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Rear suspension questions

blankman

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So once the weather breaks I plan on finishing up my suspension install of the rear toe links and knuckle spherical bearings. I was viewing the instructions per Ford and was curious about the camwheel/bolt. Per their instructions I am to mark both the wheel and the bolt for reinstall to achieve close to the current toe / camber? As far as marking them, am I correct in thinking that I can mark the cam wheel right on the chassis, probably do a mark in the hole and elsewhere I would think? As far as the bolt, am I just marking that position to the cam wheel? For reinstall , I feel like the cam wheel is oblong to rotate the toe link in and out, so that needs to be as close to the markings as possible, along with the bolt?

I've never had to screw with these before so I'm not sure exactly how the cam wheel and that bolt sit in there. Suggestions and tips are always greatly appreciated. I've read those knuckle bearings can be a big pain in the ass to remove, which brings me to another question. Is there a specific reason Ford calls for red loctite on the bearing mating surface on the knuckle spherical bearing install? I find it odd they call for that, and then loctite on the bolt as well for the knuckle.
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petronix

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If you aren't replacing the toe links, you shouldn't need to remove them from the car, only from the knuckle. I would recommend replacing the toe links with adjustable ones though and eliminate the the adjuster cams. The adjuster cams are pretty terrible and are known not to hold alignment, once messed with. Additionally, if you replace the toe links, you can press the bearings out of the originals and install them in the knuckles. They are the same as the bearings Ford sells separately.

Don't see a need for loctite on the knuckle bearing, its pressed in there tight.
 

GTP

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... Additionally, if you replace the toe links, you can press the bearings out of the originals and install them in the knuckles. They are the same as the bearings Ford sells separately.
...
This is not precisely true. The bearings from the toe links are the same OD/ID but they are about 0.2" wider than the Ford Performance ones. It is a hassle to spread the forks to accommodate but it can be done.
 

Keeffa

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If you're doing all that I recommend changing the toe link I have Steeda one's.
 
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blankman

blankman

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If you're doing all that I recommend changing the toe link I have Steeda one's.
Im actually replacing the toe links with the ones with that came with my FRTP kit. I had to button up my install ASAP last year before I got a chance to replace them, along with replacing the knuckle bearings with the sphericals.
 

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blankman

blankman

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Just making sure blankman is aware so he doesn't buy the wrong tool(s) when he does the bushings himself!
Yeah I think in the instructions it calls for a ball joint press using a 1 1/4" socket. I was just planning on using that on the knuckle bearings. My plan was to grab a loaner tool from autozonenor advanced as I don't think I'd ever need it again.
 

axtran

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Yeah I think in the instructions it calls for a ball joint press using a 1 1/4" socket. I was just planning on using that on the knuckle bearings. My plan was to grab a loaner tool from autozonenor advanced as I don't think I'd ever need it again.
I bought the exact thing from Harbor Freight, as well as the socket. Trust me, it sucks. lol

I ended up buying the second kit that I linked above after that whole fiasco and headache, and it was beyond easy to remove the opposite side and install the new.
 

Keeffa

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Yeah I think in the instructions it calls for a ball joint press using a 1 1/4" socket. I was just planning on using that on the knuckle bearings. My plan was to grab a loaner tool from autozonenor advanced as I don't think I'd ever need it again.
I bought the kit because I did the lower control arms bush and front control arm bush as well.
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