Pics / tips for a-pillar tweeter install

[Elp_jc]

Thank you guys. That's what I thought. The whole B&O system is average IMO, so figure just changing the tweeters would be stupid. Either you upgrade the entire system, or leave it alone, in my view. With the cabin so noisy, and also the exhaust, which at least sounds phenomenal on my Bullitt, it's not worth messing with it. All I'll probably do is fill the sub with 8-oz of polyfill, which supposedly improves the base a little bit. If tweeters couldn't reproduce highs, then I'd probably replace them. But at least they can. And fortunately, I don't listen to the music too loudly, so the system doesn't sound bad, especially when streaming, since I was able to improve the sound with Spotify's EQ.

By the way, the best car sound system I've heard is the top-of-the-line Meridian (which is like 6 grand above the already excellent stock system on SVRs) on my brother's Land Rover Sport SVR. It sounds absolutely phenomenal. I've had great systems in my cars, with the Burmester probably the best so far... but that one blows it out of the water. Oh, and the second best I've heard is the top-of-the-line audio system on Teslas, even though they're proprietary (no brand name).

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[Tycoon]

The tweeter replacement was the easiest replacement (I haven’t replaced the 3.5s yet). I can see how it can be really frustrating. I think people might try to get the lowest clip on the wrong side of its mate on the dash. It does take patience. I went with the JL C1-075ct. I added rubber o-rings (1.5” ID and 1.75” OD and 1/8” high) behind them to make them perfectly flush and airtight. No glue or increasing the opening size. The stock mount did need to get dremeled out. The mounting kit for the JLs is literally perfect for this application. I noticed- unless mistaken- the polarity of the stock tweeters was opposite all other speakers in the car. I switched the polarity of the JLs to match the other speakers.

 

[NGOT8R]

The tweeter replacement was the easiest replacement (I haven’t replaced the 3.5s yet). I can see how it can be really frustrating. I think people might try to get the lowest clip on the wrong side of its mate on the dash. It does take patience. I went with the JL C1-075ct. I added rubber o-rings (1.5” ID and 1.75” OD and 1/8” high) behind them to make them perfectly flush and airtight. No glue or increasing the opening size. The stock mount did need to get dremeled out. The mounting kit for the JLs is literally perfect for this application. I noticed- unless mistaken- the polarity of the stock tweeters was opposite all other speakers in the car. I switched the polarity of the JLs to match the other speakers.

Nice work! They look like they belong right where they are.

 

[Evolvd]

I dremmeled out the holes and flush mount my JL Audio C7 tweeters.

 

[TonyT930]

Removed the factory midrange it sounded like garbage. Installed Hertz 2-way Mile pro MP165P.3 component set. The tweeters fit perfect after you cut the OEM tweeter out, open the hole a little larger so you have a tight fit and just press it in. I used a knife to cut the connector off the back of the OEM tweeter trimmed up the plastic and epoxies it to the back of the MP25.3 tweeter. If I were to do it again I would mount the connector so it points downward toward the dash, not upward and adjust the wire length. Had to re-install the A pillar then install the tweeter last. This worked great though and I can remove the tweeter with a trim tool without taking the A pillar off again. The A pillar is a complete bitch to re-install.

Wow!! That looks really clean. Great job. I flush mounted Focal TN43's there.

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