Question regarding SP763 springs

[Stymee]

If you're going to supercharge it I highly recommended upgrading the suspension.

All I’ve done is a BMR CB005, BMR driveshaft loop, along with drag radials and this setup works excellent

I’m not building a drag car, it’s a street car and fwiw my buddy went 10.35@135 on the same susp. setup I have on a 1.53 60ft

Fancy struts and shocks r not needed unless u wanna go faster than 10.00 which I have no plans to do however I agree with you that I should spend the coin on better struts, shocks now if I’m going to do the 763’s as it will ride better and u gotta pull the struts anyway

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[Bluemustang]

All I’ve done is a BMR CB005, BMR driveshaft loop, along with drag radials and this setup works excellent

I’m not building a drag car, it’s a street car and fwiw my buddy went 10.35@135 on the same susp. setup I have on a 1.53 60ft

Fancy struts and shocks r not needed unless u wanna go faster than 10.00 which I have no plans to do however I agree with you that I should spend the coin on better struts, shocks now if I’m going to do the 763’s as it will ride better and u gotta pull the struts anyway

The BMR CB005 and the tires - both of those go a long way I'm sure. I was just going to suggest the CB005, didn't realize you already had it.

 

[Stymee]

The BMR CB005 and the tires - both of those go a long way I'm sure. I was just going to suggest the CB005, didn't realize you already had it.

All good bud

 

[spaz mk will]

Here is the PDF install guide for the Eibach pro kit springs with the part numbers for the Eibach bump stops
https://www.cjponyparts.com/pub/media/images/install-pdf/install_ebs28-1.pdf

Front: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/eib-ebs770044
Rear: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/eib-ebs770060

Just to be sure - should these still be trimmed down to the same height as recommended by lowering spring installation instructions? I have seen that they’re more compliant than stock and do not include the collar, and that folks are drilling them rather than cutting them. What has your experience been with them?

I am installing the sp763 springs, FRPP dampers, and a CB005 on a 2018 GT, non-PP. I also have the lower front K-brace and PP cowl extension (no strut tower yet). 19x10 wheels with 285/35 going on later this spring.

 

[BmacIL]

Just to be sure - should these still be trimmed down to the same height as recommended by lowering spring installation instructions?

No.

 

[TheMegalodon]

Just to be sure - should these still be trimmed down to the same height as recommended by lowering spring installation instructions? I have seen that they’re more compliant than stock and do not include the collar, and that folks are drilling them rather than cutting them. What has your experience been with them?

I am installing the sp763 springs, FRPP dampers, and a CB005 on a 2018 GT, non-PP. I also have the lower front K-brace and PP cowl extension (no strut tower yet). 19x10 wheels with 285/35 going on later this spring.

I didn’t trim them because they’re .24” shorter than the stock ones, a lot more compliant; I drilled some 4mm holes (I’m Canadian so we do metric and imperial haha) in each section to allow for more compression. While I’m still dealing with a noise and feel issue that I believe is attributed to failed factory rear shock mounts, these bump stops have been solid so far.

I have the Koni Active dampers with my SP763s and these damn shocks need enough bump travel to work properly otherwise they unload prematurely. I have J&M rear shock mounts on order and I plan to install those on the second mounting point that allows for another half inch of travel. I’m hoping the bearing based, stronger mount that provides additional shock travel will solve my issue.

Sounds to me like you’re putting together the perfect suspension combo for a performance oriented street car.

 

[spaz mk will]

Thanks for the feedback. Did you create a single hole in each section or do you have multiple per section at some degree of spacing between?

Regarding my component selection, performance oriented street car is the plan. I daily the car and would appreciate a more controlled ride with some decrease in roll; I passed on SP083s due to concerns they would be too stiff as this is a family car on occasion. I plan to run some autocross over the summer, and after reading many posts from yourself, BmacIL, Bluemustang, and others this setup seems like a good place to start. I can always add from here, but I’m wary of doing too much at once and not learning what my changes are doing along the way. Things like sway bars, vertical links, and front control arms can be done later once I know if I want them and better understand what they would change.

 

[TheMegalodon]

Thanks for the feedback. Did you create a single hole in each section or do you have multiple per section at some degree of spacing between?

Regarding my component selection, performance oriented street car is the plan. I daily the car and would appreciate a more controlled ride with some decrease in roll; I passed on SP083s due to concerns they would be too stiff as this is a family car on occasion. I plan to run some autocross over the summer, and after reading many posts from yourself, BmacIL, Bluemustang, and others this setup seems like a good place to start. I can always add from here, but I’m wary of doing too much at once and not learning what my changes are doing along the way. Things like sway bars, vertical links, and front control arms can be done later once I know if I want them and better understand what they would change.

I thought that would be the case. I chose to drill 3 holes equally spaced apart. It was a bit of an experiment and I think it worked well enough. I figured it would give them additional compression that would help me in winter. Biggest issue is the freezing temps making your bump stops harder and less compliant over even rougher snow and ice covered roads.

