P0300 P0304

[blakedanatural]

Hello All,
I believe the Ford Gods are telling me to buy a new s550. As some of you may know I had a crankshaft position sensor issue that has been replaced. I have a new battery and a new starter but she wont turn over. A very strong starting sound just wont turn over. I pull the P0300 and P0304 codes. My car has 131k miles with the original ignition coils. I changed the ignition coil #4 with a duralast from auto zone and she still wont turn over. I still have the codes. I did not check plug #4 but I am in a few minutes. Any other suggestions or direct me to the right forum. I want to replace all the plugs and get a motorcraft ignition coil.

Thank you in advance,
Blake

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[SheepDog]

Hello All,
I believe the Ford Gods are telling me to buy a new s550. As some of you may know I had a crankshaft position sensor issue that has been replaced. I have a new battery and a new starter but she wont turn over. A very strong starting sound just wont turn over. I pull the P0300 and P0304 codes. My car has 131k miles with the original ignition coils. I changed the ignition coil #4 with a duralast from auto zone and she still wont turn over. I still have the codes. I did not check plug #4 but I am in a few minutes. Any other suggestions or direct me to the right forum. I want to replace all the plugs and get a motorcraft ignition coil.

Thank you in advance,
Blake

"Won't turn over" means that the engine does not rotate, either because the starter is seized/ the battery cannot deliver the amperage needed to the starter to crank the engine, or the engine itself is seized.

So, are you saying that these conditions exist, or are you trying to say that the engine cranks, but it does not start?

 

[blakedanatural]

Yes the engine cranks but wont start. Here is what is killing me. My car started Sunday morning and I drove for about 3 miles to the market. When I left the market it shut off suddenly and it started up with no problem. Drove a few minutes and it happened again. Eventually it happen in total of 4 times before I was able to park at home. I put a scan tool on the port and got 2 dtc p0300 and p0304. I looked them up and got misfires and cylinder #4. Purchased a ignition coil from Autozone ( duralast) and she still wont start. I di not check the plug in #4 till tomorrow. I hope I dont have to have it towed to the dealership.
Thank you for responding
blake

 

[SheepDog]

Yes the engine cranks but wont start. Here is what is killing me. My car started Sunday morning and I drove for about 3 miles to the market. When I left the market it shut off suddenly and it started up with no problem. Drove a few minutes and it happened again. Eventually it happen in total of 4 times before I was able to park at home. I put a scan tool on the port and got 2 dtc p0300 and p0304. I looked them up and got misfires and cylinder #4. Purchased a ignition coil from Autozone ( duralast) and she still wont start. I di not check the plug in #4 till tomorrow. I hope I dont have to have it towed to the dealership.
Thank you for responding
blake

Misfires aren't what is causing a no start condition. The engine can run (although run rough) with several cylinders misfiring. I would guess that you either have something going on with the crank position sensor, or maybe fuel delivery issue.

What year and spec is your car?
What modifications are on the car?

 

[blakedanatural]

Misfires aren't what is causing a no start condition. The engine can run (although run rough) with several cylinders misfiring. I would guess that you either have something going on with the crank position sensor, or maybe fuel delivery issue.

What year and spec is your car?
What modifications are on the car?

My car is a 2015 Mustang Gt Premium with 131k miles. I have a mrt h pipe with a magna flow axle back exhaust. I have the Ford Performance gt350 tune with the larger throttle body and cold air intake. I have the factory manifold. Its so confusing because it was running after the crankshaft position sensor was installed. I did not do any relearn procedure. I thought after driving it would relearn itself.

 

[blakedanatural]

My car is a 2015 Mustang Gt Premium with 131k miles. I have a mrt h pipe with a magna flow axle back exhaust. I have the Ford Performance gt350 tune with the larger throttle body and cold air intake. I have the factory manifold. Its so confusing because it was running after the crankshaft position sensor was installed. I did not do any relearn procedure. I thought after driving it would relearn itself.

It sounds like maybe the fuel delivery could be the culprit too. The crank is strong but it wont start.

 

[NGOT8R]

The hard start issue sounds like a fuel delivery issue. I had that happen several months ago and I had to have the car towed home. Some troubleshooting revealed that it was a bad fuel pump.

 

[Cobra Jet]

Was the crank sensor replaced with a Ford unit or some off the wall back alley auto parts store unit?

You have to do a relearn procedure… if you didn’t, that’s going to cause issues - but it won’t cause a non-start.

