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Newly lowered seeking advice

PorscheHusky

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I've just lowered the car using Steeda Ultralite Linear springs with Koni Yellows. (Camber is haggered right now and will be sorted at a later time.)

I'm focused on correcting roll centre and bumpsteer. What should I be getting?
It would seem that Steeda makes everything needed but trying to sift through all that stuff, it looked like some parts were just repeats of one another and seemed confusing to me so rather than having to keep buying (and potentially getting the wrong or duplicate parts), I want to ask you lot.

So for any one of you with experience on this topic, with this similar setup, what list of parts to you recommend getting? (Provide part numbers or links please)


PS: full list of suspension parts already installed;
1. Steeda lowering springs
2. Koni Yellows
3. UPR vertical links
4. Steeda subframe alignment inserts
5. Steeda subframe support shims
6. Steeda camber plates
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PorscheHusky

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I saw that one and I've concerns about the heimjoint of the bumpsteer kit. Having had bad experiences with spherical bearings and heimjoints on daily driven car in Missouri (all year round). Do those joints fail prematurely or will they last as long or close to factory components?

The other question is, is that the tension rod? I noticed Steeda has the some other rod that isn't with this kit for some reason; is it simply not needed?

I miss my double A-Arm suspension setups... Lol
 

Norm Peterson

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I saw that one and I've concerns about the heimjoint of the bumpsteer kit. Having had bad experiences with spherical bearings and heimjoints on daily driven car in Missouri (all year round). Do those joints fail prematurely or will they last as long or close to factory components?

The other question is, is that the tension rod? I noticed Steeda has the some other rod that isn't with this kit for some reason; is it simply not needed?

I miss my double A-Arm suspension setups... Lol
Roll center height and bumpsteer are basically front-view suspension geometry effects, so the rods supplied would be the lateral links.

If you do the roll center correction, you pretty much must do the bumpsteer correction as well. But there are cases where you might do the bumpsteer correction alone (typically with less than 1/2" lowering).

I can't really speak to the durability of the rod ends in the bumpsteer kit except to note that rod ended sta-bar links seem to hold up just fine.


Norm
 

NightmareMoon

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I've had the bumpsteer and geo correcting lateral links (they're lateral links) on the car for 3 years and ~36k miles.

Did have to replace one lateral link under warranty, and Steeda customer service was helpful on that. The bumpsteer parts have been solid, no issues, but I live in Texas, so things like "road salt" and "rain" aren't a huge factor. I'm not expecting the bumpsteer parts to live forever tho.
 

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PorscheHusky

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Roll center height and bumpsteer are basically front-view suspension geometry effects, so the rods supplied would be the lateral links.

If you do the roll center correction, you pretty much must do the bumpsteer correction as well. But there are cases where you might do the bumpsteer correction alone (typically with less than 1/2" lowering).

I can't really speak to the durability of the rod ends in the bumpsteer kit except to note that rod ended sta-bar links seem to hold up just fine.


Norm
Ok, so what I'm understanding is go ahead and get this https://www.steeda.com/steeda-555-4915-s550-roll-center--bumpsteer-correction-kit bumpsteer kit with the rods.

In that case, are these https://www.steeda.com/steeda-555-4907-s550-front-tension-link even necessary; I can do just fine without them?



I've had the bumpsteer and geo correcting lateral links (they're lateral links) on the car for 3 years and ~36k miles.

Did have to replace one lateral link under warranty, and Steeda customer service was helpful on that. The bumpsteer parts have been solid, no issues, but I live in Texas, so things like "road salt" and "rain" aren't a huge factor. I'm not expecting the bumpsteer parts to live forever tho.
I miss Texas lol (from Killeen) but yeah, the northern states, especially in the rust belt, are hard on cars with 'racecar parts'. My old 964 and 944, I ran bearings in place of the bushes and after just 1.4 winters of driving, the joints rusted out and had so much play in them, it was awful.
Handling was razor sharp though, up until the balls rusted. But if you managed to get 3yrs before needing to replace them, that's pretty impressive for exposed joints.
 

