Obsol3te
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2015
- Threads
- 54
- Messages
- 1,036
- Reaction score
- 344
- Location
- Hope Mills, NC
- Vehicle(s)
- '15 GT PP
- Thread starter
- #1
Well, I did it. I settled on a kit and I placed the order last night. I'm getting the 3.2L Kenne Bell Mammoth package for my base 15GT. I know this forum is primarily Whipple based, but hopefully I can shed some light on what KB has to offer. I'll be posting pictures as I tear my car apart, and end result dyno numbers when its all said and done.
Finished Product
Same setup, just different tuner. Lund tuning above, Palm Beach dyno tuned below
[ame]
[ame]
[ame]
Trying to run data-logs now. The first time through it didnt fucking save!! Grrr... Starting over.
INSTALL!
Everything has been going fairly smooth, no real issues as of yet other than doing a little extra work that I didn't have to do. After speaking to Travis you really dont need to pull the front bumper cover.
But here we go hopefully they post in order.
First picture, I removed a couple of covers, the battery and engine cover. I skipped around the instructions a little bit doing a little bit of the top end work while I was waiting for the car to cool down.
Second picture I removed the strut tower braces, they wont be re-used. Also disconnected the battery.
Help was en route so I started on the motor mounts. Theyre really not hard to do, dont be afraid of them. I was able to reach the forward chassis to mount bolt with a ratchet from up top. The kooks headers I had to remove the mount to engine nut from underneath, along with the rear mount to chassis.
The passenger side was a LOT harder, but it still wasnt bad. I jacked up one side of the motor using a block of wood and a jack on the corner of the oil pan(i know...)
Lowered it back down with bolts in place and moved onto the drivers side. The drivers side is accessible from the top. Very simple. The directions want you to remove the steering column, you dont have to. You can maneuver that mount around without touching the damn thing. Leave it connected. Plopped the other one in place and torqued it down.
The next pic is just a comparison of the two motor mounts. a clear drop in height as you can see.
The next picture is the removal of the airbox, and a few lines. Factory connectors are pretty simple to remove. Most have this collar you push in and the connector pops right off.
The next pic we disconnected a couple more lines, and also disconnected the fuel rail. Loosened the manifold mounting hardware as well. This bitch is about ready to come off.
Manifold removed. The connectors in the back of the manifold wernt as bad as I thought they'd be. I've got some MITTS and I was able to work my hands back there.
I had a buddy lift the manifold and tilt it slightly toward him so I could remove the two connectors and zip tie mounts at the base of the rear manifold.
The next picture I did a bit more work than I needed to. I guess I didn't have to remove the passenger side fenderwell because im not removing the bumper cover. There is AMPLE room after you take off that plastic air dam underneath the front of the car to reach and do what you need to.
The drivers side DOES need to come out because of the air filter and horn needing to be relocated(im not sure why, Travis you wanna chime in?)
The last picture is just where im at right now, im a little further in the instructions im actually working on cutting the wiring loom and remounting the knock sensors as soon as the wife gets back with my torque wrench.
The knock sensors need to be angled slightly more toward each cylinder head to allow room for clearance of the heat exchanger. There's supplied heat tape that i'll be using and i'll snap a few more pictures of how that's coming along.
I might do a little more tonight, but we'll see. I have my startup tune from Lund waiting in my email, so it's all on my time right now. Hopefully I can piece it back together tomorrow!
Ok, the next pic is the discharge manifold. It was the last thing I got to do last night. I mounted the bypass tube and installed the rubber gaskets for each port. Simple, easy. Then I went to bed dreaming of Kenne
The second pic We mounted the manifold and fuel rails w/ injectors. I didn't snap a pic of the process with the injector install into the rail, but its fairly straight forward. You dont have the injectors clocked at a weird angle anymore like you did from the factory. Theyre now 90º off the rail. We attached one of the two heat exchanger lines in the back as well. You can see the other barbed fitting(silver) on the back drivers side.
The next one, is the bracket that houses the idler pullies. You have to remove a couple water pump bolts and 3 timing chain cover bolts and theyre replaced with some hex heads.
The next pic, yes I know Travis I fucked up. The left idler is supposed to be in the upper left most portion of that bracket. We ended up realizing this later and moved it.
