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Need help with modified used GT purchase

The Watchman

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I was being factious lol of course I have plenty of money to repair this vehicle. The tests leak down/pressure tests all came back good, got it up on the lift and underneath looks damn near new, I'm completely confident that this is a great buy. I'm not some 18 year old kid lol, I'm buying it as a fun around town on some back roads on the weekends car, I already have a GT500 that it'll be stored right next too....I understand what the added stress of adding a blower to a stock motor does lol.....I did ask in the beginning if anyone (if it checks out good) would have any qualms with a stock motor and a Roush Stage 2, and it was a resounding no....so it comes down too, can the internals handle a stage 2 Roush if the tests come back good, which they did?
@ZLwhat if you are in a position to fork out $8-10k for parts/repairs if/when something breaks, then you are far better off than I was.

As I previously stated, my MT82 bit the dust with under 6k on the odo. When my trans died, I had the following options:

1. Fight a losing battle with the stealer...I mean dealer I bought it from to replace/repair the trans.
2. Buy another stock MT82 replacement.
3. Wait 10 weeks for a Calimer Stage 3 and pay $5000+
4. Tremec T56 Magnum Swap for $8000+

When my gearbox turned into metallic spaghetti, I was devastated. My lovely wife is the one who came to my rescue and she actually came up with a brilliant plan for the $$$ to replace.

We went with option #4 and now the whip is a completely different animal with the Tremec. Shortly after I bought the car I knew I would eventually upgrade/replace the transmission.

I had zero inkling that would be just over a year after I kopped the car...

It all worked out in the end, but had I known the tranny would die after I put 3000 miles on the car I may have went a different direction.

Finally, your GT500, whether its s197 or s550 does not have mere stock internals. Those cars roll off the factory line with blowers installed and the internals of the motor are specifically designed for forced induction. Just FYI
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ZLwhat

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@ZLwhat if you are in a position to fork out $8-10k for parts/repairs if/when something breaks, then you are far better off than I was.

As I previously stated, my MT82 bit the dust with under 6k on the odo. When my trans died, I had the following options:

1. Fight a losing battle with the stealer...I mean dealer I bought it from to replace/repair the trans.
2. Buy another stock MT82 replacement.
3. Wait 10 weeks for a Calimer Stage 3 and pay $5000+
4. Tremec T56 Magnum Swap for $8000+

When my gearbox turned into metallic spaghetti, I was devastated. My lovely wife is the one who came to my rescue and she actually came up with a brilliant plan for the $$$ to replace.

We went with option #4 and now the whip is a completely different animal with the Tremec. Shortly after I bought the car I knew I would eventually upgrade/replace the transmission.

I had zero inkling that would be just over a year after I kopped the car...

It all worked out in the end, but had I known the tranny would die after I put 3000 miles on the car I may have went a different direction.

Finally, your GT500, whether its s197 or s550 does not have mere stock internals. Those cars roll off the factory line with blowers installed and the internals of the motor are specifically designed for forced induction. Just FYI
Jesus christ man you need to start including a "TLDR" for all of your posts.
 

robvas

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4. Tremec T56 Magnum Swap for $8000+

When my gearbox turned into metallic spaghetti, I was devastated. My lovely wife is the one who came to my rescue and she actually came up with a brilliant plan for the $$$ to replace.

We went with option #4 and now the whip is a completely different animal with the Tremec. Shortly after I bought the car I knew I would eventually upgrade/replace the transmission.
Did you change the rear gears when you put in the T56?
 

The Watchman

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Did you change the rear gears when you put in the T56?
I’m assuming you are asking about rear differential gears…No

3.55 and we actually went with the 2.66 Tremec gear set.

3.55 rears and 2.66 gear set is same exact setup as s197 GT500, only difference is we are running the t56 Magnum instead of TR 6060

T56 Magnum and TR 6060 are essentially same gearbox only difference is t56 has beefed up internals.

FWIW, I thought the 2.66 gear set combined with 3.55 rears would be too much room…however, after driving the whip after install and custom tune I found the driving experience to be far superior than before…

First gear is now actually usable on street

Here is my most current build sheet:

Katzkin "Mahogany" Leather Seats
Stainless Works 1 7/8 LTH
Borla Switchfire Res Delete
Boundary Billet OPG and CS
Mishimoto Coolant Expansion Tank
FIC 1000 Injectors
Griptech 2.8 Pulley
Fore Innovations Level 2 Return Style Dual PumpFuel System
FI Interchiller Stage 2 Kit
Pierburg CWA 400 IC Pump
McCleod RXT 1000 Clutch
T56 Magnum XL Transmission
Performance Driveline Engineering 3.5 in Aluminum Driveshaft
Reische 170 Degree Thermostat
Brisk Iridium Spark Plugs
Differential Lockout Kit
BMR Jacking Rails
BMR Cradle Busing Lockout Kit Level 2
Rohana RFX10 20' Wheels
Nitto 555G2 Front and Rear - 20x10 front - 20x11 rear

Car made 803 rwhp and 760 torque on E85
 

The Watchman

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@robvas car is insanely "torquey" and the 3.55 rears and 2.66 Tremec pair perfectly for a car wit dis much powa...

IMG_6960.jpeg


IMG_7103.jpeg
 
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ZLwhat

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Ok fellas need your first bit of advice on this new to me car. It has what I believe to be is a catch can but I can’t for the life of me unscrew it to look inside or empty it. I will post pictures soon of what I’m talking about just figured I’d give you all an hour to talk shit about the purchase again before I posted them. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
 
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ZLwhat

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image.jpg


Here is what I’m talking about specifically.
 
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ZLwhat

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Lefty Loosey - Righty Tighty
It unscrews at the o-ring
Might take a little effort if it has been on there for a while...
well that explains it.
 

coffeehound

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Lefty Loosey - Righty Tighty
It unscrews at the o-ring
Might take a little effort if it has been on there for a while...
This 100%
 

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robvas

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There's probably almost nothing in there

i would remove it and just stick a breather in place of the oil cap

Or replace it with the UPR/Motion vented catch can if you want to spend some money
 
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ZLwhat

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Well boys, either way with a wrench or my hands there is no way i can unscrew it, not sure if it's seized or if the guy that wanted to blow up the motor before me overtightened it.
 

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robvas

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Well boys, either way with a wrench or my hands there is no way i can unscrew it, not sure if it's seized or if the guy that wanted to blow up the motor before me overtightened it.
One hand on the part that says JLT the other part on the bottom knurled part? Should come right apart.
 
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ZLwhat

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