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Pulling right at WOT

djcodeman

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Hey guys, hoping for some insight.
2015 gt pp1, roush 2.3 blower, lowered steeda progressives, bmr cradle lock out L2, bmr vertical links.
255/35/20 ps4s up front (32psi)
305/30/20 ps4s in rear (29psi)

Before alignment I was pulling to the right, after still am. I had alignment done at the same place after doing the cradle lockout, previously was running 19 inch wheels and tires.

Last night I rechecked torque on cradle lockout. The bolts were in spec and cradle was lined up properly. I also recently had wheels powdercoated , and rear left wheel had a wobble that I had fixed. When the tire was mounted there were no issues.

Attached is the alignment. Could the rear camber difference from left to right be causing this?

20230221_075236.jpg


20230221_074911.jpg
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TeeLew

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You had a bunch of RR toe out. You bet your ass it'll pull to the right on the gas.

Right now, I'd look at the cross-camber you have in the rear. You've got -2.2 on the RL and -1.8 on the RR. That's enough to make it pull to the left. Stand up the RL to -1.8 and reset the toe. I bet it tracks straight.
 

TeeLew

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You don't have to have any extra parts to adjust rear camber, but there are a couple options that tend to make life a little easier/more secure if you think you're going to be doing alignments often.
 
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djcodeman

djcodeman

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You had a bunch of RR toe out. You bet your ass it'll pull to the right on the gas.

Right now, I'd look at the cross-camber you have in the rear. You've got -2.2 on the RL and -1.8 on the RR. That's enough to make it pull to the left. Stand up the RL to -1.8 and reset the toe. I bet it tracks straight.
That's what I thought. These firestone mechanics have no pride in their work.
 
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djcodeman

djcodeman

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You don't have to have any extra parts to adjust rear camber, but there are a couple options that tend to make life a little easier/more secure if you think you're going to be doing alignments often.
I was thinking the same... bmr parts?
 

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TeeLew

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I was thinking the same... bmr parts?
The rear camber arm is the one part BMR make I don't care for. If you want an eccentric adjuster and a way to lock it all down a little better, this is a good piece and relatively cheap. Moog actually makes a version of this, too, but I think the JM pieces is a little racier. https://hotpart.com/product/2015-present-ford-mustang-rear-camber-arm-adjustment-kit-304-stainless/

If you want the nicest rear camber pieces, IMO, then these: https://aadperformance.com/collections/mustang/products/2015-mustang-s550-rear-camber-teailing-arm

You don't need either one, but these do make the job a little nicer once installed.
 
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djcodeman

djcodeman

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TeeLew

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I actually thought you were talking about their camber arm, but that's the lock-out. I believe you either get max or min camber with that, but no in between. Maybe someone that has ran this can chime in?
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