Opg install, Whats all required?

[BrazukaV8]

Some have literally pulled on the belt and manually turned the engine while doing so to get it to 'derail' and just keep working for it. I cut mine and bought and bought a new one.

I just cut it. Tomorrow I'll buy a new one. Thank you

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[dsp4848]

Can anyone tell me how to remove the ac belt? I'm doing opg now and can't seem to find any info on that.

Yeah I bought a new one and just cut it the old one. Walking the new one on with the zip tie method listed in the Ford manual was pretty easy.

 

[dsp4848]

So, finally started the engine for the first time today since doing the OPG and TS install (been out of town for a week since I put it in last weekend) and no CELs so that's great! Everything sounds and seems to be fine, except I am leaking oil from the passenger side valve cover.

The first time I installed the passenger side valve cover, I used the original gasket. Washed off the valve cover gasket groove with soap and water as the Ford manual calls out, everything was very clean. The leak was coming from the rear, bottom side of the valve cover and dripping onto the exhaust header and cat, so it started smoking. Hence, the reason I figured out so quickly that it was leaking.

Reinstalled a second time using a new gasket that I ordered online (BR3Z-6584-D) and the same thing happened, except it also started leaking oil at the point where you apply the gasket sealant - where front cover meets the head. Maybe this second time was too quick and the sealant hadn't fully cured before I started the engine. I started about 30 minutes after applying the sealant.

Both times, everything was torqued to spec and everything was double checked. So, something is up, because the car never leaked oil from the valve covers, I'm just trying to figure out what is the issue.

So, my questions are:

1. How long did you guys wait to let the gasket sealant dry before starting up the car?

2. Since I'm getting these leaks, could I apply gasket sealant around the leaking areas of the head surface where the gasket meets? Is there any reason this shouldn't be done?

I'd appreciate any feedback if any of you guys has had something similar happen.

 

[Bartly]

So, finally started the engine for the first time today since doing the OPG and TS install (been out of town for a week since I put it in last weekend) and no CELs so that's great! Everything sounds and seems to be fine, except I am leaking oil from the passenger side valve cover.

The first time I installed the passenger side valve cover, I used the original gasket. Washed off the valve cover gasket groove with soap and water as the Ford manual calls out, everything was very clean. The leak was coming from the rear, bottom side of the valve cover and dripping onto the exhaust header and cat, so it started smoking. Hence, the reason I figured out so quickly that it was leaking.

Reinstalled a second time using a new gasket that I ordered online (BR3Z-6584-D) and the same thing happened, except it also started leaking oil at the point where you apply the gasket sealant - where front cover meets the head. Maybe this second time was too quick and the sealant hadn't fully cured before I started the engine. I started about 30 minutes after applying the sealant.

Both times, everything was torqued to spec and everything was double checked. So, something is up, because the car never leaked oil from the valve covers, I'm just trying to figure out what is the issue.

So, my questions are:

1. How long did you guys wait to let the gasket sealant dry before starting up the car?

2. Since I'm getting these leaks, could I apply gasket sealant around the leaking areas of the head surface where the gasket meets? Is there any reason this shouldn't be done?

I'd appreciate any feedback if any of you guys has had something similar happen.

Not sure why yours is leaking. Mine sat overnight before starting, but I would think 30 minutes would be fine if you use good sealant. What type of sealant did you use, would think even the wrong sealant would take days or even weeks to start leaking, son of sure what is going on. Was there a dried up bead there from the sealant that was added when puting the timing cover on, if so that needs to be cleaned flat before puting the valve cover on?

 

[jabrax]

was about to close it all, but something in the back of my mind has been bugging me about the silicone. the word "Ultra" - I have permatex Black silicone from pepboys and not the Ultra - Just googled and they are definitely different. Off to find some Ultra

 

[Roh92cp]

So, finally started the engine for the first time today since doing the OPG and TS install (been out of town for a week since I put it in last weekend) and no CELs so that's great! Everything sounds and seems to be fine, except I am leaking oil from the passenger side valve cover.

