Rear End Sway- Problem?

[TRCKWMD]

You definitely don’t need that much negative camber with the carbon wheels. Did the prior owner use a set of aluminum wheels on track?

Unsure on that. I’m dialing back a bit after this event.

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[Jstang23]

Lotta folks never heard about the factory studs failing apparently. Or that Ford released longer and stronger studs to fix the failing factory studs.

Come on man, I'm genuinely interested in your reason for not torquing to 150 ft/lbs. We've all heard about the two piece lugs failing, but that's not because we torque them to 150, its because the aluminum top part bends inside the socket. Look if you want to go about not torquing to 150 that's your prerogative, but please don't come here and convince others that 150 is too much.

 

[TRCKWMD]

OP glad you found it!

The front camber will probably be a little darty on the street, but if you autocross or track much its the way to go. If it were my car I would only dial the rear back a tiny bit to 2.0.

You can dial just a slight amount of front toe in (like 0.05) to help calm it down slightly.

Tires with big flat tread blocks can make the tramlining worse, so if you’re running cup 2s then ya probably annoying, but with street tires like MP4S it should be ok.

Im on PS4’s. Everything is per the owners supplement recommendations sans camber. On a nice road it’s fine, but that’s hard to come by in CO. Lots of grooved pavement out here and crowning on the roads.

 

[WItoTX]

I’ve got Camber Plates.

LOL, yes, it's an R, they are factory. I've never heard of factory plates going to -3.6, and certainly not that far without cutting the strut towers.

 

[TRCKWMD]

LOL, yes, it's an R, they are factory. I've never heard of factory plates going to -3.6, and certainly not that far without cutting the strut towers.

*aftermarket plates. Ground control is the mfg.

 

[WItoTX]

Come on man, I'm genuinely interested in your reason for not torquing to 150 ft/lbs.

Numerous people having stud failures. Some, due to their incompetency, others due to what sure appears to be a weakness in the stud itself. This is echoed on OP's site, and state the studs are prone to failure. From the OP website.

The studs are a weak point prone to failure. A lug tightened north of 100 will keep the wheel on just fine. As I said, I go to 120. 127 is +/- 15%, so 120 isn't far from that window. Tighten nuts, if necessary, once the car has cooled, and it will be fine.

 

[Jstang23]

Numerous people having stud failures. Some, due to their incompetency, others due to what sure appears to be a weakness in the stud itself. This is echoed on OP's site, and state the studs are prone to failure. From the OP website.

The studs are a weak point prone to failure. A lug tightened north of 100 will keep the wheel on just fine. As I said, I go to 120. 127 is +/- 15%, so 120 isn't far from that window. Tighten nuts, if necessary, once the car has cooled, and it will be fine.

Ok man, whatever floats your boat

 

[sukhoi_584th]

Numerous people having stud failures. Some, due to their incompetency, others due to what sure appears to be a weakness in the stud itself. This is echoed on OP's site, and state the studs are prone to failure. From the OP website.

The studs are a weak point prone to failure. A lug tightened north of 100 will keep the wheel on just fine. As I said, I go to 120. 127 is +/- 15%, so 120 isn't far from that window. Tighten nuts, if necessary, once the car has cooled, and it will be fine.

There is no way there are studs regularly failing with regular use and the NHTSA hasn't forced Ford to issue a safety recall. Now sure if you're taking your wheels off every week then maybe you need higher quality studs but that doesn't mean the math to calculate the torque necessarily changes.

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