on3 to 3.2 KB car

[Travis@boostworks]

The turbo cars pull hard when the boost hits and then you are doing speeds that will get you arrested in the twinkling of an eye.

The on3(sorry to mention Travis but he asked. lol) had low mounted ball bearing 62's and seemed to hit may be at lower rpm than the top mounted Hellion with 55 Journals.

I am a PD blower type of guy(nothing wrong with preferring turbo's:cheers and love the instant/low rpm grunt you get with the KB. It does not hit quite as hard as the my old snake bite TVS which made 800 lb/ft at 2500 rpm but fizzled out after 6500 rpm. Still makes for a very fun street car(close but not quite as much fun as my GT 350 as a street car) without needing to hit the warp speeds that you get into quickly with the turbo's.

I thought it was fun with the 4 inch pulley ......but it is just outrageous now with the 3.5 pulley.

Travis,I am not sure why I was seeing more than 14-15 psi on the dyno with the 4 inch(my gauge read 14-15)

when we assembling the 5.2 long block(also 11.0 CR pistons like in the KB 5.0) my installer thinks the dynamic compression ratio will be higher because of the way pistons matched the GT 350 heads/valves if that makes sense.

Looking at the dyno again, graphing for speed I also think he may have been in 5 th
It did make a little more with the cut outs open but the exhaust does really narrow down after the cutouts to 2.5 in some places. I am sure the resonators are also creating some restriction.
I am sure once we sort out the plugs the 3.5 pulley will make well north of 900 as it was already making 3.5 psi before spark blow out.

Depends on the cams, heads, etc.. sounds about right for that pulley combo.

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[olaosunt]

Car is going back on the dyno with 3.5 pulley, smaller belt
New NGK plugs gaped to 0.022 as instructed.
My guy at Ford was also able to do the Ford axles/and swap rear end to 3.31(it had the 3.55 I had swapped with the Hellion/auto car when I thought I was trading).
just need to install MGW and fix leaky GT 350 oil pam gasket and she may be ready to run next week.
I need to make sure the ID 1000s are going to be enough(looked okay before breaking up last week) up to 7500 rpm.
It is making a solid 19 psi per my gauge on the street but peak boost on the dyno may be more.
I am expecting power to be in the mid to high 900 range with 4 extra psi since it made 868 with bigger pulley.

Not going to be able to take video since I will be at work.
Crappy cell phone pictures from last session below(after dyno)

Just for reference it made 816 @15 psi on the stock engine with on3 earlier year

this year.

 

[Obsol3te]

Badass man, cant wait to see your results!

 

[Boduke0220]

Cool build! In for the numbers!

 

[FATHERFORD]

At I think 50psi base pressure, ID-1000's can do over a thousand on e-85

 

[Travis@boostworks]

We run them at 4 bar base pressure (58psi), and they support around 1100whp on E85 at 95% DC.

 

[olaosunt]

Thx Travis. Good to know.
Lund said to bump the pressure to 60 psi.Fuel system has triple pumps.

I am hoping I will be good as not looking to go past 1000.Hopefully the block with sleeve supports will hold up.

I "upgraded" to the ID1300s on the Hellion car and will be switching to a triple pump set up (from Sai's) since I may want to push the sleeved block well north of 1000(or to the limits of the 55's)

 

[olaosunt]

Well dyno session did not go well.
Knock sensors were pulling timing from average of 23 last session to 13-15.
Made about same power as boost 4-5 psi lower.(same dyno reading)-4 inch pulley.

I still think the dyno boost reading is falsely high but peaked at 22psi with 3.5 pulley

The only power train changes since last session were new plugs(NGK)gapped to 0.022 (same brand/type plugs previously gapped to 0.028 when we had spark blow out).
Also have slightly shorter belt. Filled up after session with E85 at usual station-typically I check content but did not the last time.

Considering causes may be false knock/bad gas/plugs.
Car runs fine or even better than before.

Lund suggested the NGK's were not cold enough so I may try the coldest brisks but I have not had luck with them before -fouled easily.

I will run the current gas out and refill after checking content and may be do a pull on the street in case there was false knock on the dyno(Operator said no changes in straps from last time).

I also noted higher IAT's since smaller pulley. pull started at 122 and was 150's at end of run.
I have noticed high AAT readings since kit installed .Usually 10-15 above outside temps so I don't think air is getting to the filter.
Travis, am I supposed to cut a whole in the wheel fender?