The first time I installed the passenger side valve cover, I used the original gasket. Washed off the valve cover gasket groove with soap and water as the Ford manual calls out, everything was very clean. The leak was coming from the rear, bottom side of the valve cover and dripping onto the exhaust header and cat, so it started smoking. Hence, the reason I figured out so quickly that it was leaking.

Reinstalled a second time using a new gasket that I ordered online (BR3Z-6584-D) and the same thing happened, except it also started leaking oil at the point where you apply the gasket sealant - where front cover meets the head. Maybe this second time was too quick and the sealant hadn't fully cured before I started the engine. I started about 30 minutes after applying the sealant.

Both times, everything was torqued to spec and everything was double checked. So, something is up, because the car never leaked oil from the valve covers, I'm just trying to figure out what is the issue.

So, my questions are:

1. How long did you guys wait to let the gasket sealant dry before starting up the car?

2. Since I'm getting these leaks, could I apply gasket sealant around the leaking areas of the head surface where the gasket meets? Is there any reason this shouldn't be done?

I'd appreciate any feedback if any of you guys has had something similar happen.

I would check to make sure your not getting interference in the back keeping the cam cover from sealing with the rubber gaskets. Also I would not run the motor for at least 8 hours until gasket sealant silicone has cured.

 

[dsp4848]

I would check to make sure your not getting interference in the back keeping the cam cover from sealing with the rubber gaskets. Also I would not run the motor for at least 8 hours until gasket sealant silicone has cured.

Thanks for the advice. Yeah I'm just going to let it sit overnight and start it tomorrow afternoon with fingers crossed. I reinstalled the valve cover today at around 4pm for the third time, so if it continues leaking then I'm out of ideas. This time I went back to the original gasket that came with the car because it is still in perfect shape. The BR3Z-6584-D is actually different that the one that comes with the car which makes me believe that it's actually not the correct one. This one is not as thick as the factory gasket and was harder to push into the gasket groove of the valve cover. There's another couple of threads on here that mention this and I think they're right. Also, I put a thin line of gasket sealant along the bottom half of the valve gasket where it was leaking just as another way of sealing the valve cover.

I've also checked and there's no interference anywhere. I removed the battery housing cover and cowl brace to get better access to the valve cover. Removing those makes it soooo much easier to access the rear bolts of the valve cover. The gasket and head area were both cleaned properly, no beads of old gasket sealant were remaining, and everything was torqued to spec (89 in-lbs), so I'm hopeful for tomorrow.

was about to close it all, but something in the back of my mind has been bugging me about the silicone. the word "Ultra" - I have permatex Black silicone from pepboys and not the Ultra - Just googled and they are definitely different. Off to find some Ultra

Yeah I used the ultra black permatex. This is the one I bought (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UEN1U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1), but I think Auto Zone/O'Reilly/Advance also carry it.

 

[jabrax]

Yeah I used the ultra black permatex. This is the one I bought (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UEN1U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1), but I think Auto Zone/O'Reilly/Advance also carry it.

yeah, i found it at autozone. I'm done with pepboys lol

 

[BrazukaV8]

I just finished my opg install. Let me tell u I think I gained an extra 300hp just in confidence to shift at higher rpm lol. I let the engine sit over night cuzz I had to buy another ac belt and dealer was closed. My coolant temp went up to 247 when I was in traffic for about 20min, so I turned the heater on and it went back down quick to about 198 I also installed a 170 Tstat. I will burp the system in the AM

 

[jabrax]

i dont care what anyone says... torque wrench on rear lower driver side valve cover is IMPOSSIBLE lol

 

[beefcake]

don't forget we have our opg / sprocket and opg / sprocket / balancer on sale for tomorrow for our christmas sale.

got the prices up already for ya!

http://teambeefcakeracing.com/xmas-year-end-sale.html

 

[dsp4848]

Ok, so finally officially completed this install today and no leaks! I let the passenger side valve cover sit overnight after being reinstalled and it was leak free today. Started the car up a couple of times, checked for leaks with a mirror and then did an oil change and buttoned everything up. Drove for a bit tonight and afterwards verified again with a mirror that there are no leaks anywhere.

