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Poly diff lock out, partial install ok?

BmacIL

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The Chairman

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Wrong parts there. That's the subframe. We're talking diff.
Oops. Was about a foot off....:crying:
But as I recall, the new bolts that come with the diff lockout bushing are larger and don’t need a sleeve at the diff? I already installed them in both my GT350 and GT500. So I don’t have a pix. I could be wrong on that aspect.
The subframe movement is an issue. Need to tighten up those mounts too. There is a video out there somewhere that shows how much the subframe moves and why there is wheel hop.
 

BmacIL

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Oops. Was about a foot off....:crying:
But as I recall, the new bolts that come with the diff lockout bushing are larger and don’t need a sleeve at the diff? I already installed them in both my GT350 and GT500. So I don’t have a pix. I could be wrong on that aspect.
The subframe movement is an issue. Need to tighten up those mounts too. There is a video out there somewhere that shows how much the subframe moves and why there is wheel hop.
Yes, the CB005 takes care of about 95% of the subframe movement.
 

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Should be easy enough to get someone to measure the height of the factory bushing and ID, and the OD of the factory bolt. McMaster-Carr has tons of sizes of bushing sleeves you can order...
 

BmacIL

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Should be easy enough to get someone to measure the height of the factory bushing and ID, and the OD of the factory bolt. McMaster-Carr has tons of sizes of bushing sleeves you can order...
True indeed. Pretty sure it's 14mm ID with M12
 

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I'll try and measure today. Think im going to roll the dice on rears only. Curious if I'll even notice anything.

Drilling out a bushing with the wrong ID isn't a problem. Turning down the OD to fit the ID of the stock bushing is beyond my tool setup though
 
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Grimreaper

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ID of rear diff bushing sleeve is 17.30 mm
The stock bolt unthreaded portion is around 12.8mm diameter. The BMR 10.9 grade hardware is 13.8mm diameter.

Bushing center section is right at 55mm long.
I tried a few sockets that ranged from 17.15mm to 17.3mm diameter. 17.3mm is very snug and takes bit of force but it slides in by hand. Even a few hundredths less would be better than nothing.

I'll start looking into off the shelf options. Mcmaster Carr will custom make sizes too but at that price point lethal kit is in range.

I don't get why Ford left so much gap. Not a precision part at all.

My driver side had a small tear in it at 8k miles. No track time. And maybe 6 street launches on street tires using LC. Crazy how soft the rubber is. The eraser on a #2 pencil is firmer
 

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ID of rear diff bushing sleeve is 17.30 mm
The stock bolt unthreaded portion is around 12.8mm diameter. The BMR 10.9 grade hardware is 13.8mm diameter.

Bushing center section is right at 55mm long.
I tried a few sockets that ranged from 17.15mm to 17.3mm diameter. 17.3mm is very snug and takes bit of force but it slides in by hand. Even a few hundredths less would be better than nothing.

I'll start looking into off the shelf options. Mcmaster Carr will custom make sizes too but at that price point lethal kit is in range.

I don't get why Ford left so much gap. Not a precision part at all.

My driver side had a small tear in it at 8k miles. No track time. And maybe 6 street launches on street tires using LC. Crazy how soft the rubber is. The eraser on a #2 pencil is firmer
Thank you for this! If push comes to shove, I have a good friend that has a CNC so we could make up some steel sleeves. I'll take a look tomorrow and see what's commercially available.
 

BmacIL

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Thank you for this! If push comes to shove, I have a good friend that has a CNC so we could make up some steel sleeves. I'll take a look tomorrow and see what's commercially available.
Either way, this is something everyone should do.
 
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Grimreaper

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Best I've found pre made. Puts the OD at 0.16mm too large but might be able to be tapped in with lite hammer taps

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Steel-Bush...EE-SHIPPING-/114071096410?hash=item1a8f2acc5a

Could also drill out the diff bushing a bit too. But rear floor pan may limit drill access.
ID will need to be drilled out.

These guys offer custom sizes. Will see what they say about our needs.

Any suggestions or thoughts on the material? Is aluminum ok in this application or is steel preferred? Zinc coated?
 

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Grimreaper

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No luck. Can't get a return response from them.

Small batches of these may be difficult to get made and keep it worthwhile over the $50 through bolt kit from lethal.
@Tuxedomouse I'd be curious what your friend would charge for a set if these if he is up to it.
 
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Grimreaper

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On another note the rear poly inserts do transmit more of the thud noise at initial take off. Sounds like a tool box sliding around in the back or loose groceries. The responsiveness from two less super soft rubber bushing is noticed on take off and decel. Reminds me the results after cleaning a throttle body with 50k miles of buildup on the back of the throttle blade. Sharper intital response at tip in that quickly dissipates as things start moving. But you do get used to it rather quickly.
 

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No luck. Can't get a return response from them.

Small batches of these may be difficult to get made and keep it worthwhile over the $50 through bolt kit from lethal.
@Tuxedomouse I'd be curious what your friend would charge for a set if these if he is up to it.

I would think anyone with CNC machine or even a lathe could make these pretty easily and cheap.
 

shogun32

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I bought some stock and the reamers to make these. Just haven't gotten around to doing it. Does not need CNC, any old manual lathe is fine. But $50 for the higher grade bolts and collars is not a ridiculous price. If nothing else just do the collars and the rear bolts.

But to answer your original question, yes you can do 'half a lockout kit' but like BmacIL said I'm not so sure how that would impact the longevity of the front bolts.
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