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Quick Xineering downshift blip module install review

Biggsy

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So the “+1” pin goes to the orange wire which as you know it connected to the module already

“+2” pin is connected to the power source. You can choose where you want to grab it from. You mentioned the temp sensor before. I routed mine back to the BCM which is the harness in the instructions. Also as some mentioned in this thread that they did a fuse tap to that fuse box at the presenter footwell. You can choose where you feel best.

The third pin “-“ is the ground which again you can choose where you want to wire it to. I again went back to the fuse panel and found a bolt. I ran the wire with a ring terminal to the bolt there. You may be able to pick up the ground from the temp sensor.

I really hope that helps. Just want to move the current from the car power source to the module.

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Lorne34

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So the “+1” pin goes to the orange wire which as you know it connected to the module already

“+2” pin is connected to the power source. You can choose where you want to grab it from. You mentioned the temp sensor before. I routed mine back to the BCM which is the harness in the instructions. Also as some mentioned in this thread that they did a fuse tap to that fuse box at the presenter footwell. You can choose where you feel best.

The third pin “-“ is the ground which again you can choose where you want to wire it to. I again went back to the fuse panel and found a bolt. I ran the wire with a ring terminal to the bolt there. You may be able to pick up the ground from the temp sensor.

I really hope that helps. Just want to move the current from the car power source to the module.

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Thank you that makes total sense now... I will need a length of wire to run all the way back to the BCM if I want to draw power from there.. otherwise I might just tap the Temp Sensor wire and see if that is sufficient.. it's right there behind the panel, so I think I would rather just get that connected without having to remove kick panels and access the BCM.
 

Biggsy

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Thank you that makes total sense now... I will need a length of wire to run all the way back to the BCM if I want to draw power from there.. otherwise I might just tap the Temp Sensor wire and see if that is sufficient.. it's right there behind the panel, so I think I would rather just get that connected without having to remove kick panels and access the BCM.
Exactly. You got it.
 

Lorne34

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I finally completed the installation of an in dash switch for my Xeneering Auto Blip module for the Shelby. I wish they would have included an out of the box switch to turn the unit on/off, but after many conversations and a lot of help from guys on this forum I was able to get the switch installed. I previously had a cigarette lighter toggle switch plugged into the port in the center console. This was klunky as I didn't remove the center console to thread the wiring, but just had it running along side of the seat. Really love the clean (oemish) look of the toggle switch on the air temp sensor panel.
Tapped into the air sensor wire for 12v power for the switch. (thanks Biggsy and ChipG)
ignore the hint of orange wire peeking out to the left of the switch... that's been cleaned up :cool:
Also cleaned up and secured the master module in the glove box, so I had room for actual glove box things.
For me the decision to go with this unit vs trying to master heel/toe was based upon limited opportunities to practice on track at this point in my life. I plan on eventually getting it down, but for now it eliminates this step from my brain as I'm trying to figure out the 14 brake, turn in, apex, and track out phases at Road America.
The module is only practical for track use....
I am planning on installed an extended gas pedal from SRP racing which should help with heel/toe and practicing during spirited driving.
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Biggsy

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@Lorne34 great job. Happy you got it together. Now for the fun part…getting the settings right
 

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72&18

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Very nice. Enjoy the unit and focus on those apex’s.
 

Lorne34

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@Lorne34 great job. Happy you got it together. Now for the fun part…getting the settings right
Thanks! yeah, I haven't really played around with the settings at all. Just left them at default which is way to aggressive for anything but on track at Road America where everything is high speed. I am going to a smaller track in june (Black Hawk Farms, IL) which is shorter with more turns, so may have to tune it down there.
On the street and during my mountain run events I can practice heel/toe with it off now that i've got the SRP racing pedals almost finished...
 

COBRAFREAK1996

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Just an fyi for anyone looking at this module. It now comes with an on/off switch and with the plug and play harness, no splicing. Just installed over the weekend. Think it took like 30 minutes to get it all in.
 

WItoTX

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I've had it in mine for about 8 months now. Love it. Took all of 20 minutes to get it tuned (My advice, make it aggressive driving down the road, it will fit well at most tracks), and the worst part was the install. The clutch part sucked, I actually just removed my seat so I could lay on the floorboard to look up into the clutch area. And I pretty much took apart the whole dash so I could see what I was doing from above as well.

