ProCharger install tips and tricks

[Crackerjack17]

I see you have long tubes I hope you weren't planning to use the standard tune.

No. I don't have the long tubes installed yet. I bought the long tubes and exhaust along with a ngauge lund tune and was going to run that for a while, then ended up buying the procharger before I finished installing the headers, lol. And the stage 2 kit comes with ngauge, lol, so now I have two of them. So I'm going to run their stock tune for a little while and then get custom lund tune.

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[bobc775]

I have longtubes and I'm going to run the can tune for now. I really want to keep the nguage but I don't want to pay extra to unlock it. I don't know if to keep the xcal or the nguage.

Have you driven the car with the canned tune yet?

 

[Crackerjack17]

I have longtubes and I'm going to run the can tune for now. I really want to keep the nguage but I don't want to pay extra to unlock it. I don't know if to keep the xcal or the nguage.

So once I use the procharger ngauge, it's locked to me? They haven't emailed me the tune back because I just emailed it this morning. I guess they are closed for the holidays. I'll likely finish up install this weekend.

 

[15dib]

I'm not sure but while I was waiting for the sc to ship I was emailing with john from Lund and he said they would have to unlock it to tune with them. I already had multiple tunes from them but on my xcal.

 

[15dib]

Have you driven the car with the canned tune yet?

Yea not for long but I took it for a short drive. It didn't give me any codes or anything.

 

[Bartly]

Can you guys give me some guidance.
First I'm having a bugger of a time getting the clamp on the blower to fit well over the hose. I've even had someone help me by pushing the clamp on the topside flush with the face of the blower while I do the same on the underside and tighten the clamp at the same time. Everytime I get done it seems to "smudge" the clamp off the end of the hose creating a gap everywhere but where the clamp screw is. I have T-bolt clamp that I was trying with and was getting the same results. I see the end of the hose is pushed up against the blower, but the clamp is just all jacked. Anyone? Not sure if I should run it this way?

Next, following the JMS fuel pump booster instructions it says put the grey and black wire lugs onto the pressure switch on the vacuum manifold. Here is a pic of that end of the cable, just wondering where the red wire gets plugged and why they are labled "vehicle ground" and "ground to enable" guessing that's just what the pressure switch terminals do?

Lastly and one I cant figure out either is where can I get these big connectors through the driver side firewall. I tried poking a hole into the soundtube plug, but near as I can tell there is metal directly behind it and the size of the connectors on the cable are just not going to fit. Is Drilling a hole the best solution, where would you drill? It specifically says pass through the firewall on the driverside, so I'm not sure if the harness is long enough to rought via the passenger side.

Appreciate any help you can offer. Thanks.

 

[bobc775]

I just wrapped up the red wire with they other 2 wire and taped them together. There is no connection for that wire. As for the firewall I drilled a pilot hole then a 1/2" hole just to the left of the steering bracket and above the center of that bracket. I taped up the end that goes to the vacuum device and fished it thru the hole and then up along the wire harness by the injectors to the vacuum device.. Not sure what to tell you regarding the clamp. It may be time to take a break and throw a hammer at something. Seems to help.

 

[Bartly]

I just wrapped up the red wire with they other 2 wire and taped them together. There is no connection for that wire. As for the firewall I drilled a pilot hole then a 1/2" hole just to the left of the steering bracket and above the center of that bracket. I taped up the end that goes to the vacuum device and fished it thru the hole and then up along the wire harness by the injectors to the vacuum device.. Not sure what to tell you regarding the clamp. It may be time to take a break and throw a hammer at something. Seems to help.

Thanks, curious if after you started routing the cable if there was a bunch of extra length? Just wondering if it's worth trying the passenger side. I only say that cause I've seen reference to a way to pass through the passenger side by punching an existing grommet. But I don't know if for some reason the driver side is mandatory. I'm open to drilling but, but, but...lol. Yep definately time for a break, low blood sugar, for some reason I forgot to eat today, busy outing stuff together. All that left over turkey leftovers, going to sleep like a baby tonight. Thanks for chiming in, and the info on the red wire. I appreciate it, might hit you up for a pic of the hole you drilled?

Funny "throwing a hammer thing". I have some custom holes shaped like my 12" crescent wrench in my tool pegboard. Cut through pegboard like it as Swiss cheese.

Anyone else have any input? I'm worried about that hose clamp on the intake. I must have tried 4 times and it keeps slipping off by probably 1/16" (maybe a hair more) opposite the clamp screw. Weird I can only keep the screw side fixed against the blows even though it starts off fully seated all around by pressing against it with a couple screw drivers. It's like the clamp is sprung wanting to back off. It feels locked solid on there, just sketchy to see it catywompus like that.

 

[MyLilPony]

That is the hose clamp I told you to ditch and go buy a 4.5 inch T clamp to replace. It is wider and easrier to get on. There is no way to get that worm clamp on there IMHO

 

[MyLilPony]

Why are you drilling into your firewall again? Your JMS is better located in the trunk. I can't think of a reason to try and put it under the hood if that is where you are trying to put it.