I think it’s good to start simple with dampers, springs, strut mounts and rear shock mounts alongside the BMR CB005. And of course some better rear bump stops.

 

[spaz mk will]

I thought that would be the case. I chose to drill 3 holes equally spaced apart. It was a bit of an experiment and I think it worked well enough. I figured it would give them additional compression that would help me in winter. Biggest issue is the freezing temps making your bump stops harder and less compliant over even rougher snow and ice covered roads.

I think it’s good to start simple with dampers, springs, strut mounts and rear shock mounts alongside the BMR CB005. And of course some better rear bump stops.

While I don’t experience the kind of winters you do, we don’t have the best roads either. A combo of predominantly flat terrain (sitting water) and temperatures which create near daily expansion/compression cycling, we have terribly pot hole filled roads and lots of poor patchy areas. All that to say, Some additional compression would benefit me I’m sure.

On the shock mounts, I had originally planned to use BMRs for the extra damper travel but have given it a second thought after seeing the failures in that thread. I understand that failures can happen and it may not be the product itself as root cause (lots of variables at play) but I’m not positive I want to take that risk yet, regardless of manufacturer. I’ve seen some people here pivot to the J&M mount, but I haven’t followed up on enough reading to order that yet.

 

[TheMegalodon]

While I don’t experience the kind of winters you do, we don’t have the best roads either. A combo of predominantly flat terrain (sitting water) and temperatures which create near daily expansion/compression cycling, we have terribly pot hole filled roads and lots of poor patchy areas. All that to say, Some additional compression would benefit me I’m sure.

On the shock mounts, I had originally planned to use BMRs for the extra damper travel but have given it a second thought after seeing the failures in that thread. I understand that failures can happen and it may not be the product itself as root cause (lots of variables at play) but I’m not positive I want to take that risk yet, regardless of manufacturer. I’ve seen some people here pivot to the J&M mount, but I haven’t followed up on enough reading to order that yet.

I believe you’ll be much better off with the monotube Bilsteins in the rear than my twin tube Koni’s. If the J&M rear shock mounts don’t solve my noise issue I may - just maaaaybe swap out the Koni rears for Bilsteins.

Also VERY important to remember - the Bilstein front struts have internal bump stops. I don’t believe you can even use bump stops on the struts because the piston diameter is thick.

J&M’s shock mounts offer a mounting point that adds 0.5” of shock travel back so I hope that helps.

Failures on the BMR shock mounts have been few and far between with some owners stupidly running without bump stops, but I’d rather spend less and get the solid looking J&Ms anyway.

 

[spaz mk will]

I believe you’ll be much better off with the monotube Bilsteins in the rear than my twin tube Koni’s. If the J&M rear shock mounts don’t solve my noise issue I may - just maaaaybe swap out the Koni rears for Bilsteins.

Also VERY important to remember - the Bilstein front struts have internal bump stops. I don’t believe you can even use bump stops on the struts because the piston diameter is thick.

J&M’s shock mounts offer a mounting point that adds 0.5” of shock travel back so I hope that helps.

Failures on the BMR shock mounts have been few and far between with some owners stupidly running without bump stops, but I’d rather spend less and get the solid looking J&Ms anyway.

After some reading, I do like the idea of a sacrificial mount that some offer, but the extra travel certainly makes the J&M more desirable. I plan on installing what I have and coming back to evaluate the shock mounts later.

 

[BmacIL]

After some reading, I do like the idea of a sacrificial mount that some offer, but the extra travel certainly makes the J&M more desirable. I plan on installing what I have and coming back to evaluate the shock mounts later.

The only mount that's sacrificial is OEM, and the failures are way, way overblown and have had a reasonable root cause.

 

[spaz mk will]

The only mount that's sacrificial is OEM, and the failures are way, way overblown and have had a reasonable root cause.

I agree, after digging through more of the discussion on failures. The most intriguing thing to me was the mention of a revised BMR design, that alone is worth holding out for prior to installing an aftermarket mount. At this point, I’m waiting more so that I can evaluate changes systematically. This being the first time I’ve ever tinkered with suspension setup, I’m half as excited about the process as I am the results.

 

[BmacIL]

I agree, after digging through more of the discussion on failures. The most intriguing thing to me was the mention of a revised BMR design, that alone is worth holding out for prior to installing an aftermarket mount. At this point, I’m waiting more so that I can evaluate changes systematically. This being the first time I’ve ever tinkered with suspension setup, I’m half as excited about the process as I am the results.

The revised mount is for increased wheel clearance.

 

[StangTime]

My thoughts and questions on the shock mount as it relates to the SP763 springs or similar... if lowering the car, is it better go with a shock mount that gives you back that shock travel like the J&M 25350 does? Add the Eibach 770060 bump stops which are more pliable should bump stop contact occur and you are less likely to stress the metal at the shock mount attachment points. How much shock travel is permissible before we have coil springs compacted or tires rubbing the fender liner? Or is this even anything to consider?

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