NightmareMoon

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Ok, so what I'm understanding is go ahead and get this https://www.steeda.com/steeda-555-4915-s550-roll-center--bumpsteer-correction-kit bumpsteer kit with the rods.

In that case, are these https://www.steeda.com/steeda-555-4907-s550-front-tension-link even necessary; I can do just fine without them?




I miss Texas lol (from Killeen) but yeah, the northern states, especially in the rust belt, are hard on cars with 'racecar parts'. My old 964 and 944, I ran bearings in place of the bushes and after just 1.4 winters of driving, the joints rusted out and had so much play in them, it was awful.
Handling was razor sharp though, up until the balls rusted. But if you managed to get 3yrs before needing to replace them, that's pretty impressive for exposed joints.
The tension links eliminate one rubber bushing on a base car (I think). If you have a PP car, I think you already have a perfectly good tension link. The tension link isn't a question related to lowering geometry (that's the lateral link included in the other kit)
 
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PorscheHusky

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The tension links eliminate one rubber bushing on a base car (I think). If you have a PP car, I think you already have a perfectly good tension link. The tension link isn't a question related to lowering geometry (that's the lateral link included in the other kit)
Ohh! Thanks for clarifying! And no I don't have a PP model, it's just a base V6
 

NightmareMoon

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Ohh! Thanks for clarifying! And no I don't have a PP model, it's just a base V6
Then the tension link may sharpen your front toe a little, but it might be hard to notice. The deflector plates on them will be basically useless if you don't have a PP undertray and PP brake rotors which cool from the inside. The base brakes cool from the outside.
 
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PorscheHusky

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Then the tension link may sharpen your front toe a little, but it might be hard to notice. The deflector plates on them will be basically useless if you don't have a PP undertray and PP brake rotors which cool from the inside. The base brakes cool from the outside.
I noticed that. I may build an under tray so long as SCCA doesn't ding me for pts but that air deflector is unfortunately the only one they sell. I guess their mode of thinking is one size fits all so make it for PP equipped cars while making it work for all others. 🤔

But yeah, if the tension link isn't needed for my use case (daily car, SCCA and 10/10s weekend fun then drive it home) then I thank you for clarifying that and stopping me from overbuying!

I've got rear toe links from Whiteline on the way and steeda rear 12mm shock mounts (so I can finally install the Koni Yellows in the rear).

Is there anything else you'd recommend I look into getting?

I know I'll need to figure out something with camber in the rear since it's maxed out and still has too much lean for daily driving.
 

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NightmareMoon

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I noticed that. I may build an under tray so long as SCCA doesn't ding me for pts but that air deflector is unfortunately the only one they sell. I guess their mode of thinking is one size fits all so make it for PP equipped cars while making it work for all others. 🤔

But yeah, if the tension link isn't needed for my use case (daily car, SCCA and 10/10s weekend fun then drive it home) then I thank you for clarifying that and stopping me from overbuying!

I've got rear toe links from Whiteline on the way and steeda rear 12mm shock mounts (so I can finally install the Koni Yellows in the rear).

Is there anything else you'd recommend I look into getting?

I know I'll need to figure out something with camber in the rear since it's maxed out and still has too much lean for daily driving.
What SCCA events are you running? The air deflectors unbolt, so there's that.

I have a PP car and what I like may not be money worth spending for others. My car is setup for SCCA Solo (CAMC class).
 
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PorscheHusky

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What SCCA events are you running? The air deflectors unbolt, so there's that.

I have a PP car and what I like may not be money worth spending for others. My car is setup for SCCA Solo (CAMC class).
Sorry about that delay!
I went ahead and bout them (bumpsteer kit with that arm, the rear toe arms from Whiteline and the rear shock mounts from Steeda)

And Midwest put me in T2. So I'm under the impression I can't do too much to the car without risk of being penalized or thrown into another class.

As for the advice I asked of you, I'm just looking for a starting point and willing to try other people's setups and tune from there.
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