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oil change intervals

Chameleon

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1st at 2700, every 5,000 after that.
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Falconetti

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Just rolled over 1500 miles (after owning my GT with PP since early December 2014 (deployments and harsh winters have kept it garaged a lot) and decided to change the oil as well as gearbox fluid (manual MT82 Chinese assembled Getrag) and differential lube due to the car sitting off and on. Ford changed the oil to Motorcraft 5W20 Full Synthetic for the coyote, Motorcraft QDC and XL18 for the Tranny (AMSOIL 5W30 was their optional stuff for warmer climates), and Motorcraft for the rear differential. No unusual particulate, debris, fine metal, or shavings found in any of the three upon inspection but I didn't ask for an oil analysis either. Still, fresh fluids after sitting off and on gives me piece of mind (clutch fluid and brake fluids next order of business along with coolant replace)
All at 1500 miles?!?!? Lol, you sir have yourself a hobby...:thumbsup:
 

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Manual says 7-10k for normal driving habits. For first change though it should probably be at 2-3k.

Once I get my 2016 I intend to change it every 7k. I go in every 5k like clockwork for my 4.6 S197, but the Coyote can can handle more.
 

benanderson89

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I know when I get mine I'm going to do an oil change at 1000 miles in. Probably going to dump something nice like Shell Helix in there if its not used already. Might drop in a better filter, too.

Ford recommends every six months on their website, which to me seems a bit overkill. So yearly (or 10k) at my usual service after the break-in change will be fine by me - unless I become known for absolutely tanking the engine, of course! In which case I'll fall back on 7500 intervals.
 

GT Pony

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Manual says 7-10k for normal driving habits. For first change though it should probably be at 2-3k.
Or if the OLM says so first. My OLM will probably be at 0% by 3,000 miles anyway ... it was at 65% @ 1000 miles.
 

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GoBlues38

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Got my first one at 5000k and intend to stick to that schedule. :)
Sorry. The engineer in me has to call this out.

5000k = 5,000,000

5k = 5,000

And I hate being that guy calling you out.

...

And for the thread.... I did my 1st one at 5k miles. Doing 10k (oil life monitor) for each one after. MOBIL 1
 

GT Pony

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^^^ Could be 5,000 kilometers ... ie, "5,000k". Everyone knows it's not 5M miles. ;)
 

rdnbrbk

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I did my first at 1000 and doing the rest about every 4000 -4500 with that expensive ass Royal Purple full synthetic and I'm younger than some of you (37). Can't pretend I'm saving money in the long run, but I drive dusty country roads every day in the hot San Joaquin valley so I figure if it stays cleaner inside that can't be a bad thing for long term wear. Just my two cents, but then again I should be saving that two cents for my next oil change.
 

TMAN1985

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I purchased the maintenance plan at 5,000 mile intervals. I live in SW Florida, and its hot and humid 361 days a year. The oil would most likely break down faster here. Maybe it's just in my head.
 

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klumpikat

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Sorry. The engineer in me has to call this out.

5000k = 5,000,000

5k = 5,000

And I hate being that guy calling you out.
The "k" was for 'know one had noticed until you pointed it out' ;)
 

Mustm26

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In my lifetime I owned 13 new vehicles, cars and motorcycles. Way back when, I am 65, I read somewhere that your first oil change should be done at 1,000 miles regardless of the mfrs. recommendations. Oil filters do not remove very small metal particles created during manufacturing and internal parts breaking in.

Every oil pan of oil I drained at 1,000 miles looked like aluminum paint when you stirred it up with a screwdriver.

IMHO, that metal is abrasive. That is why when my GT premium reaches 1,000 miles I will have the oil and filter changed.
 

m6pwr

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In my lifetime I owned 13 new vehicles, cars and motorcycles. Way back when, I am 65, I read somewhere that your first oil change should be done at 1,000 miles regardless of the mfrs. recommendations. Oil filters do not remove very small metal particles created during manufacturing and internal parts breaking in.

Every oil pan of oil I drained at 1,000 miles looked like aluminum paint when you stirred it up with a screwdriver.

IMHO, that metal is abrasive. That is why when my GT premium reaches 1,000 miles I will have the oil and filter changed.
There are two elements that can be found in used oil which, in large concentrations, could be abrasive and thus harmful to the engine: silicon and iron. Typically, silicon in used oil is from gaskets and sealers (and in the oil itself - it's an anti-foam additive) and can be fairly elevated in new engines. It is harmless - not abrasive. Another from of silicon measured and reported in used oil analyses is silicon in the form of dirt. That is abrasive but usually pops up (with big time numbers) in older engines due to leaks somewhere in the intake tract (cracked or torn air filters, leaking old gaskets).

That leaves iron. There is a well established level of iron in engine oil at which point the oil MAY become abrasive: 150 parts per million (ppm). Actually, there is a safety margin built into that figure. Anyway, that is the limit used by fleet managers, oil analysis labs, and car mfrs themselves. You see 150 ppm iron and it's time to change the oil or shorten the oil change interval.

I've got you beat a bit - I'm 75. I started doing used oil analysis back in the 80's (on about 15 odd BMW's and some VW's over the years) and I started reading other owner's uoa's on the BITOG oil forum, and on the various owner forums which started up on the internet at the about the same time. I've never seen a uoa where any engine new or old exceeded that limit. I did see a uoa once on a VW TDI diesel (4 liter sump) used in commercial courier service in Paris. The owner changed oil at 50,000 klm (about 30,000 mi) intervals. Hard to believe I know. PPM iron in his posted uoa was 127 (no apparent damage with that drain interval - he had over 120k miles on the car).

Nor have I ever seen any passenger car oem's recommendation, nor any industry or oil mfr recommendation, or any lubricant engineer's recommendation, etc. to drain the factory fill from a modern production car at 1000 mi in order to remove harmful levels of wear metals. The only place I have ever read recommendations (actually, more like dire warnings) of the need to drain the factory fill so early is from other owners on forums like this one.

I did do a uoa on a new BMW M3 at 1200 mi because that's what the oem called for. While the service fill for the M3 was a 10w60 synthetic, it turns out the factory fill was a thin 30 weight, very low in detergent additives, and apparently a conventional (non-syn) break-in oil not designed for an extended drain. And, oh yeah, the wear metals were very low, close to single digits, as you would expect in practically virgin oil.

Here is a uoa on a '15 Mustang GT done on the factory fill at around 7500 mi.
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showpost.php?p=592635&postcount=161. It'a dynamite report. Just hope my Mustang does as well on its first drain.
 
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Asharus

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i too changed at 7500. i have lots bottles for blackstone left over from my last car (it was pushing over 100HP per cylinder and the engine had a reputation of breaking down oil on E85) and i have seen that analysis from that thread.

i felt no need to get an analysis done because i'm fully confident that the motorcraft synthetic blend is a quality oil and even at 7500 miles it has plenty of life left in it.
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