit under the '18+ GT hood, plus bending the fuel rails. A port job on an '18 is much, much less $ and doesn't come with the other install headaches. For someone that is serious about the drag strip, sure, why not, it may be worth the cost to you and others looking for the last tenth of a second. Or a car with fairly aggressive aftermarket cams and ported heads that can really make use of that high rpm breathability. Definitely something to consider. For a FBO street car? Not so much IMO. For the same reasoning I wrote in my original post in this thread. Plus, I don't want to run my engine to 8000 rpm.

By the way, 11.06 @ 125.4 mph with such few mods is impressive. Nice job. Must have lightened the car and had a great DA (I think I see skinnies in your signature pic). I'll be real curious what your trap speed is with the LTs and Cobra Jet mani.

Anyway, back to the topic of the OP: once I start modding my car, I'll do large ticket items or several things at once to make a noticeable improvement. For example, I would go FBO + lighter wheels all at once. Saves ~25 lbs of sprung weight (aftermarket exhaust systems generally lighter than factory), and 30-40 lbs rotating mass, which equates to ~90-120 lbs of sprung weight removed when discussing how rotating mass reduction helps improve acceleration. Combined, the extra hp plus weight loss and reduction in rotating mass will make a very noticeable difference. Then the next level would be to add ported heads/aftermarket cams. That would be another good jump in power.

 

[jmeiers]

I didn't say a ported '18 manifold was faster than a Cobra jet. I said the gains from a Cobra jet are minimal compared to a ported '18 manifold, and therefore, probably not worth the additional cost and headaches to most people. A Cobra jet is $1000. Plus the engine mounts to make it fit under the '18+ GT hood, plus bending the fuel rails. A port job on an '18 is much, much less $ and doesn't come with the other install headaches. For someone that is serious about the drag strip, sure, why not, it may be worth the cost to you and others looking for the last tenth of a second. Or a car with fairly aggressive aftermarket cams and ported heads that can really make use of that high rpm breathability. Definitely something to consider. For a FBO street car? Not so much IMO. For the same reasoning I wrote in my original post in this thread. Plus, I don't want to run my engine to 8000 rpm.

By the way, 11.06 @ 125.4 mph with such few mods is impressive. Nice job. Must have lightened the car and had a great DA (I think I see skinnies in your signature pic). I'll be real curious what your trap speed is with the LTs and Cobra Jet mani.

Anyway, back to the topic of the OP: once I start modding my car, I'll do large ticket items or several things at once to make a noticeable improvement. For example, I would go FBO + lighter wheels all at once. Saves ~25 lbs of sprung weight (aftermarket exhaust systems generally lighter than factory), and 30-40 lbs rotating mass, which equates to ~90-120 lbs of sprung weight removed when discussing how rotating mass reduction helps improve acceleration. Combined, the extra hp plus weight loss and reduction in rotating mass will make a very noticeable difference. Then the next level would be to add ported heads/aftermarket cams. That would be another good jump in power.

No hard feelings, just friendly disagreements. It's all good!

The OP should do E85 as that was the best bang for the buck on my car and it won't cost him much either because he already has PBD tuning. If you have aspirations of ever going centrifugal or turbo, then the 18-up mani is the way to go as that will allow easier install compatibility. If you are planning to stay N/A, then you got to hoard every HP available because there is no boost to turn up or pulley down for more power.

As for my car, it is now truly FBO. It literally has every FBO part from motor, driveline, suspension, and drag pack. The only other thing I want now is a higher-stall converter but I can get by with the transbrake on the stock converter. I need to maximize what I got now before going any further with ported heads/cams. I enjoy having a reliable N/A car and not worrying about blowing the shit up. (My last Mustang was 700 and a constant worry)

 

[Nate_V8]

Over on the 2018 intake thread a guy posted up that switching to the GT350 over his ported '18 netted positive results and he had data to back it up (not dyno, real world testing), even though all the dyno comparisons point to the ported '18 being just as good or better than the gt350. That being said, a ported GT350 or a CJ may be exactly what you are looking for. Dyno numbers aren't everything

 

[TEXAS HEAT]

Over on the 2018 intake thread a guy posted up that switching to the GT350 over his ported '18 netted positive results and he had data to back it up (not dyno, real world testing), even though all the dyno comparisons point to the ported '18 being just as good or better than the gt350. That being said, a ported GT350 or a CJ may be exactly what you are looking for. Dyno numbers aren't everything

Link to thread?

 

[Nate_V8]

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/18-intake-manifold-on-15-17.95295/page-151#post-2864548

Starts with post #2235

 

[KellTrac]

I drive a 2019 A10 GT with all of the bells and whistles. CJ, Comp Cams, Big TB, LTs - everything. Fast car. Has been 135mph in the 1/4mile.

That said, I love my 2016. It has a GT350 Intake Manifold, 95mm TB, JLT and 2" LTH Longtubes. Super simple combo and much more fun to drive with the 6R80 and 4000rpm converter. Its much much much less of a car and less modded than the 2019 above I mentioned, yet only a few tenths "slower".

I also had great luck with a ported 2018 Manifold. That combo was a fun 10-second combo, but the GT350 IM just pulls much harder.

 

[KellTrac]

Simple, fun and fast.

 

[Troy Carter]

Anyone trying to make an n/a car faster can't ignore small or marginal gains if they actually want to see improvements at the track. Sure, this mod is only worth 5hp, that one, maybe 7hp, and that other just a few more. That stuff adds up fast and shouldn't be ignored. You ever wonder why some guys with "the same mods" as some other guys seem to go faster? Attention to detail and focusing on all the little gains, that's how.

Opinions will vary on this for sure and I can understand how some mods simply are not worth it to some people. That's fine, but as a collection they are not insignificant and will show at the track.

 

[Troy Carter]

I drive a 2019 A10 GT with all of the bells and whistles. CJ, Comp Cams, Big TB, LTs - everything. Fast car. Has been 135mph in the 1/4mile.

That said, I love my 2016. It has a GT350 Intake Manifold, 95mm TB, JLT and 2" LTH Longtubes. Super simple combo and much more fun to drive with the 6R80 and 4000rpm converter. Its much much much less of a car and less modded than the 2019 above I mentioned, yet only a few tenths "slower".

I also had great luck with a ported 2018 Manifold. That combo was a fun 10-second combo, but the GT350 IM just pulls much harder.

I love the GT350 intake for typical street cars. I've never used one but it looks very promising!

 

[Troy Carter]

I just checked my datalog from my 11.06 pass and the lowest my car dropped to after the shift change was 6200 rpms, which is right where the CJ leaves the 18mani on that graph.

This is with a stock converter. With a loose converter, depending on where and when it locks, it could be much higher than that. My logs with a Circle D A10 don't drop below 6800.

 

[Idaho2018GTPremium]

I drive a 2019 A10 GT with all of the bells and whistles. CJ, Comp Cams, Big TB, LTs - everything. Fast car. Has been 135mph in the 1/4mile.

That said, I love my 2016. It has a GT350 Intake Manifold, 95mm TB, JLT and 2" LTH Longtubes. Super simple combo and much more fun to drive with the 6R80 and 4000rpm converter. Its much much much less of a car and less modded than the 2019 above I mentioned, yet only a few tenths "slower".

I also had great luck with a ported 2018 Manifold. That combo was a fun 10-second combo, but the GT350 IM just pulls much harder.

What comp cams did you go with for the '19? Also - are the heads ported and polished? 135 mph is mighty fast for an NA car.

 

[Nate_V8]

People mod the motors so fast, I guess there is no worry about warranty? lol

135mph n/a is smokin. What da?

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