The next pic is splicing into the MAF harness. You have to cut off one of the wires and cap it off from the factory connector and run another wire to it from a supplied harness.
The next one has the SS Fuel line connected and zip tied in place, we also have the idler moved(to the upper left) and we started fucking with the PCV lines. Moving right along!
The next pic is of the EVAP that you mount to the firewall, some assembly was required. Very straightforward though.
Cant remember why I took the next pic. Its been a long day! Maybe I was showing the passenger pcv?
Obviously here is the freshly mounted heat exchanger. The fittings were on the passenger side. One up high with a 90º elbow coming down, the other straight out from the side parallel with the ground. The top fitting had the passenger side line coming from the back of the discharge manifold connect to it with some 90's
The lower connects to your intercooler pump. Its mounted with these two tomahawk looking brackets that use the front bumper mounting hardware.
The next pic is of the heat exchangers pump. It has a small harness coming off to the passenger side with a factory style clip. There is another harness that you need to tap into the bottom of the fuse box in the engine compartment. What a pain in the ass that was! I think tapping into a simple fuse would've been a better option. But I guess it looks cleaner. You strip a section of I think was the fuel pump power and tie in the heat exchanger pump power. The harness that goes from the fuse box now to the pump is extremely long... I dont know what you're compensating for there Travis/Kenne Bell.
The next pic we started changing the spark plugs to some NGK 6510's a step colder. I do recommend doing the damn plugs before you start zip tying all the hoses and connectors. Also we removed the factory PCS valve fitting coming off the drivers valve cover. Replaced with a metal version. Also, I mounted the resevoir for the cooling system on the blower.
Wallah! We're getting somewhere. The blower is finally mounted. After a few tries to get it to seat properly we finally found a weird configuration of fuel lines, pcv lines, and the liquid cooler lines that sprout from the back of the discharge manifold. As noted in the instructions make sure you find out whats binding, dont force it down.
The next pic we're now mounting the throttle body. A small spacer and a couple gaskets. Pretty simple and straight forward. You DO need to take apart the stock TB to get the motor and swap the innards to the new 168mm TB. Also you have to bend down a small tab on the drivers side strut tower to get a little extra clearance.
The next pic, the TB is mounted and we're trying to work the lines for the Liquid cooling's resevoir. We had a couple small hiccups due to thinking we had too much hose. Ended up cutting some portion of it off and shot ourselves in the foot. But we ended up doing a fix involving an extra 90 elbow and a small section of hose.
Last but not least we mounted the bypsass valve, tube and the damn belt. That thing was a pain in the ass trying to get the thing mounted. We ended up maxing out the stock tensioner and had to try and pull that damn belt over the blower pulley. We ended up getting a few ribs of the belt on the pulley and turning the crank over by hand and it walked itself on.
I couldn't of done all this without the help of Alex(sandeale, a member on this forum, and a friend from work). Between lending tools and countless hours getting everything squared away and deciphering the typo'd instructions from here and there. We got it done. Again, i still need to install the BAP and im waiting on Travis to find out if it's necessary to cut the lower plastic cover below the air filter. Im just concerned about rain/wet roads and possibly soaking the filter.
The last thing I did was change the oil and swap to my start-up tune. As soon as I get the BAP installed, let the datalog begin!
This morning I decided to just follow the directions and cut a hole in the drivers side skid plate(whatever that plastic piece is..) The first pic is the rough first cut, the second is the finished result. I didn't really try to make it perfect, but it will do just fine. Using just a dremel cutoff wheel, i trimmed it up pretty quick.
The next pic is of the BAP install. It came pre-set at the correct voltage, and with the connectors already on the BAP side. You need to remove the rear seat which is very simple. Just push in two buttons under each seats center area. And it just lifts off. Next I located the puple wire in the diagram and just cut it about 2" from the connector. spliced in the new connections and then just drilled some holes for the BAP to sit. I removed this block of foam that was there from the factory and used pieces to wedge underneath the BAP incase of vibration. Also, for the ground(not sure if thisll work just yet, but I used the steel bolt on the drivers side. It was unpainted metal and it went down to the chassis, so if it works, it works. The rear seat is still off. If not, ill drill a ground.
