I wasn't doing diff but was getting control arm and knuckles off recently.
- I did not order new axle nuts, but you should. They are one-time use.My buddy and I debated about this, and did quite a bit of reading. Turns out that for track-bros, CV and wheel bearing failures are a fairly common issue. Many suspect the axle nut backing off is accelerating these failures, such that some choose to keep a spare CV axle, wheel bearing, and axle nut at events.
- I re-installed mine, but only because the car will see maybe 100 easy street miles
- I didn't have new on hand, so I did re-use mine by following the correct steps (98ft-lb, 45* turn beyond that) with new loctite.
- I immediately ordered new ones to be installed before next track event. CCPZ-3B477-G is the current part number, replaces CCPZ-3B477-F, which replaced CCPZ-3B477-A as of this writing.
Thanks for the detailed install write-up and the positive feedback . I am very glad you are satisfied with the quality of the product.Got mine installed last weekend.
...
Now some random other thoughts post-install:
I can't work this thing hard enough on the street (and don't want to) to know enough about what kind of improvement I'm seeing. I'm really hoping this is enough to get me out of the warning and cooking fluid each event. That said, the fluid that was "cooked" (by getting the warning) looked pretty good, so.... who knows.
- Fluix was a great seller. Clearly done the research to design and build something we all needed. Quick responses, helpful, and proactive. A+
- The product is of high quality. Zero concerns with fitment, etc. All points where it connects, mounts, or otherwise interfaces with factory stuff is perfect.
- It does hang lower than the stock cover, obviously. It is not lower than the exhaust that I can tell.
- As I said in another thread, this could theoretically contact something in the right (wrong?) circumstance.
- I'm going to happily run it and I don't see this being an issue but wanted to mention it.
This has probably been answered elsewhere, from what I recall at last session at the track in February, Willow Springs Raceway, the Red Zone is 300 F, the ECU moves you to Limp Mode at 320 F...I could be wrong. The big point for me, "to keep someone on track for their full session then I think these things will sell like hot cakes." I had the dash warning come on in January on a cooler day..Limp Mode, damn!, off the track for me...drove around to cool things off. Before my next event in February, I had the exhaust pipes forward and aft of the diff, wrapped in tape used to insulate headers (From Summit). The tape seemed to provide some relief...never crept past 300 on a cool day, 70 degrees, 20 minute sessions. So if this finned diff cover fits a 2020 Mustang PP1, and can give me 30 degrees of protection, awesome. I'll have to have one.Nice
Do you know what temp the ECU puts you in limp mode i.e. is the difference enough to keep it running normally ?
If the difference is enough to keep someone on track for their full session then I think these things will sell like hot cakes ...
WD
Limp mode should come on at 293 Fahrenheit. 30 degrees F may be a stretch, since that mostly depends on the ambient temperature and the load, but 20 degrees you should definitely see if you’re already closing in on the 293 sometimes.This has probably been answered elsewhere, from what I recall at last session at the track in February, Willow Springs Raceway, the Red Zone is 300 F, the ECU moves you to Limp Mode at 320 F...I could be wrong.
...
So if this finned diff cover fits a 2020 Mustang PP1, and can give me 30 degrees of protection, awesome. I'll have to have one.
This is some incredible information. Thanks you so very much. If I decide to keep the 2020 Mustang, so disappointed with this flaw, I will give your product a try. ....I have been a long time Porsche owner and never had overheating of the engine/Tranny as a problem. I am also looking at an "active" tranny cooler as a solution, BUT, it's $1,100 + labor. Ford should be ashamed of themselves for creating this problem.Limp mode should come on at 293 Fahrenheit. 30 degrees F may be a stretch, since that mostly depends on the ambient temperature and the load, but 20 degrees you should definitely see if you’re already closing in on the 293 sometimes.
Also to keep in mind is that if you come close to 293 with the cover, then without you could be over the limit by even more than 30 degrees, as the cover becomes more effective the higher the temperature difference to ambient gets. That’s a difficult test however, since the stock cars won’t let you go over the 293...
So far I have not received a feedback that someone went into limp mode with the cover
Thanks for the great information.Got mine installed last weekend.
Prior to that, a friend and I just completed a subframe-out project for him, so I was relatively comfortable with all the steps required. I used the following thread and video and found them both to be pretty spot on:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/r-r-diff.96474/post-2116792
Since those two links above are essentially all you'll need, I'll just share some random install thoughts:
...
Got the PM....I did a data dump on you...IMHO, my former 2020 Mustang GT Deluxe PP1, was a fantastic car. The handling on the track was super. My only bitch is the cooling of the diff, and possibly the engine and the tranny. Didn't have problems with the last two, but the overheating diff was a problem. It can be cured. but I was not willing to put our the $$$ and effort to do this with an active radiator from fulltiltboogie.com . In my opinion, Ford was remiss in hinting in their promotion of the car, that is is 100% track ready as delivered. With the diff flaw, that's just not true. They provide a "Trail" mode, but be careful using it. I won't forgive them for that..it cost me some $$$$Great write up. PM sent.
FWIW: Re. the finned diff cover, when you look at where the fins are located, on the leeward side of the diff out of the airstream, and the fact that installation is far from simple, were it me noting I sold my 550, i'd for sure do the Kenny Brown radiator and add the www.fulltiltboogie.com active radiator for the diff. It's about $1,200 and looks to be about 5 hours of labor to install. The S-550 has "good bones:", it simply needs its fluids cooled for track use. Stay cool!Excellent well thought out posts and data from guys that also Track their cars is invaluable! I'm only in my 2nd season with my '18 PP1 car and agree that the rear diff is the achilles heel of the S550 platform on track. Having said that, as you mentioned the platform has many overall strengths. I'll be ordering the finned rear diff cover from Ish and upgrading my radiator to a triple pass unit from Kenny Brown before heading back out on track (Putnam Park and NCM). I'm going to invest in the platform and stick with it, in hopes of solving these issues and passing a lot of Vettes and Porsches out there.