Opg install, Whats all required?

[v8ter]

So I would like to know what all is need in parts to do the opg and cg upgrade, like what kind of silicon, which gaskets,and is there anything else I should look into?

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[esacteksab]

It's all o-ringed. If you're careful enough, shouldn't need new ones. Here's the tube of sealant that Ford's manual calls out https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NUB7PY (others may have used something different/cheaper).

You'll need a tool to turn the crank https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F5ECRM

You'll also need a puller for the damper. And torque wrenches. Otherwise, it all comes apart with basic hand tools.

 

[FIVE_LITER]

No need to buy a tool to turn the crank, just use your old bolt.

You do however need a longer bolt to get the damper back on. I believe MMR sells one.

You also need this since the crank bolt is torque to yield. http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/156-2502/10002/-1

No need for new gaskets unless you're careless or unlucky.

I forget what silicone we used but it was some fancy stuff, probably could get away with the cheap stuff, but my buddy had this high dollar stuff so we used it.

A small electric impact driver makes life much easier.

The bolts to the oil pickup tube suck, but the rest of the job is easy. Take your time and you'll be fine!

Have fun, and happy wrenching. Any questions feel free to PM me.

 

[v8ter]

Nice, thats some good information. Im wondering, why is a longer bolt needed to install the damper?

 

[Slamdcoop0428]

Nice, thats some good information. Im wondering, why is a longer bolt needed to install the damper?

Because the dampemer barely goes on the end of the crank. The stock crank bolt is to short and if it even can grab you run the risk of ruining the crank threads. Mmr sells a longer bolt that can reach very easy with a good amount of threads to pull it on far enough to where you can use your new crank bolt to finish pulling the balancer on and tq to spec.

 

[v8ter]

That makes sense, definitely buying it then, thanks for your help guys

 

[bobbyh]

Because the dampemer barely goes on the end of the crank. The stock crank bolt is to short and if it even can grab you run the risk of ruining the crank threads. Mmr sells a longer bolt that can reach very easy with a good amount of threads to pull it on far enough to where you can use your new crank bolt to finish pulling the balancer on and tq to spec.

That's great real world advice; I wouldn't of thought of that until I was actually doing it and I'd be pissed I didn't get a longer bolt.

They should have a FI subforum for OPG/TG/damper questions. ;)

There have been at least a few new posts a day, in a couple forums, for these items and it would be nice to have them all in once place.

It would also reinforce how the OP/TG should be considered highly mandatory items for any forced induction applications if you don't have a specific aftermarket warranty covering your motor.

 

[SmokedSS]

I purchased a B-7 stud 12" long and had the end machined for a 3/8" wrench cut it and made two 6" long studs. Works perfect and have 1 to sell for $10 plus shipping.
Planning to post it and several other items in the classified just had not had time to post it yet, can send pictures if interested.

 

[Slamdcoop0428]

That's great real world advice; I wouldn't of thought of that until I was actually doing it and I'd be pissed I didn't get a longer bolt.

They should have a FI subforum for OPG/TG/damper questions. ;)

There have been at least a few new posts a day, in a couple forums, for these items and it would be nice to have them all in once place.

It would also reinforce how the OP/TG should be considered highly mandatory items for any forced induction applications if you don't have a specific aftermarket warranty covering your motor.

No problem. Ive installed a few sets of opg's and crank sprockets now so im pretty familiar with it. I charge $350 for install if anyone is interested lol.

 

[FIVE_LITER]

Also if you don't already have these I suggest you print them off.
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53162

 

[v8ter]

http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/156-2502/10002/-1

Whats that for? So Im gona need that plus the mmr one?

http://www.modularmotorsportsracing...page=product_info&cPath=28_29&products_id=289

 

[Roh92cp]

http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/156-2502/10002/-1

Whats that for? So Im need that plus the mmr one?

Are you installing the MMR damper, or stock damper?

 

[v8ter]

Are you installing the MMR damper, or stock damper?

Im installing the stock, Gona wait a bit until I finish some other projects and then get the ati later before I go with a smaller pulley, are you staying with the mmr or gona get the ati or stock?

 

[FIVE_LITER]

http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/156-2502/10002/-1

Whats that for? So Im gona need that plus the mmr one?

http://www.modularmotorsportsracing...page=product_info&cPath=28_29&products_id=289

Yes you need both. The factory bolt is torque to yield so it's garbage after you remove it. The ARP bolt is not long enough to catch enough threads to pull your balancer back on the crank, that's where the MMR bolt comes into play. The ARP bolt is not torque to yield so you can reuse it.

 

[v8ter]

Yes you need both. The factory bolt is torque to yield so it's garbage after you remove it. The ARP bolt is not long enough to catch enough threads to pull your balancer back on the crank, that's where the MMR bolt comes into play. The ARP bolt is not torque to yield so you can reuse it.

This makes it pretty clear, I really appreciate your help , so how could we make this a sticky?

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