Opg install, Whats all required?

[Roh92cp]

I would consult a machine shop first about the broken bolt in the crank to see what they recommend. You may end up ruining the threads and crank trying to get that broken piece out yourself. I'm very sorry to here this happened to you.

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[hmperf]

It would also reinforce how the OP/TG should be considered highly mandatory items for any forced induction applications if you don't have a specific aftermarket warranty covering your motor.

Just out of curiosity, how come? I cant say Ive heard a lot of these issues on the S550. I would think bouncing off the rev limiter a lot would do it but otherwise, why would they fail? and why would FI make any difference?

 

[HISSMAN]

Just out of curiosity, how come? I cant say Ive heard a lot of these issues on the S550. I would think bouncing off the rev limiter a lot would do it but otherwise, why would they fail? and why would FI make any difference?

Mostly due to the added strain that a blower pulley attached to the crankshaft adds. Then you have a much sharper shock when torque hits.

 

[hmperf]

Mostly due to the adds strain that a blower pulley attached to the crankshaft adds. Then you have a much sharper shock when torque hits.

Thank you.. that makes sense... So then it seems if you stay off the rev limiter you shouldnt have any problems?

 

[HISSMAN]

Thank you.. that makes sense... So then it seems if you stay off the rev limiter you shouldnt have any problems?

That is a safe enough bet, but shit happens daily around me.

 

[Mootang]

So, anyone here know how to pull the ATI damper off the crank? I figured I asked before I go and mess things up again. A 3 leg puller looks like I will damage it. Do I have to use a different puller for the ATI?

 

[Roh92cp]

So, anyone here know how to pull the ATI damper off the crank? I figured I asked before I go and mess things up again. A 3 leg puller looks like I will damage it. Do I have to use a different puller for the ATI?

All kinds of different pullers out there that can be used. However they must pull evenly from 3 points on the damper by removing 3 of the long bolts that go to the hub.

 

[Mootang]

All kinds of different pullers out there that can be used. However they must pull evenly from 3 points on the damper by removing 3 of the long bolts that go to the hub.

Just looked up a few things and found out a 3 bolt one will work. I am assuming its best to remove the face of the damper first and then then 3 bolt the secondary pulley on the damper and then pull out?

Or should I be pulling it out with the face on, meaning as assembled?

 

[Roh92cp]

Just remove 3 of the long bolts on the damper face and thread with bolts of same thread pitch of course and you should be able to pull. Just make sure the removal tools big center bolt driver does not come in contact with the broken bolt in the crank.

 

[ahl395]

[MENTION=26707]Mootang[/MENTION], read page 19 where Roh92cp helped me with the same thing and there is a picture of it there as well.

 

[sigintel]

Drill guide

You have a drill press?
You might want to consider making a drill guide, or maybe drill a center hole thru the bolt piece that fell out to put back in to guide your drill bit down the crank snout.
Pulling damper sounds wise at this point before extraction.
This aint bad, lol, there should be a worst personal fudge ups thread and you likely wouldnt make top ten.

 

[Mootang]

You have a drill press?
You might want to consider making a drill guide, or maybe drill a center hole thru the bolt piece that fell out to put back in to guide your drill bit down the crank snout.
Pulling damper sounds wise at this point before extraction.
This aint bad, lol, there should be a worst personal fudge ups thread and you likely wouldnt make top ten.

I don't have a drill press, but that idea sounds good! I been using a punch to make my center mark inside the broken stud. I started drilling, but its very slow and I am still at it. Just takes time and I been taking a lot of breaks because of this screwed up mess I caused myself.

 

[Crackerjack17]

Man, just read through the last couple pages. Dang, that sucks man. Hope you get it out without damaging the crank. What about putting a piece of thin wall pipe inside the crank while you drill to keep you from hitting the threads? Your likely almost done at this point though.

 

[Roh92cp]

Man, just read through the last couple pages. Dang, that sucks man. Hope you get it out without damaging the crank. What about putting a piece of thin wall pipe inside the crank while you drill to keep you from hitting the threads? Your likely almost done at this point though.

Very good idea with the thin wall pipe

 

[Mootang]

So, after 2-3 discouraging and long OPG install weeks, I went ahead with an idea I had. Thanking [MENTION=20657]db252[/MENTION] for reenforcing my idea and I had a little more confidence going through with it. After hours of drilling, I decided that this was not going anywhere since there was still a lot of left over bolt still snapped in there. Here was the idea:

There is approximately 70mm non-threaded hole space before the bolt for the damper touches the crankshaft's threads. The original damper bolt is a M12 x 1.5 and the ~70mm hole has a 15mm diameter of space. I figured I can tap a M16 x 1.5 thread and get a 60mm length M16 x 1.5 grade 10.1 bolt and a few washers to install the damper. I ended up taping for an hour and then started my install again. It worked and the dampers looks correct. I know I am running a new bolt on top of the broken one, but screw it, I am closing up now lol. We try it to start it up tomorrow and hope that I am not off a tick on timing. Here are a few pics of the install:

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