Overall the install was pretty easy. I didn't have any real exotic tools, mainly used some hand tools and some allen key sockets with a torque wrench. Some issues with the install manual included some typos. One with a type of rubber hose to use, that started some headache... Also, it would've been nice if the hardware bags were LABELED. I spent a lot of time guesstimating what went where. But again, we still got it completed in a timely manner. I'm sure I could do this a bit quicker the next time around if anyone local needs a hand.
Finished Product
Same setup, just different tuner. Lund tuning above, Palm Beach dyno tuned below
[ame]
[ame]
[ame]
Trying to run data-logs now. The first time through it didnt fucking save!! Grrr... Starting over.
INSTALL!
Everything has been going fairly smooth, no real issues as of yet other than doing a little extra work that I didn't have to do. After speaking to Travis you really dont need to pull the front bumper cover.
But here we go hopefully they post in order.
First picture, I removed a couple of covers, the battery and engine cover. I skipped around the instructions a little bit doing a little bit of the top end work while I was waiting for the car to cool down.
Second picture I removed the strut tower braces, they wont be re-used. Also disconnected the battery.
Help was en route so I started on the motor mounts. Theyre really not hard to do, dont be afraid of them. I was able to reach the forward chassis to mount bolt with a ratchet from up top. The kooks headers I had to remove the mount to engine nut from underneath, along with the rear mount to chassis.
The passenger side was a LOT harder, but it still wasnt bad. I jacked up one side of the motor using a block of wood and a jack on the corner of the oil pan(i know...)
Lowered it back down with bolts in place and moved onto the drivers side. The drivers side is accessible from the top. Very simple. The directions want you to remove the steering column, you dont have to. You can maneuver that mount around without touching the damn thing. Leave it connected. Plopped the other one in place and torqued it down.
The next pic is just a comparison of the two motor mounts. a clear drop in height as you can see.
The next picture is the removal of the airbox, and a few lines. Factory connectors are pretty simple to remove. Most have this collar you push in and the connector pops right off.
The next pic we disconnected a couple more lines, and also disconnected the fuel rail. Loosened the manifold mounting hardware as well. This bitch is about ready to come off.
Manifold removed. The connectors in the back of the manifold wernt as bad as I thought they'd be. I've got some MITTS and I was able to work my hands back there.
I had a buddy lift the manifold and tilt it slightly toward him so I could remove the two connectors and zip tie mounts at the base of the rear manifold.
The next picture I did a bit more work than I needed to. I guess I didn't have to remove the passenger side fenderwell because im not removing the bumper cover. There is AMPLE room after you take off that plastic air dam underneath the front of the car to reach and do what you need to.
The drivers side DOES need to come out because of the air filter and horn needing to be relocated(im not sure why, Travis you wanna chime in?)
The last picture is just where im at right now, im a little further in the instructions im actually working on cutting the wiring loom and remounting the knock sensors as soon as the wife gets back with my torque wrench.
The knock sensors need to be angled slightly more toward each cylinder head to allow room for clearance of the heat exchanger. There's supplied heat tape that i'll be using and i'll snap a few more pictures of how that's coming along.
I might do a little more tonight, but we'll see. I have my startup tune from Lund waiting in my email, so it's all on my time right now. Hopefully I can piece it back together tomorrow!
Ok, the next pic is the discharge manifold. It was the last thing I got to do last night. I mounted the bypass tube and installed the rubber gaskets for each port. Simple, easy. Then I went to bed dreaming of Kenne
The second pic We mounted the manifold and fuel rails w/ injectors. I didn't snap a pic of the process with the injector install into the rail, but its fairly straight forward. You dont have the injectors clocked at a weird angle anymore like you did from the factory. Theyre now 90º off the rail. We attached one of the two heat exchanger lines in the back as well. You can see the other barbed fitting(silver) on the back drivers side.
The next one, is the bracket that houses the idler pullies. You have to remove a couple water pump bolts and 3 timing chain cover bolts and theyre replaced with some hex heads.
The next pic, yes I know Travis I fucked up. The left idler is supposed to be in the upper left most portion of that bracket. We ended up realizing this later and moved it.
The next pic is splicing into the MAF harness. You have to cut off one of the wires and cap it off from the factory connector and run another wire to it from a supplied harness.
The next one has the SS Fuel line connected and zip tied in place, we also have the idler moved(to the upper left) and we started fucking with the PCV lines. Moving right along!
The next pic is of the EVAP that you mount to the firewall, some assembly was required. Very straightforward though.
