Paint Bubbling - Updated

[72&18]

Update 4.14.23

Took the car in this morning. In less than 2 hours had a call from the body shop manager telling me he had ordered my new fender. Service Manager took pictures and submitted to Ford and it was approved for an entire new fender very quickly. Now we play the waiting game on parts. Thanks for all your input.



Hello,

This is my driver front fender where it meets the bumper. I have until 4/20/23 for the three year bumper to bumper warranty to expire. However, I see corrosion perforation has a five year warranty. I also have an ESP plan after that. Garaged its entire life. What do you guys think? I have no real experience with aluminum. Does not look good to me.

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[Nitrousfedlx]

Definitely looks like some sort of corrosion going on under the paint. Also most definitely utilize ur warranty and get it handled!

 

[Cobra Jet]

Poor prep at the factory and that will only get much worse as time goes by for sure.

Don't sit on it or wait to make any appointments. Make an appointment ASAP and have the Dealer (or you) take very hi-res pics to submit to Ford for the Warranty claim.

Ford Paint and Corrosion Warranty from 2016 forward for aluminum panels requires no perforation of the metal. The warranty also requires replacement of aluminum panels NOT repair. Go to your Owner's Manual to the Paint and Corrosion Warranty section and review it.

 

[pilotgore]

Hello,

This is my driver front fender where it meets the bumper. I have until 4/20/23 for the three year bumper to bumper warranty to expire. However, I see corrosion perforation has a five year warranty. I also have an ESP plan after that. Garaged its entire life. What do you guys think? I have no real experience with aluminum. Does not look good to me.

I agree with everyone else. The paint/corrosion warranty is 5 year, but I wouldn’t wait any longer than you have to.

I’ve had hoods replaced on two of my vehicles under warranty for this very same reason and the process was super easy. Make an appointment at the dealer to talk to a service advisor. They’ll snap some pictures and send it off to ford for approval while you take the car and drive home. My approval took 48 hrs. After that they’ll schedule a time for you to drop off the car for 1-3 days or so to get the new hood installed. Easy.

 

[Inthehighdesert]

The others above have steered you right. Most likely what’s happened is the substrate didn’t bond correctly. Its not always because of poor prep. A lot of times its in the application. Me, 25 years in p&b.

 

[noac]

The fender has galvanic corrosion. Needs a new fender.

 

[IPOGT]

The others above have steered you right. Most likely what’s happened is the substrate didn’t bond correctly. Its not always because of poor prep. A lot of times its in the application. Me, 25 years in p&b.

I used to get really upset over paint touch ups where just a small area needs a repair and they have to re clear the whole panel. With these new paints, procedures and good skills they absolutely can make undetectable repairs. Paint matches, metallic lays properly to the body and all. I’d be more concerned about leaving it there rather than the quality of repair. Ops car color is

 

[Inthehighdesert]

What most don’t know is the oem applied protection is subpar compared to what is applied in a proper application by a shop in a repair. If the panel is being prepped correctly the oem galvanic is almost nil after.

The fender has galvanic corrosion. Needs a new fender.

 

[IPOGT]

What most don’t know is the oem applied protection is subpar compared to what is applied in a proper application by a shop in a repair. If the panel is being prepped correctly the oem galvanic is almost nil after.

Don’t we all wish we knew how to find P&B people like yourself. Seems there are many crappy shops and some folks get unlucky. I look for factory certified and ICAR Gold if possible. Usually pretty good indicators and my choices haven’t let me down.

 

[Inthehighdesert]

It’s difficult regardless of the market your in. About the only way to find the good ones is from a referral. What’s sad is as time goes on the skilled trades guys are becoming fewer and more scarce. In the early 2000’s a good tech for me was six figures, much higher today obviously. My shop was Icar Gold and at one point I was an Icar instructor. I sold my shop(basically a client list) off a long time ago. It became to much of a baby sitting job for me and truly sucked the enjoyment out of a very cool trade. There’s not a-lot of jobs you get to take an absolute turd or a mess of twisted metal and get to turn in to something you can be truly proud of. The satisfaction never got old. Jees, I sound like an old coger. Lol

Don’t we all wish we knew how to find P&B people like yourself. Seems there are many crappy shops and some folks get unlucky. I look for factory certified and ICAR Gold if possible. Usually pretty good indicators and my choices haven’t let me down.

 

[Zombo]

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/is-your-350-rotting-before-your-very-eyes-like-mine.109819/

 

[72&18]

bump

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