Per Ford (officially) the 2011-2019 F150/Mustang 5.0 “Typewriter Tick” is a normal characteristic

[Condor1970]

Production tolerances stack up. would be why some might and some don't.
A ticking from a hyd follower is from lack of oil pressure if it goes away off idle, and higher.
It is odd that it happens after the 1st oil change. Has anyone had the oil that the vehicles ship with tested by a lab. Maybe ford installs thicker oil on the 1st fill, for break in?
It be nice to have a oil lab look into the oil in a new v8 .
I am going with the oil shipped in the vehicle is thicker weight, than what ford is listing to use.
Can't have a new vehicles engine ticking away when trying to sell it .

I wouldn't doubt if they put a little graphite lube in the original fill, which won't really show up on an oil analysis. However, I noticed mine around 800 miles, before my first oil change. It's quite possible it was there all along, I just never took note of it.

That said, I went back to my dealer, and I have started numerous brand new 5.0's on the lot, and most of them ticked from the get-go.

My personal opinion is that it really is oil pressure related at idle. Mine comes in like clockwork below around 28psi. I really think it's either the #3 cyl Lash Adjuster, or maybe even the chain tensioner on the right side causing the timing chain to tap the plastic guide at idle.

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[GT Pony]

Production tolerances stack up. would be why some might and some don't.
A ticking from a hyd follower is from lack of oil pressure if it goes away off idle, and higher.
It is odd that it happens after the 1st oil change. Has anyone had the oil that the vehicles ship with tested by a lab. Maybe ford installs thicker oil on the 1st fill, for break in?
It be nice to have a oil lab look into the oil in a new v8 .
I am going with the oil shipped in the vehicle is thicker weight, than what ford is listing to use. Can't have a new vehicles engine ticking away when trying to sell it .

These BBQ tick discussions have been going on since 2011 when the Coyote came out ... so there is a lot of history involved with the whole subject matter. There can be lots of engine components effected by a change in oil pressure, flow, friction level and engine RPM that can cause noises to appear.

IMO, the tick coming and going is connected to the oil lubricity/friction level more than anything. That's why the tick can show up with an oil change, and go away with an additive like Ceratec or the old Motorcraft XL-17 additive (another friction modifier additive). Parts tolerance stack-up is certainly possible, and one area I've always homed in on is the rod big-end side clearance possibly being the source. It's possible the rods shift side-to-side on the crank journal at idle and low RPM dependent on the friction level of the oil. Or if an additive provides more "cushion" between parts, it's possible that is why the tick disappears with Ceratec.

If the BBQ tick was as simple as a lazy hydraulic follower, Ford would have been all over that back in 2011 when the Coyote BBQ tick was born. They wouldn't have replaced engines under warranty over lazy HLAs. If it was lazy HLAs, they would have just replaced HLAs.

Some guys have had the factory oil fill tested, and IIRC the viscosity was correct for the 5W-20 specified.

 

[GT Pony]

What happens on a 2018+ with the variable flow volume oil pump when the electrical connector controlling the pump is disconnected? Does the pump fail safe to put out maximum oil volume at all RPM if the control signal is lost?

 

[CJJon]

What happens on a 2018+ with the variable flow volume oil pump when the electrical connector controlling the pump is disconnected? Does the pump fail safe to put out maximum oil volume at all RPM if the control signal is lost?

The oil pump isn't electrically driven or valved. Not sure what you are getting at. Unless I am missing something (or in the GT 500 forum again).

 

[Rapid Red]

What happens on a 2018+ with the variable flow volume oil pump when the electrical connector controlling the pump is disconnected? Does the pump fail safe to put out maximum oil volume at all RPM if the control signal is lost?

Let's hope so, no oil pressure and limp mode, does not sound like that would cut it .

 

[GT Pony]

Let's hope so, no oil pressure and limp mode, does not sound like that would cut it .

I highly doubt if the electrical control signal to the oil pump is lost that there is no oil pressure. Any engineer that designed it like that should be fired and work at McDonolds instead.

If the control logic is designed correctly, the pump should put out full volume all the time (like an old fashioned oil pump) if the control signal is lost.

