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Whipple Gen 3 Install Tips & Tricks

Bbarfoot14

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So basically I just finished the Whipple install and the parts and the quality of them are phenomenal. Unfortunately the installation instructions could be optimized and do not provide the easiest way to install and torque all appropriate components. I believe I can outline a few tips that were provided to me from a fellow member who also has Installed several of these that can make your installation a lot easier.

1st: This may be the most important tip I can give you. If you read through the instructions as whipple provides them you know that they tell you to install the fuel rails prior to installing the manifold. Doing so makes it in possible to properly torque all the bolts regardless of the pattern they give you. The key is actually installing the manifold on its own without fuel rails torquing the bolts specific to the manifold (6) in the order provided then installing the fuel rails and torquing those 4 bolts to finish. There is virtually no way to properly torque these bolts in the order Whipple provides.

2nd: I believe one of the install video covers this but in order to properly extend the knock sensors you need to remove the 90° elbow’s from the connection points. As well you need to cut off additional electric tape at the back end near the firewall in order to give it enough slack to run thru the valley.

3rd: You’ll notice in your driver side heater hose extension kit you have a few extra parts or parts that don’t seem to have a place. This is because they no longer use the heat shrink at the t-clamp And recommend to use the pinch clamps now

4th: You should check the belt given to you by Whipple a lot of the new kits are getting the 102 gates belts which are not able to fit properly. The kits have for a long time Come with the 106 Gates belts and this is what I used and find the most success with. This was recommended by a fellow forum member who does a lot of these

5th: Contrary to the instructions you are not able to cycle the intercooler pump on initial start up by going into accessory mode for clicking the ignition. Our cars require it to fully start the vehicle.

6th: This is just a minor tip but it’s a lot easier to torque the fuel rail nipples and extensions when the rail is already torqued to the manifold. Again recommended by that forum member.

7th: the intake box snorkel does not bolt in as the instructions suggest. Just slide it into the spot in the car before installing the intake assembly.

Here is my final product, no belt crickets or belt squeak noise.
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Torinate

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Thanks!
 

Torinate

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Did you do the bigger heat exchanger? Do you have ACC?
 

96gt4.6

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Point #2 should state Knock Sensors, not crank sensors :).
 
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Bbarfoot14

Bbarfoot14

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Did you do the bigger heat exchanger? Do you have ACC?
Not sure, the exchanges that came with my kit was cetinely bigger then that in the picture of the install instructions but I didn’t specifically order the larger one. No ACC
 

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Bbarfoot14

Bbarfoot14

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96gt4.6

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No problem. I may change out to that 106 belt if my 102 Continental ever gives me issues like the supplied Gates 102 did as far as squeak. I also used the heat shrink clamps on the hoses as my instructions were older it appears, i'm assuming Whipple had issues with those?

Sounds good!
 
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Bbarfoot14

Bbarfoot14

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No problem. I may change out to that 106 belt if my 102 Continental ever gives me issues like the supplied Gates 102 did as far as squeak. I also used the heat shrink clamps on the hoses as my instructions were older it appears, i'm assuming Whipple had issues with those?

Sounds good!
Not so much whipple issues, they mentioned a lot of folks arnt heating them enough and it’s the most common leak point when done incorrectly at the T connection. So they figured band clamps would be fool proof that’s all.
 

Gee

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Glad you made this thread, thank you. Do the pinch clamps you mention for the d/s heater hose at the T junction come with the kit or did you buy them separately. If bought separately, part number?
 
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Bbarfoot14

Bbarfoot14

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They come with it, their actually band clamps technically as you’ll use a flat head or screwdriver to tighten them down. Use the heat shrink on the heater hose section as you did for the passenger side.
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