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Poly diff lock out, partial install ok?

Grimreaper

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Soo the nvh most find with doing any sort of diff lockout seems to cover a wide spectrum. some hear ghosts at 40mph shrieking in their ears and others barely a whine similar to an mgw or barton shifter install.

Is it ok do to one or two of the poly inserts without doing all 4?

Iirc the gt350 has a different and firmer bushing on the driver rear only. Guessing Ford wanted to catch the diff under load as it twisted with the other bushings? Why not copy this?

The rear 2 bushings are easy enough to do with minimal time lost. Using BMR BK051

Thoughts?
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gixxersixxerman

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Soo the nvh most find with doing any sort of diff lockout seems to cover a wide spectrum. some hear ghosts at 40mph shrieking in their ears and others barely a whine similar to an mgw or barton shifter install.

Is it ok do to one or two of the poly inserts without doing all 4?

Iirc the gt350 has a different and firmer bushing on the driver rear only. Guessing Ford wanted to catch the diff under load as it twisted with the other bushings? Why not copy this?

The rear 2 bushings are easy enough to do with minimal time lost. Using BMR BK051

Thoughts?
ive only done the rear 2, I seen many posts about doing just the rear without issue. I don’t have any whine but I can hear the clunk now putting it in gear and shifting some times.
 

BmacIL

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I'd strongly advise against it. You're shifting the load path. Either do the whole thing and through bolt it, or leave it stock. The front bolts will shear eventually if you do the rears only.
 
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Grimreaper

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@BmacIL Appreciate the heads up. I was trying to find videos of the movement the bushings endure to see if the front or rear deflect more. Assumed Ford was on to something with the gt350 bushing though

At this point I'll likely wait until I drop the subframe for the subframe lockout and spring install and address it then
 

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The Chairman

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I'd strongly advise against it. You're shifting the load path. Either do the whole thing and through bolt it, or leave it stock. The front bolts will shear eventually if you do the rears only.
I did the rears only on my ‘16 GT350 and have never had an issue. I also did the subframe pieces from Steeda:
https://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-subframe-alignment-and-support-kit.html

Slightly more NVH, but zero wheel hop and the rear is much more planted. Installing the fronts is a real pain. Maybe I’ll get to them sometime.
 

ModularKid21

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Although it would do anything for wheel hop, what about doing just the bolt upgrade kit like BMR’s with the sleeve inserts?
 

BmacIL

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Although it would do anything for wheel hop, what about doing just the bolt upgrade kit like BMR’s with the sleeve inserts?
I did just the sleeves in the rear bushings, no other hardware changes. It works well and not only removes slop & noise, but prevents the bolts from failing there. This is something that people should do immediately with their S550 to help prevent the bushings from getting ripped/torn prematurely.
 
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Grimreaper

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You buy the whole hardware kit? Or source your own sleeves?

Planning to measure the rear bushing ID to see about drilling out spacers I can get local
 

ModularKid21

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I did just the sleeves in the rear bushings, no other hardware changes. It works well and not only removes slop & noise, but prevents the bolts from failing there. This is something that people should do immediately with their S550 to help prevent the bushings from getting ripped/torn prematurely.
That’s what I was thinking but I hadn’t seen anyone do it so I wasn’t sure if there was a reason why. I have other mods to help with wheel hop so upgrading those bolts is all I think I really need
 

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BmacIL

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That’s what I was thinking but I hadn’t seen anyone do it so I wasn’t sure if there was a reason why. I have other mods to help with wheel hop so upgrading those bolts is all I think I really need
No need to touch the bolts. Just do the sleeves. This is why...
Screenshot_20191103-130827_Chrome.webp
 

BmacIL

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