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Quick Jack owners in here!!

JetGray_Mach1

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"Feel safer"

Are you sure you had the right quick Jack? It is much safer than Jack stands and a jack
Yep it is extremely safe, I even throw some of my heavy duty jack stands for extra safety.
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kz

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For the low cars - QJ sells now extra low profile rubber blocks - https://www.quickjack.com/1-5-low-profile-blocks/ - so no drive on ramps are needed.

However - they are longer than trays in my QJ - their tech support called me back and said the design has changed and trays are now longer (my Quickjack is probably close to 8 years old now and it has been completely problem and maintenance free). I cut two of them down (length wise) using Milwaukee utility knife to make them fit but now Quickjack slides right under the car without an issue.

I also use ZL1 add ons lift pads that bolt on the pinch welds and stay there permanently - much less pain in the ass than trying to align lift pucks with the pinch welds.

https://zl1addons.com/collections/jackpads-magpads/products/mustang-bolt-on-lift-pads
 

Prodigal

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For the low cars - QJ sells now extra low profile rubber blocks - https://www.quickjack.com/1-5-low-profile-blocks/ - so no drive on ramps are needed.

However - they are longer than trays in my QJ - their tech support called me back and said the design has changed and trays are now longer (my Quickjack is probably close to 8 years old now and it has been completely problem and maintenance free). I cut two of them down (length wise) using Milwaukee utility knife to make them fit but now Quickjack slides right under the car without an issue.

I also use ZL1 add ons lift pads that bolt on the pinch welds and stay there permanently - much less pain in the ass than trying to align lift pucks with the pinch welds.

https://zl1addons.com/collections/jackpads-magpads/products/mustang-bolt-on-lift-pads
The lower height lift blocks eoukd help but they aren’t compatible with the 7000 series QJ. I suspect the 1.5 height wouldn’t clear the depth of the tray.
 

JOKER M1

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For the low cars - QJ sells now extra low profile rubber blocks - https://www.quickjack.com/1-5-low-profile-blocks/ - so no drive on ramps are needed.

However - they are longer than trays in my QJ - their tech support called me back and said the design has changed and trays are now longer (my Quickjack is probably close to 8 years old now and it has been completely problem and maintenance free). I cut two of them down (length wise) using Milwaukee utility knife to make them fit but now Quickjack slides right under the car without an issue.

I also use ZL1 add ons lift pads that bolt on the pinch welds and stay there permanently - much less pain in the ass than trying to align lift pucks with the pinch welds.

https://zl1addons.com/collections/jackpads-magpads/products/mustang-bolt-on-lift-pads
A slight clarification is needed here, the low profile pads don’t fit all the QJ’s, for example on the 7000TLX the tray is taller than the pad. It’s my understanding QJ wasn’t aware of this either because when I told them they were very surprised.

Regarding the ZL1 pinch weld lift pads, I use them as well and also highly recommend them for anyone using any kind of jack
 

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kz

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A slight clarification is needed here, the low profile pads don’t fit all the QJ’s, for example on the 7000TLX the tray is taller than the pad. It’s my understanding QJ wasn’t aware of this either because when I told them they were very surprised.
That's good clarification - mine is relatively old 5000TLX I think I paid ~$800 for.

It also seems like those low profile blocks don't fit really any of their products very well :) but in my case after cutting down the length they work quite well - before I needed to jack the car up using jack the slowly lower it so it stayed little higher than at ride height.

Drive on-ramps in my garage (4 bays but full with cars and all kinds of other stuff) wouldn't work.
 

JOKER M1

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@kz It’s funny you mention using a jack as I had done that a few times before I cut the bottom of the standard pad down enough for it to clear the ZL1 lift pads. I also filled in the trays so the blocks were always in the same place and the red tape on the pad is used to line up with the ZL1 lift pads. Super quick and easy.

IMG_8340.jpeg
 

TopJimmyCooks

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For the low cars - QJ sells now extra low profile rubber blocks - https://www.quickjack.com/1-5-low-profile-blocks/ - so no drive on ramps are needed.

However - they are longer than trays in my QJ - their tech support called me back and said the design has changed and trays are now longer (my Quickjack is probably close to 8 years old now and it has been completely problem and maintenance free). I cut two of them down (length wise) using Milwaukee utility knife to make them fit but now Quickjack slides right under the car without an issue.

I also use ZL1 add ons lift pads that bolt on the pinch welds and stay there permanently - much less pain in the ass than trying to align lift pucks with the pinch welds.

https://zl1addons.com/collections/jackpads-magpads/products/mustang-bolt-on-lift-pads
Thanks for the tip on the low-profile pads! I’ve been driving on to 1” boards to get enough clearance.
 

Prodigal

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This is correct
7000 series tray is ~1.75” deep and standard short block is ~2.25” tall
So the cut down 1.5” blocks are definetly a no go. Damn.

IMG_9744.webp


IMG_9745.webp


IMG_9746.webp
 

JOKER M1

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7000 series tray is ~1.75” deep and standard short block is ~2.25” tall
So the cut down 1.5” blocks are definetly a no go. Damn.

IMG_9744.jpeg


IMG_9745.jpeg


IMG_9746.jpeg
Correct but cut down the (bottom) standard low block to what height you need for it to fit under the car, that’s what I did. Now I don’t have to jack it up prior or drive up on a board, also I only did this on the front blocks as the rear has plenty of space. Picture referencing the difference in uncut block(s)

IMG_8341.webp
 

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JOKER M1

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7000 series tray is ~1.75” deep and standard short block is ~2.25” tall
So the cut down 1.5” blocks are definetly a no go. Damn.

IMG_9744.jpeg


IMG_9745.jpeg


IMG_9746.jpeg
Bottom of standard low block, one uncut the other cut. I cut it down about 3/16" as that’s all I needed for clearance

IMG_8342.webp
 

Prodigal

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Correct but cut down the (bottom) standard low block to what height you need for it to fit under the car, that’s what I did. Now I don’t have to jack it up prior or drive up on a board, also I only did this on the front blocks as the rear has plenty of space. Picture referencing the difference in uncut block(s)

IMG_8341.jpeg
Yeah I just have the clearance problem with the front as well. What did you cut the block with? Band saw?
 

kz

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I cut mine with just a knife (Milwaukee utility knife - very sharp).
 

larr12

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First time using it. So far so good.

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