Any ideas??
Help.:frusty:

 

[FIVE_LITER]

You still running the stock grill? There really isn't too much of it opened up going into the intake, wonder if that could possibly be causing you problems.

I want to see this car, maybe we can get together sometime soon. I'll shoot ya a text here in a few days, maybe we can get you squared away with all your issues.

 

[Obsol3te]

The KB kit has their inlet coming from the drivers side fender. You cut a hole in the splash guard. It's getting plenty of air

 

[Weather Man]

You could drain and run E98 to see if any improvement in knock. Only problem is that the ID1000 may not be enough injector. Captain obvious here: double check intercooler pump working with no trapped bubbles.

 

[olaosunt]

You still running the stock grill? There really isn't too much of it opened up going into the intake, wonder if that could possibly be causing you problems.

I want to see this car, maybe we can get together sometime soon. I'll shoot ya a text here in a few days, maybe we can get you squared away with all your issues.

The KB kit has their inlet coming from the drivers side fender. You cut a hole in the splash guard. It's getting plenty of air

You could drain and run E98 to see if any improvement in knock. Only problem is that the ID1000 may not be enough injector. Captain obvious here: double check intercoolepump working with no trapped bubbles.

Thanks guys for all the tips.:cheers:
FIVE LITER-give me a call whenever you want to meet up .I was on John Hartman's group NMS but just asked John to remove me because of all the politics(anti Hilary).
:doh:
I just cut a hole in the fender but really did not see any improvement in the AAT's.
I may poke some holes in the solid part of the lower grill to see if that helps.
Not sure how to check the intercooler pumps but will ask my tech to take a look.

I did a street pull on the old gas and it looks like it was still pulling timing/knock but not as bad(1-2 vs 4 plus on the dyno)
I ran the gas to 5 miles to empty then filled up with fresh E85(.It tested more like 88)-.

Looks like bad fuel was the issue as no more knock-sensors now adding 4 degrees of timing up to almost 22 at peak of pull.
Pull was in 4th and only got up to 6800 but was doing 120+ before I backed off.
Just as well as it may have been going lean(0.88 AFR) with 1.06 STFT.
May be I got E90 or I do need the 1300s ?
I will see what Lund says but with the inconsistent fuel I have been getting I may just stick to Renegade/race E85.

 

[olaosunt]

2015 block with oil squirters??

So ... my guy at Ford finally got caught up trying to fix an oil leak from the oil pan gaskets.
I was there when he took the oil pan down and there was something rattling around in it...... un oh! I thought.

Well, it turns out they were pieces of the squirters that had be broken off by the pistons.
The thing is ,this was supposed to have been the original block out of my Hellion car, a late 15, a buddy helped me rebuild with sleeve supports.

The squirters were supposed to have been deleted after 2013 I thought.

When I called MMR to order the block off plates ,as I plan to remove whats left,the guy I spoke with said initially the 15's did not have squirters but later said he thinks they do as they are removed when they order the production block.

It looks like those pieces rattling around may have been contributing to the knock.
Lund also recommends removing especially for high revving/horse power builds.

 

[Travis@boostworks]

Yep.. might want to check the pistons for damage. Those pieces bouncing around can do some damage. Also check your pickup tube to make sure they aren't lodged in there.

 

[olaosunt]

Thanks man.
sent you a PM about the ice tank we talked about before.

Can I check the pistons with the pan off?
Definitely not going to pull the motor.It is going to be PITA alone per my installer getting the delete plates in.
Car runs fine and was not knocking on the last pull I made with fresh E85.
Running out of fuel though @7000 rpm with the ID1000s.

switching to ID 1300s(already have triple pumps).

...Damn.I wish I had traded the damn car when I had the chance(and made some money off the on3.lol).

All the money I have since spent on the car could have bought me a built GT350 block and my choice of FI( boost works TT or Whipple).

Oh well.At least I have 3 "flavors" of mustang-N/A,TT and supercharged now.

Hopefully sleeved block holds up but I am already considering sending off the block that came out (after it spun a rod with on3) to be sleeved to 5.2 to match the GT 350 heads(and the Hellion car).

It my be in my head but I can definitely 'feel" the extra torque from the 5.2 .lol

Ultimately if I keep it the car a Magnum XL will eventually go in it and then I will be done!

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