rattle after spring install?

[geezer stang]

Quick check would be the nut on the top hats.

checked all under hood nuts with correct socket (21mm) and torque wrench.thanks for your input...do you work offshore?

Sponsored

 

[geezer stang]

I checked the torque on the nuts that hold the strut assembly to the strut towers,it was correct,also checked the "strut nut" with the correct socket(21mm) while holding the strut shaft with a 10mm open end wrench..it was correct,where the
main problem is in the rear,with a resonate rattle in the springs at low speed over rough surfaces,it feels as though the shock may be too strong and is actually holding up the body of the car and allowing the spring to "float" in the spring seat between the upper and lower isolators,some posters have said "that shock(m-18000-f)" does not have that level of "compression/rebound" to even do that,even thou the springs were installed with the "label up",STEEDA'S website says that's not always an indicator of top/bottom orientation,as a spring could be installed "label upside down" and still be correct?their instructions do state (for that particular spring) that the orientation for the fronts...."larger diameter coil is top,and tighter wound coil is top for rear springs"...kinda hard to tell with the springs installed,I'm not a mechanic,just a dude trying to extract a little better handling out of his street car.i'd like to thank all members who have reached out with helpful comments and possible solutions,you guys are the best!...still open to suggestions,thanks!

 

[geezer stang]

I requested the initial installer to re-check the torque on the rear end links,weather they did it or not,I can't say,but I checked them with an 18mm and 6 mm allen head and they are not loose,but not sure if they're over or under torqued.the initial installer seemed insulted that I would question his work,so I knew it could only go down hill from there,my next move may be to re-install the factory shocks in the rear and see if it stops the rattle,I'll also do a cursory check of the "FORD PERFORMANCE" rear shock..thanks for your input!

 

[S550HPP]

ebrake cable!

Tap the shocks with rubber mallet see if there is an internal rattle.

One of my 18 mth old B6 struts has one while other is solid....

Gotta love mass market mechanic experts who get insulted when a defect with the work outcome exists.... and they are asked to remedy.

 

[geezer stang]

ebrake cable!

Tap the shocks with rubber mallet see if there is an internal rattle.

One of my 18 mth old B6 struts has one while other is solid....

Gotta love mass market mechanic experts who get insulted when a defect with the work outcome exists.... and they are asked to remedy.

thanks..excellent idea!

 

[S550HPP]

Hit end links and everything else there won't do any damage with reasonable force.

 

[SBPGT]

I just did my rear springs today.

Have you checked all the other bolts that may have been involved with the install? IRS subframe bolts, shock bolts, exhaust hanger bolts, brake line bolts, sway bar bushing bracket bolts, or anything else they may have loosed up.

I don't remember If anyone asked if the springs were installed upside down?

 

[geezer stang]

I just did my rear springs today.

Have you checked all the other bolts that may have been involved with the install? IRS subframe bolts, shock bolts, exhaust hanger bolts, brake line bolts, sway bar bushing bracket bolts, or anything else they may have loosed up.

I don't remember If anyone asked if the springs were installed upside down?
[/QUOTthanks for your help...hopefully I can get after some of those things in the next couple of days...great input!

 

[geezer stang]

I just did my rear springs today.

Have you checked all the other bolts that may have been involved with the install? IRS subframe bolts, shock bolts, exhaust hanger bolts, brake line bolts, sway bar bushing bracket bolts, or anything else they may have loosed up.

I don't remember If anyone asked if the springs were installed upside down?

on Monday,I removed the "ford performance" rear shocks and re-installed the factory parts with correct jounce bumpers(as per steeda's instruction sheet)I checked end links,exhaust parts,etc...there was nothing obvious...the rattle was reduced a little,but it's still there,it was my first time doing a shock change and I caught hell trying to compress the shocks enough to re-install...a couple of 24" heavy duty zip ties allowed me the room necessary to re-install the shocks with out having to drop the sub frame.

 

[geezer stang]

Did you replace your spring isolators with the new springs? I just installed new rear springs on my 2019 Bullitt with 8K miles on the odometer and the isolators (uppers and lowers were torn). When they tear, the end or pigtail on the springs can make contact with the spring seats or perches and cause noise. See link for more info.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...rn-2019-bullitt-with-very-low-mileage.200243/

did not replace the isolators.

 

[NGOT8R]

did not replace the isolators.

Were you able to at least get a good look at them to see if they were torn or damaged? I would imagine that they would be, given that mine were with only 8K miles on them.

 

[geezer stang]

Were you able to at least get a good look at them to see if they were torn or damaged? I would imagine that they would be, given that mine were with only 8K miles on them.

I wasn't able to see any obvious damage,but my car has 22,000 so that may be the case,I spoke with "RAY" at steeda,he suggested checking the four "sub-frame bolts"(the blue ones) they were 129ft/lbs...so,changing back to factory shocks netted zero improvement...that leaves "camber arm,rear lower control arm "bind" or incorrectly torqued sway bar end links...thanks for your suggestions!

 

[geezer stang]

I wasn't able to see any obvious damage,but my car has 22,000 so that may be the case,I spoke with "RAY" at steeda,he suggested checking the four "sub-frame bolts"(the blue ones) they were 129ft/lbs...so,changing back to factory shocks netted zero improvement...that leaves "camber arm,rear lower control arm "bind" or incorrectly torqued sway bar end links...thanks for your suggestions!

as an update to anyone concerned,I took the car to steeda in Georgia,the problem seemed to be "coil contact" front and rear,JAMIE installed the correct "covers' and 99.9% of the rattle from the rear is gone,98.9% of the clunk is gone from the struts,it was a very nice drive(except for Atlanta traffic) and the guys at "STEEDA" were excellent and it's fun to drive the car again without the noise!

Sponsored