 

[GT Pony]

The oil pump isn't electrically driven or valved. Not sure what you are getting at. Unless I am missing something (or in the GT 500 forum again).

Then how is the variable flow oil pump controlled in the 3rd Gen Coyote? Isn't there an electrical wire going to the oil pump on the 3rd Gen Coyote? That was my understanding.

 

[CJJon]

Then how is the variable flow oil pump controlled in the 3rd Gen Coyote?

I dunno, that is why I am asking. Where are the wires? Where is the controller and valves? The OPG's run off the crank and do not spin independent of the crank.

I looked in the shop manual and everything.

 

[GT Pony]

I dunno, that is why I am asking. Where are the wires? Where is the controller and valves? The OPG's run off the crank and do not spin independent of the crank.

I looked in the shop manual and everything.

OK, I just found this tech info from Ford Performance.
https://performanceparts.ford.com/download/PDFS/Coyote Technical Reference2.pdf

Looks like it's an electrically controlled valve near the oil filter mount that must bypass some oil flow (which will change the oil pressure) when the computer opens the valve. The valve is not on the oil pump.

 

[GT Pony]

I looked in the shop manual and everything.

Does the shop manual for the 3rd Gen Coyote describe how the pressure control system works, and what happens if the computer signal is lost - what's the default operation if the electrical connector became unplugged (no electrical signal)?

 

[CJJon]

Does the shop manual for the 3rd Gen Coyote describe how the pressure control system works, and what happens if the computer signal is lost - what's the default operation if the electrical connector became unplugged (no electrical signal)?

I'll let you know.

 

[CJJon]

I can't find any reference to variable oil pressure. Here is what the shop manual says.

Lubrication System
The engine lubrication system is of the force-feed type in which oil is supplied under full pressure to
the:
l crankshaft main bearings.
l crankshaft thrust main bearing.
l connecting rod bearings.
l oil galleries.
All other parts are lubricated by splash of the oil.
The lubrication system of the 5.0L (4V) engine is designed to provide optimum oil flow to critical
components of the engine through its entire operating range. The heart of the system is a positive
displacement internal gear oil pump using top seal rotors.
The heart of the system is a positive displacement internal gear oil pump.
Generically, this design is known as a gerotor pump, which operates as follows:
l The oil pump is mounted on the front face of the cylinder block.
l The inner rotor is piloted on the crankshaft post and is driven through flats on the crankshaft.
l System pressure is limited by an integral, internally-vented relief valve which directs the
bypassed oil back to the inlet side of the oil pump.
l Oil pump displacement has been selected to provide adequate volume to make sure of correct
oil pressure both at hot idle and maximum speed.
l The relief valve calibration protects the system from excessive pressure during high viscosity
conditions.
l The relief valve is designed to provide adequate connecting rod bearing lubrication under hightemperature
and high-speed conditions.

Yellow is high pressure oil and the blue is low pressure return.

 

[GT Pony]

Red arrow looks like the same pressure control valve shown in the Ford Performance diagram I posted.

So what happens to the idle oil pressure if that pressure control valve is unplugged?

 

[Condor1970]

Red arrow looks like the same pressure control valve shown in the Ford Performance diagram I posted.

So what happens to the idle oil pressure if that pressure control valve is unplugged?

If unplugged, I would think it would end up being similar to what I see on my old Suburban 5.7. It starts up cold at around 75psi, and drops slowly until hot. When at hot idle, it runs around 25-30psi.
My guess is the 5.0L would instead be about 75psi on startup, but drop to around 30psi hot.

I say this because with the bypass open on startup, it is around 40-45psi, but drops almost 30psi to 13psi at idle.

 

[Vlad Soare]

Could the oil pressure be too high on cold starts without that valve?
Even though the valve was put there just for fuel economy and nothing else, that doesn't mean that the engine hasn't been adapted to work efficiently with it (i.e. to work best with lower oil pressures) - in which case increasing the pressure might be detrimental. Hot idle would certainly be fine, but what about 3000 rpm with a cold engine at 20 °F?

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