No crank, no start

[Blwnsmoke]

I bought a 2018 GT350 back in November with 1,500 miles on it. Drove it home and enjoyed it on a few brisk days before being stored in my garage. Have a 4amp battery tender on the car so battery would stay charged.

Had to take tender off to put on my truck for a few days as I don't drive that much either.

Last month, installed a radar detector and dual dash cam both hard wired (properly) into the passenger side kick panel. Everything worked as it is supposed to (on with ignition, off when ignition off) but also unplugged both as I didn't want to have any battery drain.

I did notice though that I was getting a message about the whole service power steering required.. had this happen multiple times on my 5th gen Explorer and needed the rack replaced several times. Thought that was strange but being in storage, did nothing about it.

Brings me to today, took the cover off, upgrading the stereo in the car so started prepping. Took door panels off, removed speakers (waiting for new ones to be delivered). Figured I'd start the car and pull it out since we were approaching 60 degrees and nothing.

Just says full accessory mode, push clutch to start. No clicks, no nothing. Doesn't try to start.

Googled and didn't find much. Some said possible clutch switch, possible bad battery but being on the tender for almost 3 months, I'd be surprised.

I removed the 2 add a fuses and put back to normal and that didn't change anything. Tried both key fobs. Still same service power steering (shouldn't prevent me from starting).

Any other thoughts. Down side is can't have it towed right now because collision insurance is removed for winter months being in storage so need to wait till April to get it to Ford.

Don't believe it has anything to do with the engine issues that some report.

Thanks for the long read and any other suggestions.

Ps - no codes either.

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[Leonidas514]

I'd start with a battery test myself. Yank it out and bring it to any parts store and it's free to test. Any idea what the voltage is in the battery now? A full charge is 12.5 I would say if it's less than that your Tender wasn't working. Voltage doesn't start the car, amperage does so my voltage suggestion just points you in a direction.

 

[Tank]

Original battery?

How long and how cold were the “few days” it was off the charger?
I wouldn’t try to start it before you can drive it.

I’d wait on it. If you need to do something take the battery for testing.

 

[Blwnsmoke]

Well after that really long post, I think it was a low battery.

I used the voltage settings to check the battery this afternoon and it was 11.7v. yes low but figured not low enough to even attempt to start. Been on the tender for 2 hours now and battery is at 12.5 and it started right up. No power steering warning either.

So clearly just me being a dummy. Would have thought I would have got some clicking of the starter etc.

Oh well, thanks!!

 

[Blwnsmoke]

Original battery?

How long and how cold were the “few days” it was off the charger?
I wouldn’t try to start it before you can drive it.

I’d wait on it. If you need to do something take the battery for testing.

Yes original. As mentioned it is a 2018 but it was first sold on April 28, 2020. I assume it was on the showroom floor with some ridiculous ADM. It was built May 21st, 2019 ( my bday.. as if it was meant to be). One owner, he kept the plastic on the seats, plastic on the visors and plastic on the sill plates. And it is the 1 color I would have wanted.

So although original battery to me, car is less then 1 year old under warranty. Will monitor the battery and have Ford replace it if it does it again.

Again, appreciate the quick replies and glad I think I have figured it out.

 

[Tank]

Yes original. As mentioned it is a 2018 but it was first sold on April 28, 2020. I assume it was on the showroom floor with some ridiculous ADM. It was built May 21st, 2019 ( my bday.. as if it was meant to be). One owner, he kept the plastic on the seats, plastic on the visors and plastic on the sill plates. And it is the 1 color I would have wanted.

So although original battery to me, car is less then 1 year old under warranty. Will monitor the battery and have Ford replace it if it does it again.

Again, appreciate the quick replies and glad I think I have figured it out.

Good for you! Congrats.

Like I said earlier, be wary of just starting it up just to start it up.
Don’t let it idle for extended periods of time.
Beware of prolonged running without the engine being under load.

 

[QCGoose]

Nothing more relieving than having what you originally thought could be a big problem turn out to be something minor and easily fixed.

 

[svttim]

I bought a 2018 GT350 back in November with 1,500 miles on it. Drove it home and enjoyed it on a few brisk days before being stored in my garage. Have a 4amp battery tender on the car so battery would stay charged.

Had to take tender off to put on my truck for a few days as I don't drive that much either.

Last month, installed a radar detector and dual dash cam both hard wired (properly) into the passenger side kick panel. Everything worked as it is supposed to (on with ignition, off when ignition off) but also unplugged both as I didn't want to have any battery drain.

I did notice though that I was getting a message about the whole service power steering required.. had this happen multiple times on my 5th gen Explorer and needed the rack replaced several times. Thought that was strange but being in storage, did nothing about it.

Brings me to today, took the cover off, upgrading the stereo in the car so started prepping. Took door panels off, removed speakers (waiting for new ones to be delivered). Figured I'd start the car and pull it out since we were approaching 60 degrees and nothing.

Just says full accessory mode, push clutch to start. No clicks, no nothing. Doesn't try to start.

Googled and didn't find much. Some said possible clutch switch, possible bad battery but being on the tender for almost 3 months, I'd be surprised.

I removed the 2 add a fuses and put back to normal and that didn't change anything. Tried both key fobs. Still same service power steering (shouldn't prevent me from starting).

Any other thoughts. Down side is can't have it towed right now because collision insurance is removed for winter months being in storage so need to wait till April to get it to Ford.

Don't believe it has anything to do with the engine issues that some report.

Thanks for the long read and any other suggestions.

Ps - no codes either.

My battery went bad on the Tender

 

[JLArre]

I had a similar experience this weekend with my 2016 when it wouldn’t start, took the battery to get tested and tested bad. Replaced battery drove it a round a few miles the dash voltage was reading 12.9v. Turned it on this morning and it was reading 14v then drove to the store and and back and was reading 13.7-13.9v. First time I have battery problems with it and never paid attention to the voltage reading before that so not sure if this is normal or my alternator or something else is bad. I know in older cars the voltage would go up when revving the engine. When I rev up the engine there is no change to the voltage reading. Not sure if I should be worried. Any one have experience with this?

 

[Blwnsmoke]

I had a similar experience this weekend with my 2016 when it wouldn’t start, took the battery to get tested and tested bad. Replaced battery drove it a round a few miles the dash voltage was reading 12.9v. Turned it on this morning and it was reading 14v then drove to the store and and back and was reading 13.7-13.9v. First time I have battery problems with it and never paid attention to the voltage reading before that so not sure if this is normal or my alternator or something else is bad. I know in older cars the voltage would go up when revving the engine. When I rev up the engine there is no change to the voltage reading. Not sure if I should be worried. Any one have experience with this?

Can't say for sure on the gt350 but I know majority of Ford's alternators only turn on to charge when needed and do not run 100% of the time. I was running in the 12s up to 14.1 and rpm had nothing to do with it. Alternator cycling only when needed to avoid load and reduced mpg.

 

[lenFeb]

Yes original. As mentioned it is a 2018 but it was first sold on April 28, 2020. I assume it was on the showroom floor with some ridiculous ADM. It was built May 21st, 2019

How is it possible car 2018 was build 2019???

 

[Blwnsmoke]

How is it possible car 2018 was build 2019???

Built May 21 2018, oops.

 

[Tank]

My battery went bad on the Tender

Fuck... I hoped never to hear this...

 

[svttim]

Fuck... I hoped never to hear this...

They replaced it. Motorcraft Batteries have always been excellent but, not so sure about this one

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