Starting up issues after to install Auto-Blip

[yosv0610]

Hello guys! A friend of mine was installing the Auto-Blip from steeda. When he finished the car was starting up as always, but the auto-blip was not working (not rev matching) so he called to that company and they told him to check the accelerator connector voltage (it only works for 5V) and the voltmeter read 5V. So he plugged in all again, did the calibration process and when he tried to starting it up it didn’t… It sounded like a weak battery. This happened once at the dealer, without any reason and the technician connected a jumper and it started it up. Today we connected some cables from car to car and nothing. We checked the battery and it was at 12V. Anybody had this issue with autoBlip or doing something electric in the car? His car is a 2017 GT350R.
Thanks
PS: here is the video trying to starting up…

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[jmn444]

what makes you think it's the autoblip causing the dead battery? is it the original battery? that's 4 or 5 years old, it may just be time for a new one.

 

[yosv0610]

what makes you think it's the autoblip causing the dead battery? is it the original battery? that's 4 or 5 years old, it may just be time for a new one.

Yeah, it might not an auto-blip issue, maybe my title is wrong, but it is related. The current battery was replaced by original owner in a Ford dealer. It has a 2020 date on it, but it could be failing. I just asked to see if this could be some kind of computer lock or so, I have no idea.

 

[jmn444]

when you say it was not rev matching, what was it actually doing? like if you were sitting still, and you pushed the brake in 1st and then pushed in the clutch, did the rpm rise at all?

 

[jmn444]

maybe it seems related, but I have trouble thinking how... it should only draw enough power for the led lights, and only outputs the 5v signal to the throttle under the combination of brake first then clutch 2nd, so my understanding is it would take over a year for it to drain a battery on it's own. I actually talked to Andres about that concern back in 2019 when I first got mine.

I'm thinking alternator issue or battery issue or maybe the doors were open too long during the install or something else is staying/left on?

How long ago did this happen at the dealer where it needed a jump? was the autoblip installed at that time? batteries don't always recover that well from being completely dead and the oem battery is def on the small side as well....

good luck sorting it though!

 

[Rapid Red]

Rev match happens down shifting, has the OP driven the car ?

 

[jmn444]

I also really don't think you'll see the results you may expect by using this thing on the street, it really shines when braking from redline into a corner, but not so much in normal street driving coming to a stop sign at rpms below the power band.

 

[Rapid Red]

Power band starts before the red line. Intersects with the RPM, bypassing MAX HP up to red line.

 

[yosv0610]

maybe it seems related, but I have trouble thinking how... it should only draw enough power for the led lights, and only outputs the 5v signal to the throttle under the combination of brake first then clutch 2nd, so my understanding is it would take over a year for it to drain a battery on it's own. I actually talked to Andres about that concern back in 2019 when I first got mine.

I'm thinking alternator issue or battery issue or maybe the doors were open too long during the install or something else is staying/left on?

How long ago did this happen at the dealer where it needed a jump? was the autoblip installed at that time? batteries don't always recover that well from being completely dead and the oem battery is def on the small side as well....

good luck sorting it though!

Yeah, sorry if I couldn’t explain clearly what happened.
Ok, he bought the car to the second owner of the car who had changed the battery before (unknown reason). One day he brought the car for a total inspection before end the whole purchase process to be 100% the car was fine. The dealer replaced the clutch and new tires. When he went to pick it up, car was starting up normally. They brought the car and turn it off. When my friend sign off all paper work, he tried to start it up and battery seemed to be dead. So, the tech brought the jump-starter and they turn it on. That was like 4-5 months ago. Yesterday, he was installing the Auto-Blip. He told me that he did the calibration, but testing it “on the street” when he changed from 3rd to 2nd the auto-blip didn’t rev-match. I asked him if he applied the enough pressure in the brake to activate it, he told me he did it. I don’t know about auto-blips because I don’t have one in my car. So, he called to the auto-blip’s company to ask about this, and they told him to check what was the voltage in the accelerator connector (seems like some cars comes with 5V and other with 12V, and for 12V that model doesn’t work), so we checked with the voltmeter and it read 5V. He did the calibration again in the auto-blip. When he tried to turn it on, bum! the car didn’t started up. Maybe the door was opened for long time (1hr Max), the ignition accessories during the calibration part, the battery faulty, all this together drained the battery… Well, we will try today replacing the battery, hope this work. Thanks guys!

 

[pilotgore]

Yeah, sorry if I couldn’t explain clearly what happened.
Ok, he bought the car to the second owner of the car who had changed the battery before (unknown reason). One day he brought the car for a total inspection before end the whole purchase process to be 100% the car was fine. The dealer replaced the clutch and new tires. When he went to pick it up, car was starting up normally. They brought the car and turn it off. When my friend sign off all paper work, he tried to start it up and battery seemed to be dead. So, the tech brought the jump-starter and they turn it on. That was like 4-5 months ago. Yesterday, he was installing the Auto-Blip. He told me that he did the calibration, but testing it “on the street” when he changed from 3rd to 2nd the auto-blip didn’t rev-match. I asked him if he applied the enough pressure in the brake to activate it, he told me he did it. I don’t know about auto-blips because I don’t have one in my car. So, he called to the auto-blip’s company to ask about this, and they told him to check what was the voltage in the accelerator connector (seems like some cars comes with 5V and other with 12V, and for 12V that model doesn’t work), so we checked with the voltmeter and it read 5V. He did the calibration again in the auto-blip. When he tried to turn it on, bum! the car didn’t started up. Maybe the door was opened for long time (1hr Max), the ignition accessories during the calibration part, the battery faulty, all this together drained the battery… Well, we will try today replacing the battery, hope this work. Thanks guys!

A few thoughts;

You’ve got a bad battery.

Make sure the cars accessory power is on while calibrating, otherwise the unit won’t receive the necessary voltage. (I’ve made that mistake before.)

After calibration are you seeing the lights turn on as you push the pedals?

With the unit on, you can test the unit while stationary and the car running, you don’t need to be driving on the street. The unit has no sense of you being in gear.

The unit will only blip if you push the brake first, then clutch. If you clutch first then brake, you’ll get no blip

 

[yosv0610]

Okay guys, it’s working now the car… brand new battery and problem solved! Thanks all of you for help! Looking forward to have the auto-blip working

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