Question about Performance Pack

[sotek2345]

Who uses 6th gear in a City..? Let alone 5th gear..?

I try to use 5th when ever I can around town (3.31 gears). I can usually run Ok at about 30 in 5th (around 1k rpm), I just have to downshift to accelerate if/when needed.

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[Grimace427]

Who uses 6th gear in a City..? Let alone 5th gear..?

I shift into 5th around 30mph and 6th around 40mph on flat roads with my 3.73 gears.

 

[OppoLock]

The final drive shouldn't have a heavy impact on your overall fuel efficiency unless you do a lot of highway driving. Given a scenario where factors such as traffic, acceleration, and deceleration are comparable, your MPGs will largely result from a combination of throttle application and RPMs. With a higher final drive, all you have to do is be in a higher gear. You might do some more shifting, but if you manage your RPMs I don't see why it should be of much impact.

If you do a lot of highway driving, you're at the mercy of your highest gear ratio.

 

[scottpe]

Who uses 6th gear in a City..? Let alone 5th gear..?

Uhhmm, as per my post, I DO. I am able to use 5th all the time in the city. And if I had steeper gears, I could use 6th too.

I live in Texas where there's lots of flat land... not many hills to climb or super curvy roads in my area which would necessitate driving at higher rpms. Nearly all of the city speed limits in my area are between 40-50 mph (which translates to 45-55 mph actual speeds for some). Very easy to use 5th in those conditions (or 6th with the right gearing)...

 

[bpang1]

DHG 1078 , even though you live in So Cal, you are 100% correct. I live in Montreal, Canada, real winters, real snow, real cold. All seasons are completely useless in the winter. Actually in my province ( state) winter tires are the law from Dec 15th until March 15th because there were just too many accidents because of all season tires in real winter conditions. Also I buy Pirelli Winter tires, more expensive but its worth it. All season tires are for people in the southern- mid US states, but if you have real winters then buy real winter tires.

Agreed all around. All Seasons are such a big compromise that I only buy them for my straight-up commuter cars. For anything like a Mustang or other go-fast-car I would do separate Summer and Winter wheels/tires.

This last winter, I put my WRX into a curb going all of 10 MPH because I was turning from a downhill slope into a side-street. That same curb saw like 10 other people hit it over the course of the winter (the city installed the curb in front of the guy who's house is at that corner because he was tired of cars pilling up in his lawn). If I had been using my Forester with the snows on it, would've had no problem.

So that was a $500 lesson for me to use snow tires.

 

[sotek2345]

Agreed all around. All Seasons are such a big compromise that I only buy them for my straight-up commuter cars. For anything like a Mustang or other go-fast-car I would do separate Summer and Winter wheels/tires.

This last winter, I put my WRX into a curb going all of 10 MPH because I was turning from a downhill slope into a side-street. That same curb saw like 10 other people hit it over the course of the winter (the city installed the curb in front of the guy who's house is at that corner because he was tired of cars pilling up in his lawn). If I had been using my Forester with the snows on it, would've had no problem.

So that was a $500 lesson for me to use snow tires.

I run summer/winter tires on a Mustang as well, I just run all seasons in the summer (upstate NY so we get real winters here). The risk of a cold snap after changing tires is just too great, especially at night. I also think all seasons handle heavy rain better than summers.

If I did run full summers, I would only trust them in July and August. 10 months on snows does not sound like a good time!

 

[danielc]

I can't believe we are worried about gas millage with a Mustang! This is what computers, technology, and fancy graphs have done (not to mention society as a whole). Its meant to be a fun driven car, so who cares about 5-10 bucks a fill up.

I spend roughly 110km driving for work as I live outside the city, so its highway and lots of city with stop and go. I currently drive a 14 V6 with the 3.31's and drive and shift to have fun, not worry about fuel economy. Thats not why I bought it. If I spend so much time of my day driving I want to have fun while I do it. I have ordered a 15 GT with PP and can't wait to have more fun while driving.

Gas to me is a win lose battle. Looks like these prices (Ontario Canada) are staying for some time, so a couple bucks more to have a good drive isn't a worry to me.

I would say grab the gears and package and have fun driving. Thats why your getting a Mustang right? Also as another member mentioned, the package offers some good upgrades that would be more expensive if done afterwards. Good luck!

 

[MUSThavaSTANG]

3.55 then...the one other than stock.

According to the order guide the only way to get the 3.55 axle on the EB is to get the PP. It doesn't show it as a stand alone like for the V6.

 

[Stuntman]

I'd get the torsen...

 

[scottpe]

I'd get the torsen...

AFAIK, the Torsen is only available on the GT...

 

[DivineStrike]

I've got some questions about the performance pack as well. For those that could provide input. I know the PP is actually a pretty good deal, but how hard/expensive would it be to add those things in later? I know brakes are a pretty big part of it, but don't know what other options are out there to add later?? My main concern for the pp are the upgraded radiator and oil cooler. Those kinds of things.

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[Ruin]

Go on a site like AmericanMuscle.com and price them out individually. Then factor in labor (or time if doing it yourself), and see if the extra ~$35/mo is worth it to you.

 

[Todd15Fastback]

and see if the extra ~$35/mo is worth it to you.

This!! Unless you're a hardcore racer, I feel pretty certain the factory PP will serve just about all of us pretty well. The only part of the PP that I see a lot of people replacing will be the wheels.

The brake package at AM is $1900 bucks, alone!

 

[Whiskey11]

This!! Unless you're a hardcore racer, I feel pretty certain the factory PP will serve just about all of us pretty well. The only part of the PP that I see a lot of people replacing will be the wheels.

The brake package at AM is $1900 bucks, alone!

You can buy a set of Brembo's for the S197 for a lot less than $1900. For one, American Muscle... enough said, for two, new take off GT500 brakes come up all the time for around $800-$1000 if you look. To get some of the higher end brake packages you'll spend money but get a better brake caliper and pad combination than the factory Brembo's. Just wait a few years if you don't think they'll be worth it on the EB or if you want, for some stupid reason, the 15" rotors from the PP.

The only reason I'd be getting the PP is because of the brakes. I hate brake work with a passion so having a decent set from the factory is good. Having a REAL LSD on the EB is crucial too to offset some of the costs of competition as I can move it down the line of stuff to purchase. The springs and dampers will get replaced, ASAP. Ford will have to do some really awesome stuff with their factory stuff for me to enjoy the factory PP setup. I doubt highly that it will be that great, they usually don't do a good job on the damping curve.

 

[Todd15Fastback]

You can buy a set of Brembo's for the S197 for a lot less than $1900. For one, American Muscle... enough said, for two, new take off GT500 brakes come up all the time for around $800-$1000 if you look. To get some of the higher end brake packages you'll spend money but get a better brake caliper and pad combination than the factory Brembo's. Just wait a few years if you don't think they'll be worth it on the EB or if you want, for some stupid reason, the 15" rotors from the PP.

The only reason I'd be getting the PP is because of the brakes. I hate brake work with a passion so having a decent set from the factory is good. Having a REAL LSD on the EB is crucial too to offset some of the costs of competition as I can move it down the line of stuff to purchase. The springs and dampers will get replaced, ASAP. Ford will have to do some really awesome stuff with their factory stuff for me to enjoy the factory PP setup. I doubt highly that it will be that great, they usually don't do a good job on the damping curve.

The price I quoted of $1900 was from American Muscle. Brand new, front and rear setup. 6 pot calipers, 15" rotors and single pot rear setup.

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