Cant remember why I took the next pic. Its been a long day! Maybe I was showing the passenger pcv?
Obviously here is the freshly mounted heat exchanger. The fittings were on the passenger side. One up high with a 90º elbow coming down, the other straight out from the side parallel with the ground. The top fitting had the passenger side line coming from the back of the discharge manifold connect to it with some 90's
The lower connects to your intercooler pump. Its mounted with these two tomahawk looking brackets that use the front bumper mounting hardware.
The next pic is of the heat exchangers pump. It has a small harness coming off to the passenger side with a factory style clip. There is another harness that you need to tap into the bottom of the fuse box in the engine compartment. What a pain in the ass that was! I think tapping into a simple fuse would've been a better option. But I guess it looks cleaner. You strip a section of I think was the fuel pump power and tie in the heat exchanger pump power. The harness that goes from the fuse box now to the pump is extremely long... I dont know what you're compensating for there Travis/Kenne Bell.
The next pic we started changing the spark plugs to some NGK 6510's a step colder. I do recommend doing the damn plugs before you start zip tying all the hoses and connectors. Also we removed the factory PCS valve fitting coming off the drivers valve cover. Replaced with a metal version. Also, I mounted the resevoir for the cooling system on the blower.
Wallah! We're getting somewhere. The blower is finally mounted. After a few tries to get it to seat properly we finally found a weird configuration of fuel lines, pcv lines, and the liquid cooler lines that sprout from the back of the discharge manifold. As noted in the instructions make sure you find out whats binding, dont force it down.
The next pic we're now mounting the throttle body. A small spacer and a couple gaskets. Pretty simple and straight forward. You DO need to take apart the stock TB to get the motor and swap the innards to the new 168mm TB. Also you have to bend down a small tab on the drivers side strut tower to get a little extra clearance.
The next pic, the TB is mounted and we're trying to work the lines for the Liquid cooling's resevoir. We had a couple small hiccups due to thinking we had too much hose. Ended up cutting some portion of it off and shot ourselves in the foot. But we ended up doing a fix involving an extra 90 elbow and a small section of hose.
Last but not least we mounted the bypsass valve, tube and the damn belt. That thing was a pain in the ass trying to get the thing mounted. We ended up maxing out the stock tensioner and had to try and pull that damn belt over the blower pulley. We ended up getting a few ribs of the belt on the pulley and turning the crank over by hand and it walked itself on.
I couldn't of done all this without the help of Alex(sandeale, a member on this forum, and a friend from work). Between lending tools and countless hours getting everything squared away and deciphering the typo'd instructions from here and there. We got it done. Again, i still need to install the BAP and im waiting on Travis to find out if it's necessary to cut the lower plastic cover below the air filter. Im just concerned about rain/wet roads and possibly soaking the filter.
The last thing I did was change the oil and swap to my start-up tune. As soon as I get the BAP installed, let the datalog begin!
This morning I decided to just follow the directions and cut a hole in the drivers side skid plate(whatever that plastic piece is..) The first pic is the rough first cut, the second is the finished result. I didn't really try to make it perfect, but it will do just fine. Using just a dremel cutoff wheel, i trimmed it up pretty quick.
The next pic is of the BAP install. It came pre-set at the correct voltage, and with the connectors already on the BAP side. You need to remove the rear seat which is very simple. Just push in two buttons under each seats center area. And it just lifts off. Next I located the puple wire in the diagram and just cut it about 2" from the connector. spliced in the new connections and then just drilled some holes for the BAP to sit. I removed this block of foam that was there from the factory and used pieces to wedge underneath the BAP incase of vibration. Also, for the ground(not sure if thisll work just yet, but I used the steel bolt on the drivers side. It was unpainted metal and it went down to the chassis, so if it works, it works. The rear seat is still off. If not, ill drill a ground.
Overall the install was pretty easy. I didn't have any real exotic tools, mainly used some hand tools and some allen key sockets with a torque wrench. Some issues with the install manual included some typos. One with a type of rubber hose to use, that started some headache... Also, it would've been nice if the hardware bags were LABELED. I spent a lot of time guesstimating what went where. But again, we still got it completed in a timely manner. I'm sure I could do this a bit quicker the next time around if anyone local needs a hand.
Sponsored
Last edited:
