Partial cradle alignment sleeves

[DougS550]

I can’t answer that, maybe someone else can or contact Kelly. I don’t remember if he mentions that in his video.

If I ever need to lower my craddle agai, I will without hesitation install these studs. For me, the savings on not damaging the cradle bolt nuts is a must.

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[JOKER M1]

One reason only. I wanted to play, feel the power from a dig, any RPM, any speed. I also feel like for me, a PD would be easier, more predictable to control/handle and not get blind sided by the Centri/Turbo 5000> Hp hit. And I 'DID NOT' want to play around above 100mph just to feel the FI rush. But, that is just my personal wants.

I can see that, maybe I’ll see you around this year. We never hooked up last year but then I’m never out much.

 

[DougS550]

I can see that, maybe I’ll see you around this year. We never hooked up last year but then I’m never out much.

Sure thing. Now that my car is fun to drive (for me), I will try my best to drive more. Take care

 

[80FoxCoupe]

One reason only. I wanted to play, feel the power from a dig, any RPM, any speed. I also feel like for me, a PD would be easier, more predictable to control/handle and not get blind sided by the Centri/Turbo 5000> Hp hit. And I 'DID NOT' want to play around above 100mph just to feel the FI rush. But, that is just my personal wants.

Whoa, I had no idea.

 

[GTP]

Question. With the Kelltrac Studs in, and the cradle lowered all the way down as it can go and still be supported by the studs, , does this give you enough room/access to replace the front and rear Diff bushings? I like this kelltrac kit.

The answer is Yes. The fronts are still tricky. Assemble the insert and washer onto the bolt. Then pivot it up into place and start the thread by hand. Barely fits in there. Install my gap-filler sleeves at the rear bolts while you're in there.

I made my own super long studs from allthread. You can borrow or buy my set if you want. It is not high-grade, so it is only for temporary use, and then you go back to the blue bolts. This setup also makes it easier to change rear springs, since you can lower the cradle that extra little bit needed.

 

[DougS550]

The answer is Yes. The fronts are still tricky. Assemble the insert and washer onto the bolt. Then pivot it up into place and start the thread by hand. Barely fits in there. Install my gap-filler sleeves at the rear bolts while you're in there.

I made my own super long studs from allthread. You can borrow or buy my set if you want. It is not high-grade, so it is only for temporary use, and then you go back to the blue bolts. This setup also makes it easier to change rear springs, since you can lower the cradle that extra little bit needed.

Would this put undue stress on my CF driveshaft due to lowering? Or would you recommend disconnecting the rear joint of the DS prior to lowering ?

 

[GTP]

Would this put undue stress on my CF driveshaft due to lowering? Or would you recommend disconnecting the rear joint of the DS prior to lowering ?

I did not disconnect my OEM driveshaft. Maybe you could loosen the DS bolts until they still have full thread in the flange.

I had to disconnect and lower my exhaust, especially the electrical connectors for active exhaust. I also disconnected the shocks at the body. Maybe the ride height sensors. Maybe the swaybar. I did a write-up on the forum with photos.

 

[DougS550]

I did not disconnect my OEM driveshaft. Maybe you could loosen the DS bolts until they still have full thread in the flange.

I had to disconnect and lower my exhaust, especially the electrical connectors for active exhaust. I also disconnected the shocks at the body. Maybe the ride height sensors. Maybe the sway bar. I did a write-up on the forum with photos.

Nice. Thank you for the info and help. Most appreciated.

 

[Robottrainer]

Question. With the Kelltrac Studs in, and the cradle lowered all the way down as it can go and still be supported by the studs, , does this give you enough room/access to replace the front and rear Diff bushings? I like this kelltrac kit.

Nope. I just went through this. There is no way. It's no big deal to drop it right out. Makes for a 5 minute job. The biggest thing to watch is lowering it. It awkward and heavy. I used a trans jack and blocks of wood. Even then it was tense. Get the car up about 2 feet in the air.

 

[Robottrainer]

So hear me out, most all of us know how frustrating it is/can be getting the cradle aligned (reinstalling the bolts) using the BMR or STEEDA alignment sleeves be it in their lock-out or BMR’s lockout. How critical do you think it is to have all 4 sleeves installed, how about just the 2 rear ones ? I ask this as an honest question. I have the BMR CB005 but I didn’t install the sleeves mostly due to how much trouble I had with my previous mustang. Back to my point of asking the question, KELLTRAC‘s system only uses any alignment type system in the rear only so why couldn’t I use the 2 rear BMR or STEEDA alignment sleeves to align the cradle and save the headache. Would that not be similar to what KELLTRAC is doing ? I assume his method is acceptable. I’m also aware there is more going on with KELLTRAC’s system but I’m focusing on the alignment aspect.

@BMR Suspension @BMR Tech
@Steeda Tech JohnC

I have the Kelltrac studs. I got 3 out of the 4 locators into the cradle. 2 in the rear and one in the front passenger side. The drivers side front is off way too much. This tells me their weld jig isn't very good if the leg moves that much. It's probably why the holes are so big. The just adjust it out with the toe links.

 

[JOKER M1]

I have the Kelltrac studs. I got 3 out of the 4 locators into the cradle. 2 in the rear and one in the front passenger side. The drivers side front is off way too much. This tells me their weld jig isn't very good if the leg moves that much. It's probably why the holes are so big. The just adjust it out with the toe links.

Good to know, I hate not having any sleeves. I’m not gonna kill myself or take any chances doing any damage so If I only get 3 out of 4 so be it.

 

[DougS550]

Nope. I just went through this. There is no way. It's no big deal to drop it right out. Makes for a 5 minute job. The biggest thing to watch is lowering it. It awkward and heavy. I used a trans jack and blocks of wood. Even then it was tense. Get the car up about 2 feet in the air.

Thank you for your help. I am just preparing just in case I have Diff bushings issues when I put on E85 at 800-850whp. Thank you

 

[Robottrainer]

Thank you for your help. I am just preparing just in case I have Diff bushings issues when I put on E85 at 800-850whp. Thank you

The other option is to pull all of the cradle bolts and pull the cradle rearward to get space with the gas tank.

 

[moby4dick]

Good to know, I hate not having any sleeves. I’m not gonna kill myself or take any chances doing any damage so If I only get 3 out of 4 so be it.

At one point I was struggling with getting the sleeves in place, so I called BMR and discussed my situation. The gentleman told me it wasn’t the end of the world if I only got 3 in. He said it’s a Ford, not a high end German car, tolerances aren’t in the same league.

Fortunately I got back to it and got all 4 in place.

 

[WildHorse]

I used STEEDA's kit. It was stupid easy to install. Jack under the diff, loosen all the cradle bolts, lower a bit, do one at a time, once done, reverse procedure.

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