Nola504boy
Well-Known Member
I love loud BOV’s. I’m ready to sell my Race bov for a Tial or ProCharger Big Ted bov.
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Thanks Chris,To answer your question about the vortech race bov, it is super loud....but that's why I got it. I think the noise sounds cool and I'm not planning on going over mid 600s with the car so a larger bov like the bv57 wasn't a necessity for me, plus the 57 is much quieter like kcc mentioned which wasn't what I was looking for. As far as the 8 rib goes with the 2200sl, it's a debate for the ages. Some have slip issues and others don't. I'm running the 3.33 pulley with my wastegate and a green belt and have no slip issues whatsoever. And before everyone freaks out and says I'm overspinning the blower, I shift at 7000 rpm which is still below this blowers rpm max. I'll include an excel file I made to calculate blower speed if anyone's interested. The calculators I found online had the incorrect step up ratio for the 2200sl so I made my own. Just enter your values in the boxes for balancer diameter, pulley size, and blower step up ratio and the file will populate on it's own.
As for the tick/rattle that occured after your exhaust install, if it's an engine tick then that's one thing. However if it's more of a rattle/buzz then you're probably having some contact between exhaust and another component...likely body. I would datalog and look at your knock values. Then get under the car and look for any place the exhaust might be making contact. Remember that under load the engine twists slightly and the exhaust components on the drivers side will move upward towards body, the passenger side moves down. Once everything is corrected and looks good, see if the noise is still there. If no longer present, data log again and if your knock values are lower than before you'll know it was that for sure.
Anyone feel free to chime in if I'm wrong about anything, everyone's here to help eachother and learn.
edit: forgot, as for your question about different blower sizes, that's a little over my head. I just went with the 2200sl because both beef and lund recommended it for my goals.
There’s not too much trimming. I think it took me about 30 minutes or so to get it just right. I’ve got the stock air box that I trimmed and used prior to switching to the jlt in my parts room. I’ll snag a pic of it when I get a chance and put it on here so you can see.As far as airbox options go, I've seen people with the stock air box or the JLT style one with the tube. I've also seen people run a honeycomb on the blower itself or trim the fan shroud slightly and run a filter off of that.
Aside from the obvious power differences of the last two options, how much trimming of the stock airbox do you have to do? I saw someone with a Steeda setup and Vortech and that looked pretty interesting for a closed box setup. Do the IAT's of a more open version like the JLT really affect the performance versus a closed box with lower IAT's?
I currently have a JLT and of course I've seen some IAT's reach around 137 degrees on a hot day, but not much higher than that from idling. It recovers extremely fast. Wondering if it's similar to that with the JLT filter on the tube?
That absolutely did, thanks! Seems like the cone style filter is the way to go with this setup.There’s not too much trimming. I think it took me about 30 minutes or so to get it just right. I’ve got the stock air box that I trimmed and used prior to switching to the jlt in my parts room. I’ll snag a pic of it when I get a chance and put it on here so you can see.
I did pick up 1 lb of boost when I switched from stock air box to jlt as measured by a mechanical gauge, so it’s an accurate reading in my opinion. It was a noticeable increase in power that I could feel before I did any data logging. You wouldn’t think 1 psi would make that big of a difference but it does. Especially seemed to pull harder in the 4000-6000 range. Some people say they get closer to 2 psi increase but I only saw 1.
As far as temp difference, I could go back and look at some logs but I feel like I would have remembered/noticed if it was significant. The shield that comes with the jlt does a pretty good job of blocking it off from the engine bay. I think that the increase in boost makes any minimal temp increase a non issue as far as performance goes, especially by the time you get through the intercooler. Hope that helped answer you questions, I’ll get that pic for you when I can.
Yep. Strange thing about it is that it's been making this noise for quite a long time and I really did think it was a header flange leak and because the hoist wasn't in operation I was leaving it till I got the hoist up again. And there seems to be no lack of performance or anything tell tales in the oil. I do regular trips to 7k so I would've thought it would've blown up by now if it was a serious engine problem.Man that sucks! That’s great you still have some warranty left. Let us know what they say. Lol and I agree having no lift sucks. I’ve done my entire build on jackstands, definitely had to get creative a few times.
That's not bad at all for the trimming.
I bought a JLT for mine but if I did it again I would just run the stock airbox on the street and open blower at track.That's not bad at all for the trimming.
Yeah, I was considering going the drop-in filter method with the stock airbox along with the Velossatech setup for street driving. I would probably do exactly what you said if I went on COTA for some laps with an open blower. With the 18 manifold I have, I would rev it out to about 7500-7600 rpm which shouldn't overspin on a 3.6 pulley with the V7-JT so I think that would be fine. I just don't want the filter to be a limitation on boost.I bought a JLT for mine but if I did it again I would just run the stock airbox on the street and open blower at track.
It will not make too much difference on boost. I ran mine back to back at the track and it is no more than 1-2 tenths in the 1/4 or less. If you are on the road course I would just leave the filter in.Yeah, I was considering going the drop-in filter method with the stock airbox along with the Velossatech setup for street driving. I would probably do exactly what you said if I went on COTA for some laps with an open blower. With the 18 manifold I have, I would rev it out to about 7500-7600 rpm which shouldn't overspin on a 3.6 pulley with the V7-JT so I think that would be fine. I just don't want the filter to be a limitation on boost.
you don't have to tap the pan is the biggest pro to the self lubricated, that is what i hear from customers, but..in reality, it's a 5 minute job,Guess I have all sorts of questions, but this seems to be the best thread to do it. Self lubricated versus oil fed... Are there pros and cons to each of the setups? One more reliable than the other?