 

[MyLilPony]

See how much wider the Tbolt is

 

[MyLilPony]

Read this thread on your BAP. Save your headache and do not put anything under the hood.

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27976&highlight=Jms+bap

Here is a pic of where I put mine. You can also hide it behind the driver side trunk liner.

 

[Bartly]

Why are you drilling into your firewall again? Your JMS is better located in the trunk. I can't think of a reason to try and put it under the hood if that is where you are trying to put it.

No, not trying to mount the booster under the hood. Trying to get the wire harness from the pressure switch on the manifold into the car and routed to the trunk. The wire (actually about 3/8" diameter wire harness with loom) needs to go through the firewall from the engine compartment to the booster in the trunk and the PC instructions say to pass through on the driver side.

Read this thread on your BAP. Save your headache and do not put anything under the hood.

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27976&highlight=Jms+bap

Here is a pic of where I put mine. You can also hide it behind the driver side trunk liner.

Cool, thanks I'll give the thread a read.

See how much wider the Tbolt is

Well I went and bought a T-Bolt clamp after your suggestion, found out today it's a touch too big. I'm going to go try and buy a smaller one tomorrow and give it another go. I see your clamp is also pulling away showing some rubber on the backside of it too, see where it touches on the blower on the driver side and starts to separate at the top. That's basically what I'm seeing with mine and has me worried. I'll see where I end up tomorrow (hopefully with a new clamp).

Thanks for the replies, love the help.

 

[oesman]

No, not trying to mount the booster under the hood. Trying to get the wire harness from the pressure switch on the manifold into the car and routed to the trunk. The wire (actually about 3/8" diameter wire harness with loom) needs to go through the firewall from the engine compartment to the booster in the trunk and the PC instructions say to pass through on the driver side.

Hey, I just did this myself this morning. This is actually really much easier than you think and I hope I can explain it sufficiently:

1. You need to pull the wheel liner off your driver side wheel completely.

2. Just yank all the clips off, don't forget the hidden one under the car at the very edge of the liner!

3. Look in the wheel well and you'll see a large grommet. This bad boy goes right where your feet are!

4. Use a plastic pry tool to pop it out.

5. From the cabin take fish tape or a coat hanger and stick it through the hole right next to the factory wire loom and out into the wheel well.

6. Use electrical tape to secure the loom to the fish tape/hanger.

7. Carefully pull that bad boy through from the cabin until it's in. Helps to have a friend who can pull while you guide from the outside, I ended up going back and forth between feeding it in and pulling it.

8. I then carefully cut a notch into the grommet so it was able to snap in around the new loom and used silicon to make it weather proof. Alternatively you can mess with making a neat hole in the grommet before step #6, but that grommet is thick and difficult to work with and I'm a big guy and get frustrated in tight spaces/angles so carving a notch and silicon was easier.

9. Go ahead and just use a trim tool to shove the loom under the plastic where your foot rest is. That plastic gives so easily, i've actually caught my pinky toe under it when driving barefoot (ouch!)

10. There is a middle piece of trim that runs parallel to your driver's seat that pops off, just pull on that sucker all around until it's out or again just shove the loom under it. Keep going until you reach the back seats.

11. I think you know what to do from here ;).

 

[Bartly]

Hey, I just did this myself this morning. This is actually really much easier than you think and I hope I can explain it sufficiently:

1. You need to pull the wheel liner off your driver side wheel completely.

2. Just yank all the clips off, don't forget the hidden one under the car at the very edge of the liner!

3. Look in the wheel well and you'll see a large grommet. This bad boy goes right where your feet are!

4. Use a plastic pry tool to pop it out.

5. From the cabin take fish tape or a coat hanger and stick it through the hole right next to the factory wire loom and out into the wheel well.

6. Use electrical tape to secure the loom to the fish tape/hanger.

7. Carefully pull that bad boy through from the cabin until it's in. Helps to have a friend who can pull while you guide from the outside, I ended up going back and forth between feeding it in and pulling it.

8. I then carefully cut a notch into the grommet so it was able to snap in around the new loom and used silicon to make it weather proof. Alternatively you can mess with making a neat hole in the grommet before step #6, but that grommet is thick and difficult to work with and I'm a big guy and get frustrated in tight spaces/angles so carving a notch and silicon was easier.

9. Go ahead and just use a trim tool to shove the loom under the plastic where your foot rest is. That plastic gives so easily, i've actually caught my pinky toe under it when driving barefoot (ouch!)

10. There is a middle piece of trim that runs parallel to your driver's seat that pops off, just pull on that sucker all around until it's out or again just shove the loom under it. Keep going until you reach the back seats.

11. I think you know what to do from here ;).

Awesome. Thanks for taking the time to write that, makes sense.

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