Reason For XS Oil Usage?

olaosunt

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I am at the limit of my fuel system too at that RPM and its a stock motor, 8k is about as high as I want to go.

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is this a coyote or voodoo ?
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Postal Bob

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i did. not know the change oil light monitors the “oil life “
I thought it came on based on the interval you set
It's easy if you have the FordPass app, then you can easily check it even when not driving the car. Otherwise you have to go into the car's menu settings, to the "reset oil life". It will first show you remaining oil life, then give you the option to reset it.
 

Garfy

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If Ford knows, they ain't saying. It's not jailhouse lawyering to assume they don't want to expose themselves to class action suit or recall.

It's either valve seals or blow by. Blow by could be caused by a few things, but I can tell you this.

High performance cars generally need to be driven spiritedly.

They also can't be driven like a typical daily driver mini-van, meaning it's not just a car you jump in and go when the motor is cold.

I'm pretty OCD about letting the car warm to at least 120F coolant temp (that's when the idle drops) and then not flogging it until it reaches full operating temps.

Then, on the flip side, you have to give the car the business every so often (I mean, the FULL business, as in redline rips from 1-4 or 1-5) to keep rings properly mated and cylinder walls free and clear.

There's no doubt in my mind that the car experiences blowby when the pistons are cold and slapping around at off angle, so I try to keep that at a minimum and only either idle or creep it until they've fully expanded.

It's a bit obscure, but when I rebuilt my motor and had the heads done, I had purchased a set of new valve seals from MMR (which I'm fairly certain are just rebranded FRPP seals) and for whatever reason, MPR (who did my heads) wanted to use a different set/spec. So that could be just their preference or it could be there's problem with the FRPP valve seals. I dunno.
Like you I'm always letting the engine warm up before driving it. My Honda only has an idiot temp light and the cold light goes off at 140F; I thought it was interesting that my Mustang's digital temp gauge starts at 140F on the low end. So, I don't put the car in gear until I'm at least 135F, then drive conservatively until the coolant temp is in the normal range. My first year of ownership I only had 2300 miles on it (oil life was already at 18% remaining) yet the dipstick still showed that it was close to full. Of course I don't take it up to red line every day, but I do it a few times a week. I suspect the higher oil consumption may have to do with sustained higher speeds and loads perhaps.
 

Garfy

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i did. not know the change oil light monitors the “oil life “
I thought it came on based on the interval you set
Not on the Mustang, you can't set it in a menu like some other cars (some Mazdas & Nissans I saw has a menu where you set when the oil and filter change indicator comes on; they also had one setting for tire rotation). The Mustang, like many Hondas from mid 2000's has an oil life monitor that the computer determines from rpms, distance driven, etc.
 

Keeffa

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Not bitchin'. Some cars use oil and some don't, mine being in the former group. Haven't seen anything yet on exactly what the most common reason is and I suspect there probably is just one for 90% of cases. Lots of speculation but has anyone addressed this on their car and fixed it? Wondering if worth trying to resolve or just resign myself to carrying four quarts of oil in the trunk on any extended 6-7000 mile road trip I take until I die (which is probably the least expensive answer).
I've got a 2018 GT and it used about 1.5 litres between servicing 10,000 Klm. I dont know what oil the dealer used and couldn't get them to tell me, so when somewhere else i now use Penrite 5w40 oil and it doesn't use oil anymore. I'm in Australia so a bit warmer climate maybe 5w30 is still ok but a better quality oil works wonders. The oil is getting past the rings on these engines.
 
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