ProCharger install tips and tricks

[MyLilPony]

Did you not get the plug and play bap? Still slightly confused on why anything related to the BAP is running under the hood.all I remember doing is plugging it in at the fuel pump, at the pedal, and sourcing power and ground.

Above is the best place for access though. Also if it's small enough you can use the old sound tube hole in the fire wall. If you pull the pedal off you have a big hole to use.

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[Bartly]

Did you not get the plug and play bap? Still slightly confused on why anything related to the BAP is running under the hood.all I remember doing is plugging it in at the fuel pump, at the pedal, and sourcing power and ground.

Above is the best place for access though. Also if it's small enough you can use the old sound tube hole in the fire wall. If you pull the pedal off you have a big hole to use.

Yes the JMS booster that comes with the kit. The harness has one end (shown up above in my pic) that goes into the engine compartment and plugs into the vacuum manifold in the pic below. The other end goes through the firewall to the booster in the trunk. Also, I stuck a hole in the center of the sound tube plug with a big screwdriver and there was metal right behind it, tried getting a coat hanger and twisting it around in there but all it was doing was scraping on metal? If I recall there was sound dampening foam when I looked into that hole before snapping the plug in it, wondering if there is a bracket or something right behind it. None the less I'm going to try the method detailed above... As soon as I stop Internetting, lol.

 

[oesman]

Yes the JMS booster that comes with the kit. The harness has one end (shown up above in my pic) that goes into the engine compartment and plugs into the vacuum manifold in the pic below. The other end goes through the firewall to the booster in the trunk. Also, I stuck a hole in the center of the sound tube plug with a big screwdriver and there was metal right behind it, tried getting a coat hanger and twisting it around in there but all it was doing was scraping on metal? If I recall there was sound dampening foam when I looked into that hole before snapping the plug in it, wondering if there is a bracket or something right behind it. None the less I'm going to try the method detailed above... As soon as I stop Internetting, lol.

I could not go through that sound tube hole either man, couldn't figure it out. Just screw that idea and do the one I outlined, save yourself the headache, it's so much more accessible.

 

[bobc775]

Did you not get the plug and play bap? Still slightly confused on why anything related to the BAP is running under the hood.all I remember doing is plugging it in at the fuel pump, at the pedal, and sourcing power and ground.

Above is the best place for access though. Also if it's small enough you can use the old sound tube hole in the fire wall. If you pull the pedal off you have a big hole to use.

Yours is a different model.

 

[Bartly]

Hey, I just did this myself this morning. This is actually really much easier than you think and I hope I can explain it sufficiently:

1. You need to pull the wheel liner off your driver side wheel completely.

2. Just yank all the clips off, don't forget the hidden one under the car at the very edge of the liner!

3. Look in the wheel well and you'll see a large grommet. This bad boy goes right where your feet are!

4. Use a plastic pry tool to pop it out.

5. From the cabin take fish tape or a coat hanger and stick it through the hole right next to the factory wire loom and out into the wheel well.

6. Use electrical tape to secure the loom to the fish tape/hanger.

7. Carefully pull that bad boy through from the cabin until it's in. Helps to have a friend who can pull while you guide from the outside, I ended up going back and forth between feeding it in and pulling it.

8. I then carefully cut a notch into the grommet so it was able to snap in around the new loom and used silicon to make it weather proof. Alternatively you can mess with making a neat hole in the grommet before step #6, but that grommet is thick and difficult to work with and I'm a big guy and get frustrated in tight spaces/angles so carving a notch and silicon was easier.

9. Go ahead and just use a trim tool to shove the loom under the plastic where your foot rest is. That plastic gives so easily, i've actually caught my pinky toe under it when driving barefoot (ouch!)

10. There is a middle piece of trim that runs parallel to your driver's seat that pops off, just pull on that sucker all around until it's out or again just shove the loom under it. Keep going until you reach the back seats.

11. I think you know what to do from here ;).

Wanted to say thanks again. Here are some pics of that grommet. Funny I saw it from the inside when I started but got confused trying to find it on the engine side when I was trying to figure it out last night. I ended up cutting the tip off of a second port (I'm thinking that's what it's for. fed the wire through from the inside and it just funneled out that opening and fit nice and snug. Thanks again for the wheelwell details. Also, thanks for all the others who gave me help along the way. Hopefully this thread helps others.

