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Passenger Side rear cradle not aligned after dropping!

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Hey guys! I’m doing a coilovers install right now, I got the drivers side done and all the bolts tightened up, i made sure to only loosen one side of the rear subframe.
Now i’m putting the passenger side back together and the bolt holes for the subframe bolts aren’t lined up. I’m not sure what it could be. I had the subframe dropped all day yesterday but it was supported with my jack.

Is there any mistake i could’ve made? What can I do to get the bolts lined up?

8A232A13-B686-4D4B-8EA2-A21CAC91A70B.jpeg
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Loosen up the drivers side, then realign. There is more play than you think in the subframe mounts. You obviously didn't use the Steeda Alignment bushings. The evidently help keep it straight. Wish I knew about them when I did my rear suspension.
 

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I don't know if there is something additional pushing the subframe out in this case but make sure to line those teeth up with the witness marks so the alignment wont be to far off. That happened to me when i did my subframe bushings and all i had to do is use every brain cell jack stand and prybar i had to align that bitch back by my self. it was really stubborn. I thank god i wasent installing alignment dowels that day or i would of needed help.
 
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Loosen up the drivers side, then realign. There is more play than you think in the subframe mounts. You obviously didn't use the Steeda Alignment bushings. The evidently help keep it straight. Wish I knew about them when I did my rear suspension.
Ah I see,
Loosen up the drivers side, then realign. There is more play than you think in the subframe mounts. You obviously didn't use the Steeda Alignment bushings. The evidently help keep it straight. Wish I knew about them when I did my rear suspension.
Ah I see, I guess I should have taken that into account , i would’ve that it was all be fine, should I take the drivers side out all the way? or just loosen and re adjust.
 
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I don't know if there is something additional pushing the subframe out in this case but make sure to line those teeth up with the witness marks so the alignment wont be to far off. That happened to me when i did my subframe bushings and all i had to do is use every brain cell jack stand and prybar i had to align that bitch back by my self. it was really stubborn. I thank god i wasent installing alignment dowels that day or i would of needed help.
Time to go buy another jack..
 

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Ah I see,

Ah I see, I guess I should have taken that into account , i would’ve that it was all be fine, should I take the drivers side out all the way? or just loosen and re adjust.
Depends. Keep it as level as possible and loosen drivers side enough to move around to get both rears in place, then the fronts. Once all are in tighten each slowly and try to match up the original purchase marks from the teeth.
 
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Depends. Keep it as level as possible and loosen drivers side enough to move around to get both rears in place, then the fronts. Once all are in tighten each slowly and try to match up the original purchase marks from the teeth.
Alright, I took a little break and went back to look, and the front subframe bolt for my drivers side is way off, I completely forgot to align the teeth marks. Thanks for your help! I'll probably go buy another jack to help me out with this.
 

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Loosen the other bolts and you’ll have a ton of play to work with. To take the mystery out of it you can get the alignment dowels that insert through the bushings to center the bolts.
 

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Personally I wouldn’t just align to the original marks, look how far some can be out direct from the factory (not my photo) :

1684008683537.webp


WD :like:
 
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Loosen the other bolts and you’ll have a ton of play to work with. To take the mystery out of it you can get the alignment dowels that insert through the bushings to center the bolts.
Damn, for some reason it wont align! Probably will call a mobile mechanic to help at this point, I lowered the drivers side, and the rear bolt stay in alignment, but no matter what the front bolt doesnt want to move. I see talk about pry bars, but I can't imagine a position to put one in to where I can shift the subframe a little bit to get them lined up. Do you have any links/videos/advice on how to move the subframe around?
 

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Damn, for some reason it wont align! Probably will call a mobile mechanic to help at this point, I lowered the drivers side, and the rear bolt stay in alignment, but no matter what the front bolt doesnt want to move. I see talk about pry bars, but I can't imagine a position to put one in to where I can shift the subframe a little bit to get them lined up. Do you have any links/videos/advice on how to move the subframe around?
Rear subframe locations have a bit of a flange with a hole. A few inch above that hole (in the chassis leg) there is another hole - I believe a pry bar through both holes can be used to move the subframe.

Note : As a rough guide, those alignment holes should be pretty much aligned, when the subframe is pretty much aligned :like:

WD :like:
 

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There are ears on the rear subframe that have holes in them that can be used to line up with matching holes in the body frame. I used a 1/2 ratchet extension centered and square in the lower hole to use as an indicator for how much I needed to move the subframe into alignment. Another thing to do if you are not using the Steeda alignment dowels, is adjust all four bolts so that the subframe is basically floating below the main frame about 1/4 inch. Let the subframe rest on the bolt washers. You can use the washers on the bolt heads as alignment indicators. When the washer is concentric with the metal cylinders of the subframe bushings, you'll be good. Then tighten each bolt a little at a time to draw the subframe tight.
 

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Damn, for some reason it wont align! Probably will call a mobile mechanic to help at this point, I lowered the drivers side, and the rear bolt stay in alignment, but no matter what the front bolt doesnt want to move. I see talk about pry bars, but I can't imagine a position to put one in to where I can shift the subframe a little bit to get them lined up. Do you have any links/videos/advice on how to move the subframe around?
I don’t. Try seeing if there is anything causing tension on the subframe. Unbolting the shocks might help you have some wiggle room.
 
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Rear subframe locations have a bit of a flange with a hole. A few inch above that hole (in the chassis leg) there is another hole - I believe a pry bar through both holes can be used to move the subframe.

Note : As a rough guide, those alignment holes should be pretty much aligned, when the subframe is pretty much aligned :like:

WD :like:
Oh my god that makes sense! This has stressed me out much more than it should have, the fronts were so much easier:(. So loosen bolts -> stick something inbetween the bushing hole, and the chassis hole and pry it so that its aligned, tighten them and do the same with the other side?
 
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I don’t. Try seeing if there is anything causing tension on the subframe. Unbolting the shocks might help you have some wiggle room.
Didn't think about unbolting the shocks, will do that tomorrow morning to alongside all the other advice, thank you so much!
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