So, for anyone else doing this install, I would suggest the following:

1. Go ahead and remove the battery shield cover and black cowl brace (if installed). It makes accessing the passenger side rear valve cover bolts much easier.

2. If you do order valve cover gaskets, I don't think the BR3Z-6584-A and BR3Z-6584-D are the right ones. I can't say 100% sure that this is the case, but they are smaller than the factory ones and are harder to place in the valve cover grooves. Look at these two threads:
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67842&highlight=valve+cover+gasket
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65785&highlight=valve+cover+gasket

3. Before putting the front timing cover back on, make sure that you know which bolt goes where. They are different lengths and different head sizes and when you are under pressure to torque these as quickly as possible (supposed to be 5 minutes or less) because of the gasket sealant being applied, you don't want to have to experiment with what goes where. Also, if you put a short bolt where a longer one goes, it'll strip the first couple of threads of where it threads into. Scared me at first when I made this mistake, but the longer one went in fine like it was supposed to and all was good after that.

4. Definitely buy a new crankshaft pulley bolt since it is torque to yield.

5. Buy a new AC belt and just cut the original one off. I'm sure you could get away with reusing the old one, but in order to save time, I think it's worth it to just buy a new one. Cut mine off with wire cutters and then installed the new one with the zip tie method and getting it on was pretty easy.

6. Don't get too big of a pulley puller for the crankshaft pulley or you will have to go the the auto parts store and get a smaller one. I used the 2-3 ton pulley puller from Auto Zone which worked great. At first I rented the 5 ton and it ended up being to big to fit inside the factory crankshaft pulley.

7. For the bottom oil pickup tube bolt, I used the electrical tape method (poke bolt through tape and use that as a means of holding it and making sure you can retrieve it if it falls) in combination with a bendable magnet and it wasn't that bad to get threaded in. I used the magnet to turn the bolt little by little at first and then used a ratcheting wrench to fully tighten. Here's the magnet I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H5QRV4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

8. Having trim tools helps speed things up when removing trim pins and detaching wiring harnesses from the valve covers. I used these and they worked great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FPPOQ6I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
11 pieces may be overkill, but this kit has everything you'll need.

9. Be prepared for this to take a while, especially if it's your first time doing this sort of an install (it was for me). I would say set aside at least two days to get everything done. Some people might be able to hammer it out in one day, but I know I couldn't.




Feel free to message me with any questions or if you need access to any of the Ford service manuals. I'd be more than happy to help.

Anyway, just wanted to post my experience and advice since I used a ton of information and advice that others on this forum had given out. Thank you to everyone who has posted information and pictures for this install, it helped out a lot!! :cheers:

 

[dsp4848]

i dont care what anyone says... torque wrench on rear lower driver side valve cover is IMPOSSIBLE lol

I had to use a 1/4" universal joint with some extensions in order to get it torqued. For the passenger side I had to take out the battery shield cover to access the bottom valve cover bolts.

 

[jabrax]

Ok, so finally officially completed this install today and no leaks! I let the passenger side valve cover sit overnight after being reinstalled and it was leak free today. Started the car up a couple of times, checked for leaks with a mirror and then did an oil change and buttoned everything up. Drove for a bit tonight and afterwards verified again with a mirror that there are no leaks anywhere.

So, for anyone else doing this install, I would suggest the following:

1. Go ahead and remove the battery shield cover and black cowl brace (if installed). It makes accessing the passenger side rear valve cover bolts much easier.

2. If you do order valve cover gaskets, I don't think the BR3Z-6584-A and BR3Z-6584-D are the right ones. I can't say 100% sure that this is the case, but they are smaller than the factory ones and are harder to place in the valve cover grooves. Look at these two threads:
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67842&highlight=valve+cover+gasket
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65785&highlight=valve+cover+gasket

3. Before putting the front timing cover back on, make sure that you know which bolt goes where. They are different lengths and different head sizes and when you are under pressure to torque these as quickly as possible (supposed to be 5 minutes or less) because of the gasket sealant being applied, you don't want to have to experiment with what goes where. Also, if you put a short bolt where a longer one goes, it'll strip the first couple of threads of where it threads into. Scared me at first when I made this mistake, but the longer one went in fine like it was supposed to and all was good after that.

