Performance Pack control arms

[BlownGP]

OK just to close this out.

The problem is the FRPP ball joints have a small lip that is supposed to seat on the bottom of the steering knuckle. On my car the lip got pulled into the knuckle so the ball joint was binding when torqued. I had the same problem when I bought a used knuckle.

I found a set of arms with a wide lip on the ball joint, A-Premium I think is the brand, anyway that fixed my problem.

I've see the A-premium ones on ebay.

They are the ones that look to make the aluminum ones.

https://a-premium.com/product/ford-...arward-control-arm-with-ball-joint-nH7u5vdEAc

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[WD Pro]

I've see the A-premium ones on ebay.

They are the ones that look to make the aluminum ones.

https://a-premium.com/product/ford-...arward-control-arm-with-ball-joint-nH7u5vdEAc

I still don’t think they are ally …

From the other thread :

I don't think the last link is ally (not chunky enough / same size as the steel version), I think it's just plated rather than painted ?

WD

WD

 

[K4fxd]

They are not aluminum. A magnet sticks to them. Except for the plating and the ball joint they look identical to the FRPP arm. They weigh 4 lbs same as the stock arms. The ball joints have a 1/4 inch lip, no way these are pulling through the ball joint taper. I hope they last.

 

[txgt]

If you want sphericals in the front arms you gotta do it yourself. I just put J&M in mine the other day. I recommend sourcing the pressing pieces and shop press before purchasing because these are large bearings.

Couple of questions for you:

1. How tough was that job?
2. If one of your ball joints went bad, do you think you could press out the bearings and re-use them on a new control arm?

I ask because I have a bad ball joint on the driver side and apparently you can’t just replace the ball joint so you have to replace the whole arm. I track my car and driving over curbing is a way of life which definitely shortens the lifespan of those ball joints.

I‘d love to put in the J&M or BMR but worry about dealing with bad ball joints in the future…

 

[K4fxd]

You can press them out and put in a new arm. And yes they make a world of difference. I will never use a bushing in the front arm ever again.

 

[GTP]

Everything is easier the second time, of course.

I had a friend with a strong press, but not a great set of press plates. Getting support for the large round part of the arm was tricky with just 4 little corners of the press plates contacting.

These bearings are too large to find a socket to fit as a receiver. If I had to do it again, I'd go to Metals Supermarket and get two short sections of steel tubing - one diameter for pressing, and another diameter for receiving.

Other than that, they press in and out pretty easy. Easier than pressing out the OEM bushings.

But yeah, your idea of pressing them out and then into a new set of arms is the way to go.

 

[BlownGP]

I still don’t think they are ally …

From the other thread :



WD

Yeah yeah, I remember..

But since a magnetic sticks to them they are defiantly not aluminum

 

[BlownGP]

Everything is easier the second time, of course.

I had a friend with a strong press, but not a great set of press plates. Getting support for the large round part of the arm was tricky with just 4 little corners of the press plates contacting.

These bearings are too large to find a socket to fit as a receiver. If I had to do it again, I'd go to Metals Supermarket and get two short sections of steel tubing - one diameter for pressing, and another diameter for receiving.

Other than that, they press in and out pretty easy. Easier than pressing out the OEM bushings.

But yeah, your idea of pressing them out and then into a new set of arms is the way to go.

That's what I was wondering. There is not much metal to press around the bushing to give resistance when pushing out the bushing.

But lucky for me I work in a machine shop so I have plenty of metal to experiment with. lol

 

[txgt]

When I installed the FP Track Handling Pack I used this Maddox Ball Joint Service Kit to press out the rubber toe link bushing and press in the spherical bearing.

Is something like that going to work for the front control arm, or am I going to need a proper shop press?

 

[GTP]

You will still need to source pressing and receiving collars to use with a ball joint press.

I think it may be harder to press out the nearly 3" steel bushing than it will be to press in the aluminum bearing.

You need properly sized collars whether for hydraulic or ball joint press so it's worth a try.

I used a ball joint press to press out wheel studs, but the control arm bushing will be held much tighter IMO.

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