 

[jabrax]

I'm all over this thread like a fly on poop LOL. Going to spend the next week reading though the opg install (all sections a few times) then decide if going to pay or do it myself. Lowest quote I have so far is 1200.

Been convincing myself I'm not in a rush. Its wintertime, but walking past the procharger parts and not putting on is killing me

 

[15dib]

lol I had the big ass box in my living room for a while too. I'm going to do opgs next month. I got quoted 500$ for install. I barely had enough time to install the procharger so I'll just let someone else do it lol.

 

[Bartly]

Okay, so I have a bit of a glitch. Yesterday when showing my new Procharger to some coworkers I can't get rid of a "hood ajar" icon on my dash. I can think of two areas that might have something to do with this. First is the JMS BAP wiring I fished through the panel the hood release lever is located on by the driver pedals. I took that panel off and the release mechanism looks like it should, not blocked by the BAP wire harness. One thing I noticed is the release mechanism is able to rotate a few degrees on it's mounting bolt. I played with this a bit, but could not get the light to go off on the dash. The second area is the PCV tube and surge vacuum line that gets routed on top of the radiator. This is where the hood switch is from what I am told. Wondering if anyone else has had this happen. The hood is definitely latched down, just the light wont go off. Thanks.

 

[whatsup62]

Okay, so I have a bit of a glitch. Yesterday when showing my new Procharger to some coworkers I can't get rid of a "hood ajar" icon on my dash. I can think of two areas that might have something to do with this. First is the JMS BAP wiring I fished through the panel the hood release lever is located on by the driver pedals. I took that panel off and the release mechanism looks like it should, not blocked by the BAP wire harness. One thing I noticed is the release mechanism is able to rotate a few degrees on it's mounting bolt. I played with this a bit, but could not get the light to go off on the dash. The second area is the PCV tube and surge vacuum line that gets routed on top of the radiator. This is where the hood switch is from what I am told. Wondering if anyone else has had this happen. The hood is definitely latched down, just the light wont go off. Thanks.

I have seen a few guys have this issue. It was solved by adjusting the switch by latch on top of radiator.

 

[oesman]

I have seen a few guys have this issue. It was solved by adjusting the switch by latch on top of radiator.

I would look here too.

I doubt u punctured anything installing the booster. Most likely its when u messed with the rad braces.

 

[Bartly]

I have seen a few guys have this issue. It was solved by adjusting the switch by latch on top of radiator.

I would look here too.

I doubt u punctured anything installing the booster. Most likely its when u messed with the rad braces.

Cool, thanks guys, I'll take a look up there tonight.

 

[sanchezcruz_20]

Okay, so I have a bit of a glitch. Yesterday when showing my new Procharger to some coworkers I can't get rid of a "hood ajar" icon on my dash. I can think of two areas that might have something to do with this. First is the JMS BAP wiring I fished through the panel the hood release lever is located on by the driver pedals. I took that panel off and the release mechanism looks like it should, not blocked by the BAP wire harness. One thing I noticed is the release mechanism is able to rotate a few degrees on it's mounting bolt. I played with this a bit, but could not get the light to go off on the dash. The second area is the PCV tube and surge vacuum line that gets routed on top of the radiator. This is where the hood switch is from what I am told. Wondering if anyone else has had this happen. The hood is definitely latched down, just the light wont go off. Thanks.

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1224130#post1224130

 

[Bartly]

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1224130#post1224130

Missed your post, but just basically saw exactly what you did. Funny, back in March I was purposely avoiding the FI section cause I had zero interest in taking it this far. Guess I should have been more careful pushing the intercooler up as far as I could without checking to see what it was bottoming out on. I noticed that metal tab the cable pulls on falls back onto the intercooler, already rubbed my paint off of it in two days. Steel rubbing on aluminum is never good, so I raised my latch a smidge for the time being. I see myself taking the bumper off again shortly, damn.

I think I was kind of exhausted by the time I got about half way through the PC install after doing the OPG. I think I might need to go look at the surge valve/filter area. I know when I finished the end of the filter sits against the bumper cover. Thinking I got close to cutting that 1.5" 90 too short already, so need to buy another and see if I can do any better, maybe push the intercooler back a smudge.

Might be common sense to those that have done FI in the past, I should have been checking the fit of the bumper the whole time I was making those connections on the driver side.

Thanks again for all the insight.

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