4. Definitely buy a new crankshaft pulley bolt since it is torque to yield.

5. Buy a new AC belt and just cut the original one off. I'm sure you could get away with reusing the old one, but in order to save time, I think it's worth it to just buy a new one. Cut mine off with wire cutters and then installed the new one with the zip tie method and getting it on was pretty easy.

6. Don't get too big of a pulley puller for the crankshaft pulley or you will have to go the the auto parts store and get a smaller one. I used the 2-3 ton pulley puller from Auto Zone which worked great. At first I rented the 5 ton and it ended up being to big to fit inside the factory crankshaft pulley.

7. For the bottom oil pickup tube bolt, I used the electrical tape method (poke bolt through tape and use that as a means of holding it and making sure you can retrieve it if it falls) in combination with a bendable magnet and it wasn't that bad to get threaded in. I used the magnet to turn the bolt little by little at first and then used a ratcheting wrench to fully tighten. Here's the magnet I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H5QRV4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

8. Having trim tools helps speed things up when removing trim pins and detaching wiring harnesses from the valve covers. I used these and they worked great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FPPOQ6I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
11 pieces may be overkill, but this kit has everything you'll need.

9. Be prepared for this to take a while, especially if it's your first time doing this sort of an install (it was for me). I would say set aside at least two days to get everything done. Some people might be able to hammer it out in one day, but I know I couldn't.




Feel free to message me with any questions or if you need access to any of the Ford service manuals. I'd be more than happy to help.

Anyway, just wanted to post my experience and advice since I used a ton of information and advice that others on this forum had given out. Thank you to everyone who has posted information and pictures for this install, it helped out a lot!! :cheers:

I ran into the bolt issue today with the timing cover. fortunately, it was the stub bolt and long bolt in the wrong places and neither was at a silicone joint. I noticed it later when needing to attach a wiring harness to a stub bolt that wasn't there (driverside). Agreed, the pressure of the 5 minute time limit adds to the tension haha. I will also list the gotchas i experienced. It has been painful and very slow

Ashamed to say, but the oil pickup bolt turned out to be kinda easy for me. Electrical tape method with skinny fingers.
If you have smallish hands, you can screw the bolt with the tips of you fingers. Left hand reaches around the pickup tube and you can put your finger on the bolt, stick the other finger in an bam, was able to screw it all the way to put a regular wrench on it. Took 10 minutes tops and didnt need a curved wrench. Got lucky with that, but the damn drivers side valve coover and clips were a pain in the ass. Ended up tightening by feel with a regular wrench, f**k trying to get the torque wrench to work lol

And I still haven't figured out how to lock in the oil tube, spent 1/2 hour trying and gave up. Scared I will break it

 

[DrDing.Muscle]

I ran into the bolt issue today with the timing cover. fortunately, it was the stub bolt and long bolt in the wrong places and neither was at a silicone joint. I noticed it later when needing to attach a wiring harness to a stub bolt that wasn't there (driverside). Agreed, the pressure of the 5 minute time limit adds to the tension haha. I will also list the gotchas i experienced. It has been painful and very slow

Ashamed to say, but the oil pickup bolt turned out to be kinda easy for me. Electrical tape method with skinny fingers.
If you have smallish hands, you can screw the bolt with the tips of you fingers. Left hand reaches around the pickup tube and you can put your finger on the bolt, stick the other finger in an bam, was able to screw it all the way to put a regular wrench on it. Took 10 minutes tops and didnt need a curved wrench. Got lucky with that, but the damn drivers side valve coover and clips were a pain in the ass. Ended up tightening by feel with a regular wrench, f**k trying to get the torque wrench to work lol

And I still haven't figured out how to lock in the oil tube, spent 1/2 hour trying and gave up. Scared I will break it

The oil tube is cake. You just slip it down into the valve cover and I think there are tabs and notches you line up and then you turn it like a quarter turn and the little plastic tab will pop out into one of the notches and that is what keeps it in there. To release it take a small screw driver and pull that little plastic tab back and turn it back the other direction. Easy peasy.

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