All said and done, maybe 1.5 hours to install and mount where I wanted it.

Just an fyi for anyone looking at this module. It now comes with an on/off switch and with the plug and play harness, no splicing. Just installed over the weekend. Think it took like 30 minutes to get it all in.
Where did you mount the module?
 

COBRAFREAK1996

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I've had it in mine for about 8 months now. Love it. Took all of 20 minutes to get it tuned (My advice, make it aggressive driving down the road, it will fit well at most tracks), and the worst part was the install. The clutch part sucked, I actually just removed my seat so I could lay on the floorboard to look up into the clutch area. And I pretty much took apart the whole dash so I could see what I was doing from above as well.

All said and done, maybe 1.5 hours to install and mount where I wanted it.



Where did you mount the module?
It's in the glove box. I mounted the on/off switch near the OBD2 connector so it was out of the way. Didn't feel like drilling a hole lol. The clutch connector can be a bear. I'm kinda lucky in that I can visualize stuff in my head so I looked at the connector on the plug and play harness, felt around for the plug on the clutch switch and figured out how it was positioned. Off and on in a minute or so. If I couldn't do that I'd say taking the dash apart to see is absolutely what I'd have done. I have plenty of cuts/scrapes on my hands from jamming them into every sharp edge under there lol.

My wife messes with me about the visualization thing all the time. I'll be in a blank stare at dinner or something and she'll go "you're taking something apart or putting it back together on the car aren't you?" 🤣

How do you have your's set btw?
 

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72&18

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It's in the glove box. I mounted the on/off switch near the OBD2 connector so it was out of the way. Didn't feel like drilling a hole lol. The clutch connector can be a bear. I'm kinda lucky in that I can visualize stuff in my head so I looked at the connector on the plug and play harness, felt around for the plug on the clutch switch and figured out how it was positioned. Off and on in a minute or so. If I couldn't do that I'd say taking the dash apart to see is absolutely what I'd have done. I have plenty of cuts/scrapes on my hands from jamming them into every sharp edge under there lol.

My wife messes with me about the visualization thing all the time. I'll be in a blank stare at dinner or something and she'll go "you're taking something apart or putting it back together on the car aren't you?" 🤣

How do you have your's set btw?
Me too. I was able to watch the video of this install and note the orientation of the switch and it was done very quickly. I also have large hands, so many cuts getting my hand/arm up there.
 

WItoTX

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It's in the glove box. I mounted the on/off switch near the OBD2 connector so it was out of the way. Didn't feel like drilling a hole lol. The clutch connector can be a bear. I'm kinda lucky in that I can visualize stuff in my head so I looked at the connector on the plug and play harness, felt around for the plug on the clutch switch and figured out how it was positioned. Off and on in a minute or so. If I couldn't do that I'd say taking the dash apart to see is absolutely what I'd have done. I have plenty of cuts/scrapes on my hands from jamming them into every sharp edge under there lol.

My wife messes with me about the visualization thing all the time. I'll be in a blank stare at dinner or something and she'll go "you're taking something apart or putting it back together on the car aren't you?" 🤣

How do you have your's set btw?
I hear you, generally I take the same approach visualizing. My problem was getting my head up in there for the clutch sensor, so I could really understand how it sat up in there. Add to that, with all the plastic parts, I was concerned if I broke the sensor, how much of a pain it would be to put a new one in. So. It was much easier just to remove the seat.

I'd be lying if I said I remembered my settings. I got it set, made one or two tweaks at an event, and it was gold after that. On road, it's aggressive, and if you aren't expecting it, will catch you off guard on cool down laps and pulling into the pit when you haven't full engaged the clutch quickly enough.

I am going through the car this weekend, will take a look and get back to you.
 

Lorne34

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You guys are giving me PTSD with all the talk about the clutch module. That was the most difficult part and I ended up scraping my hand up pretty bad. I finally ended up getting my 30 year old daughter who is a whiz at the visualization thing and has small hands. She had it plugged in after about 5 minutes.
Sucks that they didn't provide the switch and brake harnesses when I purchased mine.
Had to buy and wire my own on/off switch and positap into the BCU unit.
BUt even with all of that it was that stupid clutch module that slowed me down.
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