Pull the crank sensor, ohm spec it to make sure it’s within factory specs…. If it’s beyond +/- the factory spec by a large margin it’s a junk sensor. Also check to make sure the pins in the connector to the crank sensor have not been damaged and also make sure the harness has not been damaged.

Check the fuel pump as mentioned too. Do you hear it prime when you push the button initially? You should hear a very distinct prime.

Have you checked for any blown fuses in the passenger side kick panel OR any of them larger fuses in the fuse box under the hood?

Check the MAF sensor too and its connection …. A loose or damaged sensor will prevent the vehicle from starting.

——

Also check to make sure the brake pedal (or clutch pedal) “bumpers” are not missing. If they are, or have become deteriorated, that will also cause starting issues. The threads for that topic is here:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...edal-bumper-nhtsa-recall.172153/#post-3670904

and

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/brake-light-switch-near-pedal-failure.122100/

I mean, you have to start simple and work your way up for diagnosis without throwing parts at it.

 

[blakedanatural]

Hello ,
I checked the fuses for the starter and for the fuel pump and still nothing. Im guessing to have towed to the dealer and have a diagnostic done. I should tell them I need a relearn because a crankshaft position sensor was installed. I hate that i have to go to the stealership but it is what it is. Thank you to everyone that gave me input with this issue. 131 k miles and everything is killing me. Imma go out and look at each spark plug and coil. I will let everyone know what the damage is.

blake

Was the crank sensor replaced with a Ford unit or some off the wall back alley auto parts store unit?

You have to do a relearn procedure… if you didn’t, that’s going to cause issues - but it won’t cause a non-start.

Pull the crank sensor, ohm spec it to make sure it’s within factory specs…. If it’s beyond +/- the factory spec by a large margin it’s a junk sensor. Also check to make sure the pins in the connector to the crank sensor have not been damaged and also make sure the harness has not been damaged.

Check the fuel pump as mentioned too. Do you hear it prime when you push the button initially? You should hear a very distinct prime.

Have you checked for any blown fuses in the passenger side kick panel OR any of them larger fuses in the fuse box under the hood?

Check the MAF sensor too and its connection …. A loose or damaged sensor will prevent the vehicle from starting.

——

Also check to make sure the brake pedal (or clutch pedal) “bumpers” are not missing. If they are, or have become deteriorated, that will also cause starting issues. The threads for that topic is here:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...edal-bumper-nhtsa-recall.172153/#post-3670904

and

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/brake-light-switch-near-pedal-failure.122100/

I mean, you have to start simple and work your way up for diagnosis without throwing parts at it.

Hello ,
No it was a ford crankshaft position sensor from the dealer. Update after having it towed this morning to Ford the service tech called and asked if I had a Lune or bama tune. He says the starter is frozen. I told him I had a ford performance pack 2 tune with the pro cal tool. He said ok and will call me back.

 

[blakedanatural]

Thank you for your input and yes I am learning now there is a process to finding the problem. I did check the fuses under the hood but I didnt under the passenger side kick panel. All the connectors where good and seated too. Thank you for schooling me for future issues. I panicked and didnt want the dealer to over price me for parts if they were the culprit. Waiting to hear from the dealer.

 

[blakedanatural]

Here it is guys. no rpm signal for engine to start-eec tyest no codes -diag - move crank sensor around and the engine started-touched sensor and engne shut off-next diag step is to check the exciter wheel-but to do that you have to remove the transmission-pulled the crank sensor out and looks and test ok but I would recommend replacing the sensor first and then if we need to go into checking the wheel to do that.
ENGINE01
crankshaft sensor $75.12 labor $639,95 total $715.07 10% off total including taxes parts etc $839.00

 

[blakedanatural]

This is why I hate when the dealer has your car and you are at their disposal. the dealer called and asked did I have a bama tune or a Lune tune and I told them no. I did tell them that that I had a ford perfomance gt350 power pack 2 tune installed by a Ford dealer. I asked did he need my pro cal tool to reinstall the tune and he reply was no. Do you think the tune was deleted with the new crank shaft sensor installed. Yall remember I attempted to put in a crankshaft sensor put I was having a problem getting it to seat properly from installing it above the engine. Taking the battery and battery casing out etc,,,. The bottom line is Im running again but I feel I got got

 

[MKL_DS]

They shouldn't need to flash it to do a crank relearn, but there's likely a way to confirm if the tune is still there or if they flashed it back to a 'stock' calibration.

 

[blakedanatural]

They shouldn't need to flash it to do a crank relearn, but there's likely a way to confirm if the tune is still there or if they flashed it back to a 'stock' calibration.

Yes I m thinking the same thing. Im going to email the dealer

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