FPCV8YO
Rode Hard & Put Away Wet
I'd be more apt to use the external magnets.
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I'd be more apt to use the external magnets.
Have you tried the product yourself? Seems like a good product, but it looks like it would impede flow a bit.
No I haven't and I wondered about that myself. I sent the manufacturer an inquiry for the heck of it, though you can imagine what they'll say. Since I have lifetime oil changes I'm not going to worry about it as I would be hesitant to ask the dealer to drop anything into my filter regardless of the potential benefit.Have you tried the product yourself? Seems like a good product, but it looks like it would impede flow a bit.
Thanks for elaborating, Spacebird. Never too late to recapture your soul:cheers:I should state that I have not been a practicing spaceflight mechanical engineer for 8 years. I sold my soul to corporate America and am now best described as a shill (AKA consultant).
As the GT350 uses a composite pan and drain plug, there's no way to put a magnet on those parts. I'm not a fan of magnets on pans anyway as you have to remove the pan to clean the collected material.
I can't say anything emphatically, as mechanical systems are enigmatic. Software is easy; you can test and simulate an nauseum in simulated settings and get accurate results. Mechanical systems require time. Lots of it.
Modern engines have less and less ferrous material in them which make FilterMag like devices less effective than they would be in mostly steel engines. Aluminum is non-magnetic, after all. The debris that FilterMags collect is typically smaller than filter media can capture. It's possible that such small debris is mostly harmless as it's much smaller than most engine tolerances. That said, removing any ferrous debris from an engine using a FilterMag is notionally a good idea with no downside that I can surmise.
You'd think GM would've put them as OE on the C7Z, the CTSV and Camaros equipped with the same powerplant... but then agin, you can't stop RTV/silicon from blocking passages with a magnet either.If these magnets we so good at collecting metal inside the filter, why don't the car manufacturers use them in every car they build ?
I'll stick with the FL2069 ST Motorcraft filter.
Engines that last forever are bad for business.If these magnets we so good at collecting metal inside the filter, why don't the car manufacturers use them in every car they build ?
The FilterMag supplements the FL-2069-ST. It does not supplant it.I'll stick with the FL2069 ST Motorcraft filter.
Right now Mobil do not have a synthetic that meets Fords specification (I asked them directly), which is a bummer because I use the 10,000 mile oil in all my vehicles (except the flat tappet motor in my 69 BOSS 302). Then I use the BradPenn formulated for flat tappet engines.The magnets probably work, but I question the need. I have a '97 F150 with 200K miles and an '02 Excursion with 150K miles and neither uses oil ... and have never had a magnet. I'm definitely in favor of an early first oil change to get rid any manufacturing residue. IMHO good clean oil is the key to longevity. I'm a big fan of Mobil One, or Valvoline if not going synthetic. Part of the break in problems some folks are having may be due to the fact that the engine comes with synthetic oil. We've always used normal oil to break in our built engines, then switched to synthetic.
Agreed. I've used Blackstone Laboratories in the past.I think if anyone is really concerned about contamination and wear, on each oil change a sample should be drawn and sent to a lab that specials in analyzing for excessive wear and contamination. This usually indicates, whats in the oil, how much, and what the origin of a particular contaminant is (i.e. engine bearing, block, cam gears, camshaft, etc.)