BMR Suspension's BK051 POLY Diff Lockout Kit: Close-Up Look, Pics and Info!

[GTPP]

Thanks for the tips. Hopefully I'll have it installed in the next week or so. I'll be doing the heavy duty bolts, do ill let everyone know how it goes.

Sponsored

 

[BMR Tech]

For those who are waiting on these, if you are reading, we are doing our best to catch up right now. We sold several hundred sets during the Holidays and it wiped us out.

We have our guys on it though, so maybe a few more days.

Thanks for all of your support!

 

[jvm051]

Did the replacement of the Steeda bushings and swapped in the BMR BK051's with the through bolts friday night. For those looking to do the install of the bushings for the first time, we did find that for the front bushings that go in next to the gas tank, they were a little easier to wedge in that tight location than the Steeda ones were. The BMR bushings are slightly thinner and think this helped. Also having the lock washers with the BMR kit is a positive since Steeda does not use the lock washers, and tells you to get a torque wrench on them...sorry, ain't no way you are getting a torque wrench on the front bushings...

On to the through bolts. This was installed at my friends shop on his lift. We looked over the best way to attack this after reviewing the pictures Kelly posted. In order to get the drill bit in the opening to drill, we needed to drop the subframe way down so they drill was not going in at an angle. The right side of the car was no biggie, but the left side required removing the connection of hoses that clips into the bottom of the spare tire well from the bottom of the car to get the drill straight. From there commence drilling. Once that was all taken care of, it was time to install the through bolts from the back. Now ymmv with this next step as we found out the bolts would not just go right into the hole because they were going in at an angle...Why you ask? I have the FRPP halfshafts on my car. The fix ended up being disconnecting the bolt that holds the brake likes to the suspension to get some slack, removing the top bolt on the vertical link and the top bolt on the control arm, and popping out the halfshafts about an inch from the differential to get the space needed to run the bolts into the freshly drilled holes. Took a little longer than expected, but not too bad. Checked how much material was needed to remove from the diff cover so the bolt heads fit flush, broke out the dremel, and in went the through bolts. Reinstalled the halfshafts, bolted the suspension back up and the install was complete. It would be interesting to know if the stock halfshafts have enough room to install without having to pull them.

 

[BMR Tech]

Wow thanks for sharing! Not sure how the heck I missed this! Thank you for sharing your experience. As for the shafts, we did not have to remove them on one of our PP cars with stock shafts.

I'm actually about to test a custom configuration on my PP car. Included in it is, 12.9 hardware and a few other pieces I will not share at this time due to no one else offering it/them.

After I find they are sufficient for the abuse I put them through, I am going to try and find a test car with massive power and a manual transmission to help test them out.

The through bolt is superior....but I've got some pretty cool stuff going on that "may" work as well without the work.

 

[jvm051]

Wow thanks for sharing! Not sure how the heck I missed this! Thank you for sharing your experience. As for the shafts, we did not have to remove them on one of our PP cars with stock shafts.

I'm actually about to test a custom configuration on my PP car. Included in it is, 12.9 hardware and a few other pieces I will not share at this time due to no one else offering it/them.

After I find they are sufficient for the abuse I put them through, I am going to try and find a test car with massive power and a manual transmission to help test them out.

The through bolt is superior....but I've got some pretty cool stuff going on that "may" work as well without the work.

Kelly,
Like I mentioned, I am guessing with stock shafts the bolts would have gone in just fine, and the through bolts look to be a whole lot stronger. At least we did not have to remove the half shafts completely, Just give them a little extra room. I will be curious to see if you end up making any changes after all your testing to the front bolts. Regardless in a few years, when this becomes my race car, I will be going to your solid aluminum bushings.

 

[armykyle1 [HACKED ACCOUNT]

Wow thanks for sharing! Not sure how the heck I missed this! Thank you for sharing your experience. As for the shafts, we did not have to remove them on one of our PP cars with stock shafts.

I'm actually about to test a custom configuration on my PP car. Included in it is, 12.9 hardware and a few other pieces I will not share at this time due to no one else offering it/them.

After I find they are sufficient for the abuse I put them through, I am going to try and find a test car with massive power and a manual transmission to help test them out.

The through bolt is superior....but I've got some pretty cool stuff going on that "may" work as well without the work.

I'm very curious about this.

I'm Definitely looking at doing this insert kit. Gear whine won't bother me any.

You said you installed the insert kit on a car with a 1 peice driveshaft and there was more noise but less vibration correct? Would this be due to the diff not being properly aligned?

 

[Jeff_oddo]

Any update on these?

 

[Bluemustang]

Kelly, I wanna hear about the new solution BMR comes up with for the differential. As we've discussed I just don't have peace of mind I'd like to have. If BMR comes up with a fool proof solution so I can keep my parts intact, I'm there! Til then keep doing what you do.

 

[jvm051]

Kelly, I wanna hear about the new solution BMR comes up with for the differential. As we've discussed I just don't have peace of mind I'd like to have. If BMR comes up with a fool proof solution so I can keep my parts intact, I'm there! Til then keep doing what you do.

I can't speak for Kelly, but I've talked with him quite a bit on this, as I too wanted the most foolproof solution, but did not want to go full Aluminum at this time since it is currently my daily. That is the best solution BMR offers as it does away with the stock rubber bushings and replaces them with solid Aluminum. The slop is gone period then so no chance for the bolts to move and snap. I choose to do the BK051's with the rear through bolt upgrade that comes with the kit, and Kelly also hooked me up with the front through bolts that currently are not with the kit. He is also testing the fronts on his car. The through bolts get the load off the threads and onto the shank, as Ford should have done from the factory. Yes they do take a little more time to install, and some modifications have to be done to the car but they are minor. Prior to the BK051's I had the Steeda diff bushings, while I did not see any issues when removing, I wanted the piece of mind the through bolts had to offer. Nothing is foolproof, but the through bolt approach seems the best option unless going solid.

 

[keltymd]

So I just installed this on my 17 GT PP and I've got to say I have stock half shafts and I could not get the bolt to feed in from the axle side I had to come from the back and grind off a little bit more metal on the passenger side of the differential cover so I can get them not to sit flat

 

[Bluemustang]

I can't speak for Kelly, but I've talked with him quite a bit on this, as I too wanted the most foolproof solution, but did not want to go full Aluminum at this time since it is currently my daily. That is the best solution BMR offers as it does away with the stock rubber bushings and replaces them with solid Aluminum. The slop is gone period then so no chance for the bolts to move and snap. I choose to do the BK051's with the rear through bolt upgrade that comes with the kit, and Kelly also hooked me up with the front through bolts that currently are not with the kit. He is also testing the fronts on his car. The through bolts get the load off the threads and onto the shank, as Ford should have done from the factory. Yes they do take a little more time to install, and some modifications have to be done to the car but they are minor. Prior to the BK051's I had the Steeda diff bushings, while I did not see any issues when removing, I wanted the piece of mind the through bolts had to offer. Nothing is foolproof, but the through bolt approach seems the best option unless going solid.

Thanks dude, I really appreciate that response - because you seem to be thinking similar to me on this one. I am using the Steeda differential urethane bushings right now and I'm just uneasy with the setup even though it probably it is fine. When I hear all the clunking happening with this setup, I start to worry about the stock bolt arrangement, especially know what I learned about some people's cars. Not knocking the Steeda kit at all, but I will be reassured with a foolproof solution.

I really want to have peace of mind on this especially when you're taking about the differential - which is the thing that delivers power to the wheels. I'm willing to deal with some of the downsides to the differential inserts for the performance benefits - but only if I am confident my car is reliable and won't break.

So I'll be looking into what BMR comes up with next or I may consider the BK051 w the through bolt arrangement with added support.

 

[MiDiablo]

Dammit. More BMR bits to acquire and install. :lol:

 

[highvoltage]

Are these in stock Kelly? Ready to order a set and some front camber bolts.

 

[BMR Tech]

Are these in stock Kelly? Ready to order a set and some front camber bolts.

Brock, they are being packaged as I type this.

They have quickly jumped to being one of our most popular items, so I would go ahead and place the order to ensure there is no delay.

Enjoy! :cheers:

 

[highvoltage]

Will do Kelly!

Sponsored